Meet your project 🐰

This beginner-friendly pattern walks you through knitting a soft little bunny with a simple pink pinafore dress, white frilly socks, and pink booties—just like in the photo. Everything is written step-by-step with stitch counts, clear shaping, and gentle tips so you can finish confidently even if this is your first knitted toy. Pieces are worked flat on straight needles and seamed, which keeps the techniques approachable and portable.

The finished bunny stands about 8½–9½ in (22–24 cm) tall with DK/light-worsted yarn. Feel free to swap colors to personalize your bunny—this design looks cute in any pastel.

Safety first: If gifting to a baby or toddler, embroider the features (no buttons), stitch very securely, and avoid removable pins or findings.

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Materials & Tools

• Yarn (DK / Light Worsted, Category 3):
  1. Main fur color: 50–70 g (e.g., beige or light brown)
  2. Contrast for muzzle/inner ear (optional): small amount of cream
  3. Dress color: 30–40 g pink
  4. Sock color: small amount of white
  5. Booties: small amount of pink
  6. Embroidery: a few yards of dark brown or black for nose/eyes/mouth
• Needles: US 3 (3.25 mm) straight needles for the bunny; US 2.5–3 (3.0–3.25 mm) for the dress (use the smaller if you’re a loose knitter so the dress fits neatly).
• Notions & tools: yarn/tapestry needle, locking stitch markers, scissors, polyester fiberfill, optional 6–8 mm safety eyes (embroider if making for young children), 2 small buttons for the straps (or embroider “buttons”).
• Gauge: approx. 24 sts × 32 rows = 4 in/10 cm in stockinette. Exact gauge isn’t critical—aim for a firm fabric so stuffing doesn’t show.

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Abbreviations & Techniques (US/International)

• CO cast on
• BO bind off
• k knit
• p purl
• st(s) stitches
• RS/WS right/wrong side
• kfb knit front and back (increase 1)
• M1 make one (lifted increase)
• k2tog knit 2 together (right-leaning decrease)
• ssk slip, slip, knit (left-leaning decrease)
• pm/sm place/move marker
• PUK pick up and knit
• yo yarn over (buttonholes/ruffle)
• Mattress stitch invisible vertical seam
• Whip stitch quick edge-to-edge seam
• Gather run a thread through sts and pull tight

If you’re new to toy making, practice kfb, k2tog/ssk, and mattress stitch on a small swatch first—those are your workhorses here.

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Overview of Construction

You’ll knit legs (with socks and booties), arms, body, head, ears, and a tiny tail—all flat and seamed. Then you’ll knit the pinafore separately. Final steps include light embroidery for the face and sewing on the ears, limbs, and dress straps.

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Pattern — The Bunny

Legs & Booties (make 2)

Worked flat from foot upward.

With pink (bootie), CO 18 sts.
Rows 1–4: k (garter cuff on the shoe).
Rows 5–12: Stockinette (Row 5 k, Row 6 p), repeating to 8 shoe rows total.

Change to white (socks).
Row 13 (RS) – Ruffle increase: (kfb) across. (36)
Row 14 (WS): p.
Row 15 (RS): (k2tog) across to reduce back. (18)
Rows 16–26: Work 11 rows stockinette for the sock/leg. (18 sts)

Shape top of leg:
Row 27 (RS): k7, k2tog, k7, k2tog. (16)
Row 28 (WS): p.
Row 29 (RS): k6, k2tog, k6, k2tog. (14)

BO purlwise on WS.
Sew the leg seam with mattress stitch, gather the bottom edge closed to shape the foot, and stuff the bootie and leg lightly but firmly. Make the second leg to match.

Mary-Jane strap look: After assembly, work a short line of duplicate stitch in white across the bootie front, or embroider a neat bar to mimic a strap.

📌Thank you for reading the article.

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Body

Worked flat from bottom up in main fur color.

CO 36 sts.
Rows 1–6: Stockinette (begin with RS knit), ending after a WS purl row.

