The Wild Poppy Field Bunny is an exquisite masterpiece of artisan craft, blending the rustic charm of a summer meadow with the sophisticated details of vintage toy design. This project features a soulful beige rabbit dressed in a stunning cream dress adorned with hand-embroidered red poppies, a classic black vest, and a signature red beret. To achieve the high-definition results and professional stitch definition seen in this character, it is vital to buy premium cotton amigurumi yarn and purchase ergonomic crochet hooks that allow for precise tension control. Many dedicated creators choose to order high-quality polyester fiberfill and get safety eyes for dolls from reliable online shops like Amazon to ensure their finished character has the structural integrity of a gallery-level heirloom. This project is a magnificent investment of your artistic energy, resulting in a timeless piece that showcases advanced skills in garment layering, miniature accessory sculpting, and surface embroidery. Whether intended as a centerpiece for a collection or a high-end gift, this bunny radiates warmth, narrative depth, and artisanal excellence.

Please note: I strive for accuracy in every pattern, but occasional errors can happen. Thank you for understanding and for enjoying my designs.

Detailed Material List and Preparation

Before beginning the construction of your Wild Poppy Field Bunny, gather all the necessary supplies to ensure a smooth and uninterrupted creative process. The proportions of this character are substantial, requiring a consistent gauge across all components. Using a hook size slightly smaller than what the yarn label recommends is the secret to creating a tight, dense fabric that keeps the stuffing completely hidden.

• Main Bunny Body: Tan or Beige Sport weight cotton yarn (approx. 150g). A semi-cotton blend can also be used for a softer touch.
• The Wardrobe: Cream or Off-white yarn for the dress (100g), Jet Black yarn for the vest (30g), and Vibrant Red yarn for the beret and shoes (60g).
• Floral Embroidery: Small amounts of Deep Red, Forest Green, and Black embroidery floss or fine-weight yarn for the poppy motifs.
• Miniature Mouse: Light Grey yarn and a scrap of yellow for the wheat stalk.
• Tea Set Accessories: Cream and Brown yarn for the teapot and cups.
• Crochet Hooks: A 2.25mm hook for the main body and miniature figures to ensure a rigid structure; a 2.75mm hook for the clothing to allow for a slightly softer, more natural drape.
• Safety Eyes: 12mm solid black safety eyes with secure backings for the rabbit; 4mm eyes or black thread for the mouse.
• Stuffing: High-density, anti-allergenic polyester fiberfill.
• Notions: Long tapestry needle for limb attachment, sharp embroidery needle for floral work, stitch markers, and pink cosmetic blush for the cheeks.

Standard Stitch Abbreviations and Terminology

This project guide utilizes standard United States terminology. Accuracy in stitch placement and maintaining even tension are the foundations for ensuring that the tiered garments fit the bunny’s body perfectly. If your tension tends to be naturally loose, consider moving down half a hook size for the head and limbs.

• MR: Magic Ring (the essential foundation for circular work).
• sc: Single crochet.
• inc: Increase (work two single crochets into the same stitch).
• dec: Invisible decrease (work through the front loops only to reduce bulk).
• hdc: Half double crochet.
• dc: Double crochet.
• tr: Treble crochet.
• sl st: Slip stitch.
• ch: Chain stitch.
• BLO: Back loops only.
• FLO: Front loops only.
• st(s): Stitch or stitches.

Phase 1: The Sculpted Bunny Head

The head is designed as a large, rounded sphere with subtle tapering toward the muzzle to provide a gentle, soulful expression. We work in continuous spirals using the Beige yarn and the 2.25mm hook. It is vital to use a stitch marker at the beginning of each round to maintain an accurate count during the shaping of the cheeks. Pack the fiberfill tightly as you go to support the weight of the beret.

