The English Primrose & Basset Hound Bunny is a stunning example of heirloom-quality amigurumi that celebrates the charm of a classic British cottage garden. This character features a gentle oatmeal-toned bunny dressed in a sophisticated ensemble: a cream A-line dress adorned with hand-embroidered yellow primroses, a rich chocolate-brown cardigan featuring detailed Basset Hound motifs, and a matching ruffled bonnet. To achieve the professional, high-definition finish seen in the photographs, it is essential to buy premium merino wool or a high-twist cotton-merino blend that offers superior stitch definition. When you purchase specialized knitting kits and shop for professional needles from a reputable online yarn store, the intricate details of the dog’s long ears and the delicate flower petals will remain crisp and perfectly defined. This project is a rewarding journey for any textile artist looking to order luxury craft supplies and invest their creative energy into a piece that will be cherished for many generations as a centerpiece of any high-end doll collection.

Please note: I strive for accuracy in every pattern, but occasional errors can happen. Thank you for understanding and for enjoying my designs.

Required Materials and Technical Standards

Selecting the correct fibers and tools is the most critical stage of the process to ensure your finished work mirrors the professional aesthetic of the reference image. This project is optimized for DK (Double Knitting) weight yarn, which provides the necessary structural integrity for the bunny’s standing pose while allowing for fine detail in the multi-layered wardrobe. Using a needle size slightly smaller than the yarn manufacturer suggests is a professional secret for creating a dense, opaque fabric that keeps the internal fiberfill completely concealed.

• Main Bunny Body: Approximately 100g of DK weight wool in Oatmeal or Warm Tan. A natural, high-quality wool provides a soft, matte finish characteristic of boutique art dolls.
• Wardrobe Palette:
  • Cream/Off-White: 75g for the dress and ruffled bonnet.
  • Chocolate Brown: 50g for the cardigan and Mary Jane shoes.
  • Golden Yellow: 20g for the primrose petals and Basset Hound markings.
• Embroidery and Detail Yarns:
  • Forest Green: 15g for primrose stems and leaves.
  • Charcoal Black: 10g for eyes, nose, and dog outlines.
  • Soft White: 15g for the Basset Hound muzzle and sock details.
  • Silver Grey: 10g for the magnifying glass frame.
• Needle Sizes: US Size 2 (2.75mm) for the bunny body and limbs to ensure a tight gauge; US Size 3 (3.25mm) circular or straight needles for the clothing components.
• Safety Eyes: One pair of 9mm deep black safety eyes for the main bunny; 4mm black beads or embroidery thread for the tiny Basset Hound puppy.
• Stuffing: High-grade hypoallergenic polyester fiberfill (approx. 300g).
• Notions: A sharp tapestry needle, fine embroidery needles, stitch markers, and two tiny 4mm brown buttons for the shoes.

Structural Gauge and Tension Control

Consistency in your tension is what transforms a simple project into a museum-quality piece. For the bunny skin, aim for a gauge of approximately 26 stitches and 34 rows per 4 inches (10 cm) in stockinette stitch using the 2.75mm needles. The fabric should feel solid and have very little “give” when stretched. The clothing is designed to fit snugly over the stuffed form; therefore, checking the fit of the dress and cardigan against the bunny’s torso as you progress is highly recommended to ensure the proportions match the reference image perfectly.

If you find your knitting is naturally loose, consider dropping down half a needle size to maintain the crisp silhouette of the character. Maintain an even gauge throughout, especially when transitioning between the body and the clothing items. The standing stability of the bunny depends on a firm, dense fabric that resists stretching once stuffed with the fiberfill.

Foundation: Constructing the Standing Legs

The construction begins at the base of the feet and moves upward to ensure the bunny has the stability needed for its upright standing posture. We work the legs as seamless tubes to avoid bulky side seams that would detract from the professional finish. This bunny is designed with long, slender limbs that look elegant and realistic when posed.

Right Leg Architecture

Using the oatmeal-colored yarn and 2.75mm needles, cast on 12 stitches. Distribute them evenly across your needles and join for working in the round, ensuring the stitches are not twisted. Place a marker at the start of the round to track your progression through the row counts.

