The Hydrangea Hill Bunny is an exquisite artisan project that blends the soft textures of springtime flora with the timeless appeal of classic amigurumi. This character features a sophisticated tan-toned rabbit base, dressed in a refreshing mint-green sundress that serves as a canvas for a stunning 3×3 grid of three-dimensional hydrangea blossoms. To ensure your project has the high-definition quality seen in professional displays, it is essential to buy premium cotton amigurumi yarn and purchase ergonomic crochet hooks that offer comfort during long sessions. You can order high-quality crochet supplies, including high-density polyester fiberfill and 12mm safety eyes, through trusted online platforms like Amazon to maintain the structural integrity of your doll. This project represents a significant investment of your creative time, resulting in a cherished heirloom that showcases advanced skills in colorwork, texture building, and miniature sculpting. Accompanied by a tiny koala companion and a detailed gingham picnic set, this bunny radiates a narrative of a peaceful afternoon on a floral hillside.

Please note: I strive for accuracy in every pattern, but occasional errors can happen. Thank you for understanding and for enjoying my designs.

Detailed Material List and Preparation

Achieving the professional aesthetic of the Hydrangea Hill Bunny requires careful attention to material selection. The consistency of your yarn weight is the most critical factor in ensuring that the multi-layered clothing fits the body correctly. Using a hook size slightly smaller than the yarn manufacturer suggests will help create a dense, gap-free fabric that keeps the fiberfill completely hidden. It is best to select yarns that have a smooth, mercerized finish to make the hydrangea clusters pop.

• Main Body Yarn: Tan or Beige cotton (approx. 150g). A Sport weight or light DK weight is ideal.
• Sundress Yarn: Mint Green or Seafoam Green (approx. 60g).
• Hydrangea Cluster Yarn: Small amounts of Sky Blue and Pale Lavender.
• Puffy Sleeves Yarn: Pure White cotton (approx. 30g).
• Beret & Shoes Yarn: Cornflower Blue and Violet (approx. 40g).
• Accessories: Tan for the basket, Blue and White for the gingham blanket, and Grey for the koala companion.
• Crochet Hooks: A 2.25mm hook for the main figures and miniature accessories; a 2.75mm hook for the clothing to allow for a slightly softer, more natural drape.
• Safety Eyes: 12mm black safety eyes for the rabbit; 4mm eyes or black thread for the koala.
• Stuffing: Premium grade, anti-allergenic polyester fiberfill with high rebound.
• Notions: Long tapestry needle for limb attachment, sharp embroidery needle, stitch markers, and pink cosmetic blush for the cheeks.

Standard Abbreviations and Tension Guide

The instructions utilize standard United States terminology. Accuracy in stitch placement and maintaining even tension are the foundations for ensuring that the garments fit the bunny’s body perfectly. If your tension tends to be naturally loose, consider moving down half a hook size for the head and limbs to avoid gaps. This character is designed to sit with stability, so firm stuffing in the lower torso and feet is paramount.

• MR: Magic Ring (the foundation for all circular work).
• sc: Single crochet.
• inc: Increase (work two single crochets into the same stitch).
• dec: Invisible decrease (work through the front loops only to reduce bulk).
• hdc: Half double crochet.
• dc: Double crochet.
• sl st: Slip stitch.
• ch: Chain stitch.
• BLO: Back loops only (used for adding texture or garment layers).
• FLO: Front loops only.
• st(s): Stitch or stitches.
• PC: Popcorn stitch (Work 4 dc in the same stitch, remove hook, insert into first dc, pull loop through).

Phase 1: The Sculpted Bunny Head

The head is designed as a large, rounded sphere with subtle tapering toward the muzzle to provide a gentle, curious expression. Use the Tan yarn and the 2.25mm hook. Work in continuous spirals without joining rounds. Use a stitch marker to track the beginning of each round to avoid errors in the shaping of the cheeks. Firm stuffing is essential here to provide a smooth base for facial features.