1. Round 1: Start by creating a MR and placing 6 sc into the ring. (6)
2. Round 2: Work 1 inc in every stitch around the circle. (12)
3. Round 3: Perform a sequence of one single crochet followed by an increase, repeated 6 times. (18)
4. Round 4: Perform a sequence of two single crochets followed by an increase, repeated 6 times. (24)
5. Round 5: Perform a sequence of three single crochets followed by an increase, repeated 6 times. (30)
6. Round 6: Perform a sequence of four single crochets followed by an increase, repeated 6 times. (36)
7. Round 7: Perform a sequence of five single crochets followed by an increase, repeated 6 times. (42)
8. Round 8: Perform a sequence of six single crochets followed by an increase, repeated 6 times. (48)
9. Round 9: Perform a sequence of seven single crochets followed by an increase, repeated 6 times. (54)
10. Round 10: Perform a sequence of eight single crochets followed by an increase, repeated 6 times. (60)
11. Round 11: Perform a sequence of nine single crochets followed by an increase, repeated 6 times. (66)
12. Rounds 12-25: Work 1 sc in each of the 66 stitches around. This long section builds the vertical height of the face and creates the placement area for the eyes. (66)
13. Round 26: Perform a sequence of nine single crochets followed by an invisible decrease, repeated 6 times. (60)
14. Round 27: Perform a sequence of eight single crochets followed by an invisible decrease, repeated 6 times. (54)
15. Round 28: Perform a sequence of seven single crochets followed by an invisible decrease, repeated 6 times. (48)
16. Placement: Insert the 12mm safety eyes between rounds 18 and 19, leaving approximately 12 stitches of space between them. Ensure they are level.
17. Round 29: Perform a sequence of six single crochets followed by an invisible decrease, repeated 6 times. (42)
18. Round 30: Perform a sequence of five single crochets followed by an invisible decrease, repeated 6 times. (36)
19. Stuffing: Begin stuffing the head firmly. Focus on pushing the fiberfill toward the sides to define the rounded cheeks seen in the image.
20. Round 31: Perform a sequence of four single crochets followed by an invisible decrease, repeated 6 times. (30)
21. Round 32: Perform a sequence of three single crochets followed by an invisible decrease, repeated 6 times. (24)
22. Round 33: Perform a sequence of two single crochets followed by an invisible decrease, repeated 6 times. (18)
23. Round 34: Perform a sequence of one single crochet followed by an invisible decrease, repeated 6 times. (12) Finish stuffing.
24. Round 35: 6 dec to close. (6) Fasten off and leave a long tail. Use a tapestry needle to pull the hole closed securely.

Facial Details and Muzzle Sculpting

To achieve the soulful expression of the rabbit, use a long strand of Beige yarn to perform eye sculpting. Insert the needle at the base of the head, exit near the inner corner of one eye, re-enter a stitch away, and pull back toward the base. Repeat for the other eye. This creates depth in the sockets. For the nose and mouth, use dark brown thread to embroider a small “Y” shape directly in the center of the face, approximately three rounds below the eyes. Apply pink blush to the cheeks using a soft brush to add a healthy garden glow.

Phase 2: Long Floppy Bunny Ears

The ears are a signature feature, requiring a long, flat construction that allows them to hang naturally beside the head. We do not stuff the ears to maintain flexibility. Make two identical pieces using the Beige yarn and the 2.25mm hook.

1. Round 1: Start with a MR and work 6 sc inside. (6)
2. Round 2: Work 1 inc into every stitch around. (12)
3. Round 3: Perform (1 sc, 1 inc) repeat 6 times. (18)
4. Round 4: Perform (2 sc, 1 inc) repeat 6 times. (24)
5. Round 5: Perform (3 sc, 1 inc) repeat 6 times. (30)
6. Rounds 6-15: Work 1 sc in each of the 30 stitches around. (30)
7. Round 16: Perform (8 sc, 1 dec) repeat 3 times. (27)
8. Rounds 17-25: sc in each st around. (27)
9. Round 26: Perform (7 sc, 1 dec) repeat 3 times. (24)
10. Rounds 27-35: sc in each st around. (24)
11. Round 36: Perform (6 sc, 1 dec) repeat 3 times. (21)
12. Rounds 37-45: sc in each st around. (21)
13. Round 46: Perform (5 sc, 1 dec) repeat 3 times. (18)
14. Rounds 47-65: sc in each st around. (18) The extra length is vital for the vintage silhouette.
15. Flatten the base of the ear and perform 9 sc through both layers to close the opening. Fasten off and leave a very long tail for sewing. These will be attached to the top of the head at round 6 during assembly.

Phase 3: The Sturdy Bunny Torso

The body is shaped to stand stably while providing a solid frame for the heavy wardrobe. We work from the neck down. Use Beige yarn and maintain firm tension to prevent the body from sagging. Ensure the bottom is stuffed heavily to provide a flat base for standing.