1. Round 1: Knit into the front and back (kfb) of every stitch around (24 sts).
2. Round 2: Perform a sequence of *Knit 2, kfb* and repeat from * to the end of the round (32 sts).
3. Rounds 3-10: Knit every stitch across the next eight rounds. This builds the rounded base and the vertical sides of the foot. Maintain a firm tension here.
4. Round 11 (Instep Shaping): Knit 12, then perform the decrease (knit 2 together – k2tog) 4 times in succession, and finish by knitting the remaining 12 stitches (28 sts). This shaping creates the instep of the rabbit’s foot.
5. Round 12: Knit 10, perform (k2tog) 4 times again, and finish with 10 knit stitches (24 sts).
6. Round 13: Knit all stitches around the round. This stabilizes the ankle join.
7. Rounds 14-50: Continue in stockinette stitch (knit every round) until the leg measures roughly 6 inches (15 cm) from the sole. Ensure your tension remains extremely consistent to avoid any visible “jog” in the stitches.

Stuff the foot area very firmly, using your fingers to shape a rounded toe and a distinct heel. The leg should be stuffed moderately as you move upward to allow for a natural flexibility at the hip join. Leave these stitches on a holder or spare needle. Repeat the exact instructions provided for the right leg to create the left leg. After reaching Round 50 on the second leg, do not break the yarn, as this working yarn will be used to initiate the joining process for the torso in the next section.

Sculpting the Plump Torso and Rounded Hips

Joining the legs correctly is vital for the bunny’s posture and the width of the hips. Place the legs side-by-side with the toes pointing forward. We will create a bridge of stitches between the legs to give her the wide, rounded hips required for the cream dress to sit elegantly. This part must be stuffed very firmly to prevent the character from leaning or sagging over time.

Round 51 (The Joining Round): Knit across the 24 stitches of the left leg, cast on 4 stitches for the center gap, knit across the 24 stitches of the right leg, and cast on another 4 stitches for the back gap (56 sts total). Join to work in a large circle.

• Rounds 52-70: Knit every stitch in the round for nineteen rounds. This section establishes the seat and lower abdomen. Maintain a firm tension to ensure the fabric is smooth and dense.
• Round 71: Perform a decrease round by knitting *12, k2tog* and repeat around (52 sts).
• Rounds 72-76: Knit all stitches around without further decreases.
• Round 77: *Knit 11, k2tog* and repeat around (48 sts).
• Rounds 78-82: Knit all stitches around. At this stage, begin stuffing the lower body firmly. Focus on pushing the stuffing toward the sides to define the rounded hip silhouette seen in the image.
• Round 83: *Knit 6, k2tog* repeat around (42 sts).
• Rounds 84-88: Knit all stitches around.
• Round 89: *Knit 5, k2tog* repeat around (36 sts).
• Round 90: Knit all stitches around.
• Round 91: *Knit 4, k2tog* repeat around (30 sts).
• Round 92: *Knit 3, k2tog* repeat around (24 sts). This forms the narrow neck area. Do not bind off, as the head is worked directly from these stitches to ensure structural strength and prevent a wobbly head.

Shaping the Bunny Head and Facial Sculpting

The head requires specific increases to define the broad, sweet cheeks and the slightly tapered bridge of the nose characteristic of this heirloom design. This part must be stuffed very firmly to maintain its shape over time, especially since the ruffled bonnet will be placed on top. The head and body are worked as one piece in this style to eliminate the need for a neck seam.

The Snout and Face Construction

1. Round 93: *Knit 2, make 1 stitch (m1)* repeat around (32 sts).
2. Round 94: *Knit 3, m1* repeat around (40 sts).
3. Round 95: *Knit 4, m1* repeat around (48 sts).
4. Round 96: *Knit 5, m1* repeat around (56 sts).
5. Round 97: *Knit 6, m1* repeat around (64 sts). Establish this as the widest part of the face.
6. Rounds 98-118: Knit every stitch in stockinette straight for twenty-one rounds. This vertical growth creates the main volume of the face and forehead. It should look like a rounded, slightly elongated dome.