1. Round 1: Start with a MR and place 6 sc into the ring. (6)
2. Round 2: Work 1 inc in every stitch around the circle to double the count. (12)
3. Round 3: Perform a sequence of *1 sc, 1 inc* repeated 6 times. (18)
4. Round 4: Perform a sequence of *2 sc, 1 inc* repeated 6 times. (24)
5. Round 5: Perform a sequence of *3 sc, 1 inc* repeated 6 times. (30)
6. Round 6: Perform a sequence of *4 sc, 1 inc* repeated 6 times. (36)
7. Round 7: Perform a sequence of *5 sc, 1 inc* repeated 6 times. (42)
8. Round 8: Perform a sequence of *6 sc, 1 inc* repeated 6 times. (48)
9. Round 9: Perform a sequence of *7 sc, 1 inc* repeated 6 times. (54)
10. Round 10: Perform a sequence of *8 sc, 1 inc* repeated 6 times. (60)
11. Round 11: Perform a sequence of *9 sc, 1 inc* repeated 6 times. (66)
12. Rounds 12-25: Work 1 sc in each of the 66 stitches around. This long section builds the vertical height of the face and creates the placement area for the expressive eyes. (66)
13. Round 26: Perform a sequence of *9 sc, 1 dec* repeated 6 times. (60)
14. Round 27: Perform a sequence of *8 sc, 1 dec* repeated 6 times. (54)
15. Round 28: Perform a sequence of *7 sc, 1 dec* repeated 6 times. (48)
16. Placement: Insert the 12mm safety eyes between rounds 18 and 19, with approximately 12 stitches of space between them. Ensure they are perfectly level.
17. Round 29: Perform a sequence of *6 sc, 1 dec* repeat 6 times. (42)
18. Round 30: Perform a sequence of *5 sc, 1 dec* repeat 6 times. (36)
19. Stuffing: Begin stuffing the head firmly. Focus on pushing the fiberfill toward the sides to define the rounded cheeks seen in the image.
20. Round 31: Perform a sequence of *4 sc, 1 dec* repeat 6 times. (30)
21. Round 32: Perform a sequence of *3 sc, 1 dec* repeat 6 times. (24)
22. Round 33: Perform a sequence of *2 sc, 1 dec* repeat 6 times. (18) Finish stuffing the head to a firm consistency.
23. Round 34: (1 sc, 1 dec) repeat 6 times. (12)
24. Round 35: 6 dec to close. (6) Fasten off and leave a tail to weave through the front loops.

Facial Embroidery and Muzzle Sculpting

To achieve the soulful expression of the rabbit, use a long strand of Tan yarn to perform eye sculpting. Insert the needle at the base of the head, exit near the inner corner of one eye, re-enter a stitch away, and pull back toward the base. Repeat for the other eye. This creates depth in the sockets. For the nose and mouth, use dark brown embroidery thread to embroider a small “Y” shape directly in the center of the face, approximately three rounds below the eyes. Apply pink blush to the cheeks and the bridge of the nose using a soft brush to add a healthy garden glow. Ensure the embroidery is symmetrical to the eyes to maintain the soulful gaze.

Phase 2: Upright Bunny Ears

The ears define the silhouette of the Hydrangea Hill Bunny. They are tall, alert, and slightly tapered at the tips. We work these in continuous spirals using Tan yarn and the 2.25mm hook. Do not stuff the ears to ensure they maintain their flat, elegant profile. Make two identical pieces.

1. Round 1: Start with a MR and work 6 sc inside. (6)
2. Round 2: Work 1 inc into every stitch around. (12)
3. Round 3: Perform (1 sc, 1 inc) repeat 6 times. (18)
4. Round 4: Perform (2 sc, 1 inc) repeat 6 times. (24)
5. Rounds 5-15: Work 1 sc in each of the 24 stitches around. (24)
6. Round 16: Perform (6 sc, 1 dec) repeat 3 times. (21)
7. Rounds 17-21: sc in each st around. (21)
8. Round 22: Perform (5 sc, 1 dec) repeat 3 times. (18)
9. Rounds 23-27: sc in each st around. (18)
10. Round 28: Perform (4 sc, 1 dec) repeat 3 times. (15)
11. Rounds 29-38: sc in each st around. (15)
12. Flatten the ear and work a round of 7 sc through both layers to close the base. Fasten off and leave a long tail for sewing to the top of the head at round 5 during assembly. Using pink blush, shade the inner center of the ear for a realistic touch.

Phase 3: The Sturdy Bunny Torso

The body is pear-shaped to allow for a seated posture while providing a solid frame for the mint green dress. We work from the neck down. Use Tan yarn and maintain firm tension to prevent the body from sagging. Ensure the bottom is stuffed heavily to provide a flat base for sitting.