1. Round 1: MR, 6 sc. (6)
2. Round 2: 6 inc. (12)
3. Round 3: (1 sc, 1 inc) repeat around. (18)
4. Round 4: (2 sc, 1 inc) repeat around. (24)
5. Round 5: (3 sc, 1 inc) repeat around. (30)
6. Round 6: (4 sc, 1 inc) repeat around. (36)
7. Rounds 7-18: sc in each st around. (36)
8. Round 19: (5 sc, 1 inc) repeat around. (42)
9. Round 20: (6 sc, 1 inc) repeat around. (48)
10. Round 21: (7 sc, 1 inc) repeat around. (54)
11. Rounds 22-38: sc in each st around. (54) Stuff firmly as you progress.
12. Round 39: (7 sc, 1 dec) repeat around. (48)
13. Round 40: (6 sc, 1 dec) repeat around. (42)
14. Round 41: (5 sc, 1 dec) repeat around. (36)
15. Round 42: (4 sc, 1 dec) repeat around. (30)
16. Round 43: (3 sc, 1 dec) repeat around. (24) Stuff the lower body very firmly.
17. Round 44: (2 sc, 1 dec) repeat around. (18)
18. Round 45: sc in each st around. (18) Fasten off, leaving a long tail for assembly.

Phase 4: Slender Arms and Stable Legs

The limbs of the bunny are long and slender. Use Beige yarn for all four components. Stuff the hands and feet firmly, but leave the upper halves slightly softer to allow for natural movement against the garments.

Bunny Arms (Make 2)

1. Round 1: MR, 6 sc. (6)
2. Round 2: (1 sc, 1 inc) repeat 3 times. (9)
3. Round 3: (2 sc, 1 inc) repeat 3 times. (12)
4. Rounds 4-30: sc in each stitch around. (12)
5. Flatten the top and work 6 sc across both layers to close. Sew to the sides of the torso at Round 6 of the body.

Bunny Legs (Make 2)

1. Round 1: MR, 6 sc. (6)
2. Round 2: 6 inc. (12)
3. Round 3: (1 sc, 1 inc) repeat 6 times. (18)
4. Round 4: (2 sc, 1 inc) repeat 6 times. (24)
5. Rounds 5-35: sc in each stitch around. (24)
6. Stuff the feet very firmly. Flatten the top and work 12 sc across to close. Sew to the bottom sides of the torso so the bunny stands with stability.

Phase 5: The Wardrobe – Cream Poppy Dress

The dress is a sleeveless pinafore-style garment worked in rounds. Use the Cream yarn and a 2.75mm hook. The hem features a scalloped shell stitch for added elegance.

1. Row 1: Ch 41. Join into a ring with a slip stitch. (40)
2. Round 1: sc 40 around.
3. Round 2: (sc 4, inc) around. (48)
4. Round 3: (sc 5, inc) around. (56)
5. Round 4: (sc 6, inc) around. (64)
6. Round 5: sc in each st around. (64)
7. Round 6: Switch to dc. dc in each st around. (64)
8. Round 7: (dc 7, inc) around. (72)
9. Rounds 8-20: dc in each st around. (72)
10. Round 21 (Hem): Work a shell edge: (sl st in first st, skip 1 st, 5 dc in next st, skip 1 st) repeat around. This creates the scalloped look seen in the photo. Fasten off and weave in ends.

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Poppy Embroidery Instructions

Using Deep Red embroidery floss, create the poppy petals using the satin stitch. Each flower consists of four overlapping rounded petals. Once the petals are complete, use Black thread to place a large French knot in the center of each flower. Finally, use Forest Green thread to create thin vertical lines for the stems and small “v” shapes for the leaves. Space these poppies evenly around the lower half of the cream dress as shown in the image.

Phase 6: The Black Vest and Red Beret

The Black Bolero Vest

The vest is worked in rows to create an open front. Use Black yarn and a 2.75mm hook.

1. Row 1: Ch 25. Starting in 2nd ch, work 24 sc. Ch 1, turn.
2. Row 2: inc in first st, sc 22, inc in last st. (26)
3. Row 3: sc 26 across.
4. Row 4: 6 sc, ch 10, skip 4 sts (armhole), 6 sc, ch 10, skip 4 sts (armhole), 6 sc.
5. Row 5: sc in each st and ch space across. Fasten off and use sc to border the entire vest for a clean finish.