Position the 9mm safety eyes between rounds 108 and 109, leaving approximately 12 stitches between them. Ensure they are level and aligned with the center of the feet for a balanced, thoughtful gaze. Secure the backings firmly before proceeding with the closing rounds.

Closing the Crown

• Round 119: *Knit 6, k2tog* repeat around (56 sts).
• Round 120: Knit all stitches. This round stabilizes the decrease.
• Round 121: *Knit 5, k2tog* repeat around (48 sts).
• Round 122: *Knit 4, k2tog* repeat around (40 sts).
• Round 123: *Knit 3, k2tog* repeat around (32 sts).
• Round 124: *Knit 2, k2tog* repeat around (24 sts).
• Round 125: *Knit 1, k2tog* repeat around (16 sts).
• Round 126: k2tog around until 8 stitches remain.

Begin stuffing the head very firmly at this point. Focus on creating symmetrical cheeks and a smooth forehead. Use small amounts of stuffing at a time to avoid lumps. Break the yarn, leave a long tail, thread through the remaining stitches, pull tight to close, and weave in the end securely inside the head.

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Long Upright Ears and Slender Arms

Detailed Ears (Make 2)

The ears stand tall and alert. They are worked flat to provide a slightly concave shape that mimics the internal ear flap. The ears are a defining feature, and their upright nature is essential for the character’s inquisitive expression. Use the oatmeal yarn and the 3.0mm needles.

1. Cast on 12 stitches. Work flat on two needles.
2. Rows 1-50: Work in stockinette stitch (Knit RS, Purl WS). This creates a long rectangle.
3. Row 51: k2tog, knit to last 2 stitches, ssk (10 sts).
4. Row 52: Purl all stitches.
5. Row 53: k2tog, knit to last 2 stitches, ssk (8 sts).
6. Row 54: Purl all stitches.
7. Row 55: k2tog, knit to last 2 stitches, ssk (6 sts).
8. Bind off all stitches. Fold the bottom edge of the ear slightly in half to create depth and sew them to the top of the head at Round 122, spacing them about 4 stitches apart.

Slender Arm Construction (Make 2)

The arms should be stuffed lighter than the legs so they can rest naturally at the bunny’s side or hold the magnifying glass. Join oatmeal yarn in the round on 2.75mm needles.

1. Cast on 10 stitches. Join in the round.
2. Rounds 1-42: Knit all stitches in stockinette for forty-two rounds. Maintain a consistent gauge to match the legs.
3. Round 43: *Knit 3, k2tog* repeat across (8 sts).
4. Round 44: k2tog around (4 sts).
5. Break the yarn and pull through the remaining stitches. Stuff the hand area (bottom) firmly and the upper arm very lightly. Sew the arms to the body just below the neck line at Round 92.

The Cream English Primrose Dress

This dress features a classic A-line silhouette with intricate floral embroidery at the hem. The primroses are the artistic centerpiece of the garment and are added after the base knitting is complete. We use the Cream yarn and 3.25mm circular needles for a beautiful drape.

Knitting the Dress Skirt

1. Cast on 84 stitches in Cream. Join in the round.
2. Rounds 1-6: Knit all stitches. This establishes a clean, weighted hem that won’t roll.
3. Rounds 7-35: Continue in stockinette stitch. This builds the main length of the skirt, reaching mid-calf on the rabbit.
4. Round 36 (Waist Shaping): *Knit 8, k2tog* repeat around (72 sts).
5. Round 37: *Knit 4, k2tog* repeat around (60 sts).
6. Round 38: *Knit 3, k2tog* repeat around (48 sts). This gathers the waist snugly.
7. Bind off all stitches loosely. Pick up 48 stitches along the bound-off waist and work the bodice upward in stockinette for 12 rounds before binding off for armholes. Secure the dress on the bunny with hidden stitches.

Primrose Embroidery Guide

The flowers are positioned in a row around the entire circumference of the skirt hem. Each flower head is approximately 2 cm wide. Use a fine embroidery needle, golden yellow wool for petals, and forest green thread for the stems.