1. Round 1: MR, 6 sc. (6)
2. Round 2: 6 inc. (12)
3. Round 3: (1 sc, 1 inc) repeat 6 times. (18)
4. Round 4: (2 sc, 1 inc) repeat 6 times. (24)
5. Round 5: (3 sc, 1 inc) repeat 6 times. (30)
6. Round 6: (4 sc, 1 inc) repeat 6 times. (36)
7. Rounds 7-18: sc in each st around. (36)
8. Round 19: (5 sc, 1 inc) repeat 6 times. (42)
9. Round 20: (6 sc, 1 inc) repeat 6 times. (48)
10. Round 21: (7 sc, 1 inc) repeat 6 times. (54)
11. Round 22: (8 sc, 1 inc) repeat 6 times. (60)
12. Rounds 23-35: sc in each st around. (60) Stuff firmly as you progress.
13. Round 36: (8 sc, 1 dec) repeat 6 times. (54)
14. Round 37: (7 sc, 1 dec) repeat 6 times. (48)
15. Round 38: (6 sc, 1 dec) repeat 6 times. (42)
16. Round 39: (5 sc, 1 dec) repeat 6 times. (36) Stuff the torso very firmly.
17. Round 40: (4 sc, 1 dec) repeat 6 times. (30)
18. Round 41: (3 sc, 1 dec) repeat 6 times. (24)
19. Round 42: 12 dec to close. (12) Fasten off.

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Phase 4: Slender Arms and Legs

The limbs of the bunny are long and slender. Use Tan yarn for all four components. Stuff the hands and feet firmly, but leave the upper sections softer to allow for natural movement against the garments.

Bunny Arms (Make 2)

1. Round 1: MR, 6 sc. (6)
2. Round 2: (1 sc, 1 inc) repeat 3 times. (9)
3. Round 3: (2 sc, 1 inc) repeat 3 times. (12)
4. Rounds 4-28: sc in each stitch around. (12)
5. Flatten the top and work 6 sc across both layers to close. Sew to the sides of the torso at Round 6 of the body.

Bunny Legs (Make 2)

1. Round 1: MR, 6 sc. (6)
2. Round 2: 6 inc. (12)
3. Round 3: (1 sc, 1 inc) repeat 6 times. (18)
4. Round 4: (2 sc, 1 inc) repeat 6 times. (24)
5. Rounds 5-32: sc in each stitch around. (24)
6. Stuff firmly. Flatten the top and work 12 sc across to close. Sew to the bottom sides of the torso so the bunny sits securely.

Phase 5: White Puffy Sleeves

The puffy sleeves are separate pieces that slide onto the arms, providing high contrast under the mint sundress. Use White yarn and a 2.75mm hook.

1. Round 1: Ch 15, join in a ring. (15)
2. Round 2: inc in each stitch around to create extreme volume. (30)
3. Rounds 3-10: sc in each st around. (30)
4. Round 11: (sc 1, dec) repeat around. (20)
5. Round 12: dec around until you reach 10 sts. (10)
6. Round 13: Work a round of sl st to finish the cuff. Fasten off. Slide these onto the arms and secure them at the shoulder join during final assembly.

Phase 6: The Mint Hydrangea Sundress

The dress is the centerpiece, featuring a vibrant mint green color and a flared skirt. The bodice features a distinctive 3×3 grid of hydrangea popcorn motifs. Use Mint yarn and the 2.75mm hook. The dress is worked from the waist down.

Bodice Section

1. Row 1: Ch 31. Starting in the 2nd ch from hook, work 30 sc. Ch 1, turn.
2. Rows 2-10: Work sc 30 across to build the bodice height.
3. Straps: Ch 12 for each strap and secure to the back of the waistband.

The Hydrangea Motif (Grid Construction)

Create 9 miniature 3D squares to sew onto the chest in a 3×3 grid. Use Sky Blue (4 squares) and Pale Lavender (5 squares).

1. Foundation: MR, 8 sc.
2. Round 1: In each sc, work a PC stitch (4-dc popcorn) separated by ch 1. This creates a dense, bobbled floral texture.
3. Assembly: Sew these small clusters onto the front of the mint green bodice in a grid pattern.

The Skirt Foundation

1. Join Mint yarn to the bottom of the bodice.
2. Round 1: *sc 1, inc* repeat around. (approx 45 sts)
3. Round 2-18: sc in each st around. (45)
4. Round 19 (Hem): Work a scalloped edge: (sl st in next st, skip 1 st, 5 dc in next st, skip 1 st) repeat around. Fasten off.