The Red Beret

The beret sits at an angle and features a classic flat top. Use Red yarn.

1. Round 1: 6 sc in a MR. (6)
2. Round 2: 6 inc. (12)
3. Round 3: (1 sc, inc) around. (18)
4. Round 4: (2 sc, inc) around. (24)
5. Round 5: (3 sc, inc) around. (30)
6. Round 6: (4 sc, inc) around. (36)
7. Round 7: (5 sc, inc) around. (42)
8. Round 8: (6 sc, inc) around. (48)
9. Round 9: (7 sc, inc) around. (54)
10. Round 10: (8 sc, inc) around. (60)
11. Round 11: sc around. (60)
12. Round 12: (8 sc, dec) around. (54)
13. Round 13: (7 sc, dec) around. (48)
14. Round 14: Work a round of sl st loosely. Fasten off.
15. Nub: In the center MR, attach red yarn and ch 3, sl st back to ring.

Phase 7: Miniature Companions and Accessories

The Harvest Mouse

Use Grey yarn and a 2.25mm hook for this tiny friend.

1. Body: MR, 6 sc. R2: 9 sc. R3-R7: 9 sc. R8: dec around. Stuff and close.
2. Ears: In MR, 5 sc. Sew to head.
3. Tail: ch 10, sl st back.
4. Wheat Stalk: Using Yellow yarn, ch 12. At the top 4 chains, work picots (ch 3, sl st in first ch) to mimic grains of wheat. Place the stalk in the mouse’s hands.

The Tea Set

Use Cream and Brown yarn. This requires a very steady hand.

1. Teapot Body: MR, 6 sc. R2: 12 sc. R3: 18 sc. R4-R7: 18 sc. R8: 9 dec. Stuff and close.
2. Spout/Handle: In Cream, ch 4 for spout; in Brown, ch 6 for handle. Sew to sides.
3. Lid: In Brown, MR 6 sc. Sew to top.
4. Cups (Make 2): In Cream, MR 6 sc. R2: 9 sc. R3: 9 sc. Add a tiny brown loop for the handle.

Phase 8: Footwear and Character Finishing

Red Mary Jane Shoes

Make two shoes using Red yarn to match the beret.

1. Round 1: Ch 7. Start in 2nd ch: 5 sc, 3 sc in last ch. Turn: 4 sc, inc. (14)
2. Round 2: inc, 4 sc, 3 inc, 4 sc, 2 inc. (20)
3. Round 3: BLO sc in each st around. (20)
4. Round 4: sc in each st around. (20)
5. Round 5: 8 sc, 3 dec, 6 sc. (17)
6. Strap: ch 8 from one side of the shoe opening to the other. Fasten off and sew a tiny black bead to the side for the button.

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Final Assembly and Sculpting Mastery

Assembling the Wild Poppy Field Bunny is a process that requires patience to ensure all elements are symmetrical. Follow these final steps to bring your character to life.

• Joining the Body: Sew the head firmly to the torso opening. Ensure the neck is stuffed very firmly so the head does not wobble under the weight of the ears and beret.
• Ear placement: Pin the long ears to Round 6 of the head. Check from the front to ensure they are symmetrical and centered before sewing them securely. They should hang straight down behind the bunny’s shoulders.
• Dressing: Slide the cream poppy dress onto the bunny. Secure the back with a small stitch. Layer the black vest over the top.
• Styling: Place the red beret on the head, pulling it slightly forward and to one side for a jaunty look. Put the red shoes on her feet.
• Final Polish: Position the tea set and the mouse next to the bunny’s feet. Inspect your work for any loose yarn tails. Use your needle to pull any ends deep into the stuffing. Re-apply the cheek blush if it has faded during assembly.

Your Wild Poppy Field Bunny is now complete! This character serves as a stunning tribute to traditional handcraft and garden aesthetics. Store your finished doll in a dry place away from direct sunlight to preserve the vibrancy of the red and green hues. We hope you enjoyed the meticulous process of building this character and that she brings a touch of springtime magic to your home.

Would you like to learn how to add a small lace edge to the tea cups, or perhaps receive guidance on creating a matching miniature garden bench for your bunny to sit on?