• The Stems: Using a stem stitch with green yarn, create short vertical stalks rising from the hem. Add two small “lazy daisy” loops on either side of the stem for leaves.
• The Petals: Use the yellow yarn to create five small teardrop-shaped loops radiating from a central point. Each loop should be secured with a tiny anchoring stitch at the tip.
• The Centers: In the center of each flower, create a single orange French knot to provide depth. Space these motifs approximately 1.5 inches apart around the entire skirt hem.

The Chocolate Basset Hound Cardigan

The cardigan is a standout piece of the character’s wardrobe, worked flat in rich chocolate-brown wool. It features a cropped silhouette and high-relief Basset Hound facial embroidery on the front panels.

Cardigan Body and Sleeves

Using the brown yarn and 3.25mm needles, cast on 40 stitches. We work this piece flat from the top down.

1. Rows 1-4: *Knit 1, Purl 1* ribbing for the collar.
2. Row 5 (RS): Knit 6 (front), m1, k1 (raglan), m1, k8 (sleeve), m1, k1 (raglan), m1, k10 (back), m1, k1 (raglan), m1, k8 (sleeve), m1, k1 (raglan), m1, k6 (front).
3. Row 6 (WS): Purl all stitches.
4. Continue increasing at the raglan points every RS row until the piece measures 2.5 inches (6 cm) from the collar.
5. Separate for Sleeves: Place sleeve stitches on scrap yarn. Join the front and back panels to continue the body for 2.5 more inches. Finish with 4 rows of garter stitch and bind off.
6. Sleeves: Pick up the 16 stitches from the scrap yarn. Knit in the round for 18 rounds. Finish with a 3-row garter cuff.

Basset Hound Embroidery Detail

On each front panel of the chocolate cardigan, use the yellow, white, and charcoal yarns. Embroider a tiny silhouette of a Basset Hound head using a satin stitch for the main face. Use white for the muzzle, brown for the long drooping ears, and charcoal for the nose and eyes. This level of detail is essential for a 100% accurate match to the image theme. Add two tiny brown buttons to the front edge to finish the look.

The Ruffled Bonnet and Brown Mary Janes

The accessories provide the finishing touches to the character’s personality. The bonnet frames the face with a warm, ruffled hug, while the shoes ground the outfit in a classic doll aesthetic. We use the cream yarn for the hat and dark chocolate brown for the footwear.

Bonnet Construction

Using the Cream yarn and 3.25mm needles, cast on 48 stitches. We work this piece flat to allow for the ruffle.

1. Rows 1-4: Knit every row.
2. Row 5 (Ruffle Increase): *Kfb* in every stitch across (96 sts).
3. Rows 6-10: Work in stockinette stitch. This creates the voluminous ruffle.
4. Row 11 (Ruffle Decrease): *K2tog* across (48 sts).
5. Continue in stockinette for 3 inches.
6. Shape Crown: Perform decreases on RS rows (K6, k2tog around, then K5, k2tog, etc.) until 10 stitches remain. Bind off.
7. Finishing: Sew the back seam of the bonnet. Place the bonnet over the bunny’s head, allowing the ears to stand up behind the ruffle.

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Brown Mary Jane Shoes (Make 2)

These shoes are separate items that fit over the oatmeal feet. Use the chocolate brown yarn and 3.0mm needles.

1. Cast on 20 stitches. Join in the round.
2. Rnd 1-4: Knit all stitches. This forms the side of the shoe.
3. Round 5: k7, (k2tog) 3 times, k7 (17 sts). This shapes the rounded toe box.
4. Round 6: Bind off 17 stitches loosely.
5. The Strap: Pick up 10 stitches across the top opening of the shoe and bind off immediately to create the functional strap. Sew a tiny 4mm brown button to the side of the strap. Slip onto the bunny’s feet.

Accessories: Magnifying Glass and Cushion

The Knitted Magnifying Glass

This accessory is a conversation starter. Use the silver grey and chocolate brown yarn.

• The Frame: Using silver yarn, knit a 4-inch I-cord over 3 stitches. Join the ends to form a circle.
• The Handle: Using brown yarn, pick up 4 stitches from the join of the circle. Knit a 1.5-inch tube in stockinette. Round off the end and sew closed.
• Assembly: Position the magnifying glass next to the bunny as if she is inspecting a primrose.