Phase 7: Cornflower Blue Beret and Violet Shoes

Blue Garden Beret

The beret sits at an angle and features a small central stalk. Use Blue yarn and 2.75mm hook.

1. Round 1: 6 sc in a MR. (6)
2. Round 2: 6 inc. (12)
3. Round 3-10: Gradually increase until you reach 48 sts.
4. Rounds 11-14: sc around. (48)
5. Round 15: (sc 4, dec) repeat around. (40)
6. Round 16: sc around. Fasten off.
7. Stalk: Attach yarn to the center MR, ch 4, sl st back to ring.

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Violet Buckle Shoes

Make two shoes using Violet yarn. These should be removable.

1. Round 1: Ch 7. Start in 2nd ch: 5 sc, 3 sc in last ch. Turn: 4 sc, inc. (14)
2. Round 2: inc, 4 sc, 3 inc, 4 sc, 2 inc. (20)
3. Round 3: BLO sc in each st around. (20)
4. Round 4: sc in each st around. (20)
5. Round 5: 8 sc, 3 dec, 6 sc. (17)
6. Strap: ch 8 from one side of the shoe opening to the other. Fasten off and sew a tiny white bead for the buckle.

Phase 8: Miniature Koala Companion

This tiny pet reaches for the bunny and features fuzzy grey ears and a black nose. Use Grey yarn and a 2.25mm hook.

1. Body & Head: Work as one piece in Grey. MR, 6 sc. (R2) 12 sc. (R3) 18 sc. (R4-R10) 18 sc. (R11) dec around. Stuff and close.
2. Ears: In Grey, MR 6 sc. R2: inc around. Work 1 round of fuzzy sl st with a needle to fray the edges. Sew to the head.
3. Limbs: Work 4 small cylinders (MR, 5 sc x 4 rounds). Sew to the body. Position the front limbs as if the koala is hugging the bunny.
4. Face: Use Black yarn to embroider a large vertical oval for the nose. Add tiny 4mm eyes.

Phase 9: Gingham Blanket and Picnic Basket

Blue Gingham Blanket

The blanket uses tapestry crochet to create the checkered pattern. Use Blue and White yarn.

1. Row 1: With White, Ch 21. Work 20 sc across. (20)
2. Colorwork pattern: Switch between Blue and White every 4 stitches. Change rows every 4 rows to maintain square checkers. (20 rows total)
3. Finishing: Work a border of sc in Blue around the entire blanket.

Tan Woven Picnic Basket

Use Tan yarn and 2.25mm hook.

1. Base: MR, 6 sc. (R2) 12 sc. (R3) 18 sc. (R4) 24 sc.
2. Sides: BLO sc 24 for 1 round. Rounds 2-6: sc 24 around.
3. Handle: Ch 15, work sc back across. Sew to the sides of the basket.

Final Assembly and Sculpting Mastery

Assembling the components with precision is what gives the bunny its lifelike quality. Follow these final steps to bring your Hydrangea Hill Bunny to life. Consistency in the alignment of the head and ears is the most important factor in capturing the bunny’s personality.

• Joining the Body: Sew the head firmly to the torso opening. Ensure the neck is stuffed very firmly so the head does not wobble under the weight of the floppy ears and beret.
• Ear Placement: Pin the long ears to Round 6 of the head. Check from the front to ensure they are symmetrical and standing upright before sewing them securely. They should sit just behind the beret.
• Dressing: Slide the white puffy sleeves onto the arms. Put the mint green sundress on first, ensuring the straps sit neatly on the shoulders. Ensure the hydrangea grid is perfectly centered on the chest.
• Styling: Place the blue beret on the head, pulling it slightly forward for a jaunty look. Put the violet shoes on the feet.
• Final Touches: Position the picnic basket and folded gingham blanket next to her right foot. Place the miniature koala next to her left arm, securing it with a small hidden stitch to give the appearance of an embrace.
• Finishing Polish: Inspect your work for any loose yarn tails. Use your needle to pull any ends deep into the stuffing. Re-apply the pink cheek blush if it has faded during assembly.

Your Hydrangea Hill Bunny is now complete! This character serves as a stunning tribute to traditional handcraft and garden aesthetics. Store your finished doll in a dry place away from direct sunlight to preserve the vibrancy of the mint and violet hues. We hope you enjoyed the meticulous process of building this character and that she brings a touch of springtime magic to your home.

Would you like to learn how to add a small lace edge to the picnic basket, or perhaps receive guidance on creating a matching miniature wheelbarrow for your bunny?