The Heirloom Knitted Cushion

This prop provides the bunny with a comfortable place to rest. Use the cream yarn.

1. Cast on 24 stitches. Work flat in stockinette stitch for 10 inches.
2. Fold the piece in half and sew two side seams.
3. Stuff lightly with fiberfill and sew the final seam closed.
4. Finishing: Use the embroidery needles to add tiny yellow primrose buds to the corners of the cushion for a coordinated look.

The Miniature 3D Basset Hound Companion

This tiny pet perches on the cushion or next to the bunny and requires very careful assembly to achieve its realistic sitting posture. It is worked in one piece for the head and body with color changes to create the patches.

1. Using White yarn, cast on 6 stitches in the round. kfb into every stitch (12).
2. Knit 12 rounds for the body, incorporating Brown patches on the sides and back using the intarsia method.
3. Round 13: *Knit 1, k2tog* around (8). Stuff the body firmly into a plump oval.
4. Round 14: k2tog around (4). Pull through to close for the head.
5. The Ears: Knit two long, thin rectangles in brown (4 sts x 8 rows) and sew them to the sides of the head so they hang down low.
6. Details: Use black thread to embroider two tiny dots for the eyes and a small nose. Position the dog sitting next to the bunny’s feet.

Final Assembly and Facial Detailing

The personality of your English Primrose & Basset Hound Bunny emerges during the final assembly. Begin by ensuring the head is perfectly aligned with the center of the chest. Use dark charcoal embroidery thread to stitch a small “Y” shape for the nose and mouth centered exactly between the safety eyes. The mouth should be positioned low on the face to create a sweet, inquisitive expression. Use a single stitch of white yarn at the outer edge of each safety eye to create a “sparkle” effect.

Using a cotton swab, apply a very small amount of actual pink cosmetic blush to the bunny’s cheeks in a circular motion. This adds a youthful, healthy glow that mimics the soft lighting in the photo perfectly. Dress the bunny in the cream dress first, then layer the chocolate cardigan over the top. Slip the brown shoes onto the feet and position the ruffled bonnet between her ears. Finally, arrange the cushion, magnifying glass, and Basset Hound companion as shown. Check all seams and hide any loose yarn ends deep inside the body stuffing to ensure a professional, clean finish.

Detailed Cleaning and Care Guidelines

Because this project features intricate embroidery, multi-layered clothing, and delicate 3D appliques, proper care is essential to preserve its heirloom quality. This bunny is an art doll intended for display rather than rough play, and should be handled with care to prevent pilling of the merino fibers and snagging of the delicate flower petals. Regular maintenance will ensure she remains as beautiful as the day you finished her.

Hand washing is the only recommended method for this character. Fill a clean basin with lukewarm water and add a small amount of a gentle detergent designed specifically for wool or fine fibers. Submerge the bunny slowly, avoiding any aggressive scrubbing or agitation. Do not scrub the embroidered primroses on the dress or the dog motif on the cardigan, as this can distort the stitches or cause the vibrant yellow colors to bleed. Let the doll soak for approximately 15 minutes, then rinse thoroughly with cool water until the water runs clear.

To dry, place the bunny between two clean, thick towels and press down gently to remove excess moisture. Never wring or twist the doll, as this will distort the internal fiberfill and ruin the shape of the head and the A-line skirt. Lay flat on a drying rack in a well-ventilated area away from direct sunlight, which can fade the vibrant brown and cream colors over time. You can use a fabric softener in the final rinse if you wish to keep the skin and cardigan feeling exceptionally soft. Once dry, you may need to gently massage the stuffing with your fingers to restore her original plump shape and use a small needle to “fluff” the primrose petals back into their rounded form.

If the bunny is intended for long-term display, keep her in a dust-free environment, such as a glass-fronted cabinet. Avoid placing her in direct sunlight for extended periods, as natural wool can be sensitive to UV rays. By following these maintenance steps, your English Primrose & Basset Hound Bunny will remain a cherished masterpiece for many years to come. Every stitch in the chocolate cardigan and every embroidered petal on the cream skirt contributes to a narrative of patience and artistic expression. Enjoy the process of bringing this British-inspired rabbit to life!

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