Shape lower tummy:
Row 7 (RS): k7, k2tog; repeat to end. (32)
Row 8: p.
Row 9 (RS): k6, k2tog; repeat. (28)
Rows 10–15: work even in stockinette (28 sts).

Waist shaping:
Row 16 (RS): k5, k2tog; repeat. (24)
Rows 17–20: work even.

Shape upper chest and neck:
Row 21 (RS): k4, k2tog; repeat. (20)
Row 22: p.
Row 23 (RS): k3, k2tog; repeat. (16)
Row 24: p.
Row 25 (RS): k2, k2tog; repeat. (12)
Row 26: p.

BO, leaving a long tail for seaming. Seam the back of the body with mattress stitch, stuff as you go so it stays even and plump. Leave the top neck opening slightly unstuffed for attaching the head.

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Arms (make 2)

Worked flat in main fur color.

CO 14 sts.
Rows 1–14: stockinette (start with RS knit).
Row 15 (RS): k5, k2tog, k4, k2tog, k1. (12)
Row 16 (WS): p.
Row 17 (RS): k4, k2tog, k3, k2tog, k1. (10)

BO purlwise. Seam each arm, gather the lower end slightly to form a rounded paw, stuff lightly, and close the top flat.

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Head

Worked flat from base to crown. Using cream for the lower face is optional—switch to cream at Row 6 and back to main at Row 14 if you want that gentle muzzle look.

CO 12 sts in main color.
Row 1 (WS): p.
Row 2 (RS): (kfb) across. (24)
Row 3: p.
Row 4: (k1, kfb) across. (36)
Row 5: p.
Row 6: (k5, kfb) ×6. (42)
Rows 7–16: work even in stockinette (42 sts) for the roundness of the head.

Crown shaping:
Row 17 (RS): (k5, k2tog) ×6. (36)
Row 18: p.
Row 19 (RS): (k1, k2tog) ×12. (24)
Row 20: p.
Row 21 (RS): (k2tog) ×12. (12)

Cut a long tail. Thread the tail through the 12 live stitches, gather tightly, and secure. Seam the sides of the head from crown down to the base using mattress stitch, stuff firmly as you go—aim for a smooth round shape with a gentle front muzzle.

Face embroidery (do this now while it’s easy):

• Position eyes roughly 8–9 sts apart and 3–4 rows above the centerline. Use French knots or small horizontal satin stitches with dark yarn; or insert safety eyes now if appropriate.
• For the nose, stitch a tiny inverted triangle, then embroider a short vertical line and two little curves for the mouth.

Leave the base opening of the head unseamed; this will sit on the neck.

📌Thank you for reading the article.

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Ears (make 2)

Worked flat in main color; optional inner ear in cream using duplicate stitch or a second ear layer sewn on top.

CO 6 sts.
Row 1 (WS): p.
Row 2 (RS): kfb, k to last st, kfb. (8)
Row 3: p.
Row 4: kfb, k to last st, kfb. (10)
Row 5: p.
Row 6: kfb, k to last st, kfb. (12)
Rows 7–12: work even stockinette (12 sts).
Row 13 (RS): k2tog, k to last 2, ssk. (10)
Row 14: p.
Row 15 (RS): k2tog, k to last 2, ssk. (8)
Row 16: p.
Row 17 (RS): k2tog, k to last 2, ssk. (6)

BO leaving a long tail. Fold the ear lengthwise slightly and stitch a couple of shaping tacks near the base so it stands with a gentle curve.

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Tail

CO 12 sts in main color.
Row 1: k.
Row 2: (k2tog) across. (6)
Cut yarn, thread through remaining 6 sts, gather into a small ball. Add a pinch of stuffing, pull tight, and secure.

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Assembly — Put Your Bunny Together

1. Attach legs: Position legs at the lower body with the ruffle just peeking beneath the future dress hem. Whip stitch the top of each leg to the body’s underside.
2. Close and shape body: Finish stuffing the body evenly. Use small extra stitches at the lower corners to define the hips if you like.
3. Join head to body: Insert the body’s neck opening about 1–1.5 cm into the base of the head. Ladder stitch all the way around; add a little stuffing at the join to keep the neck firm and upright.
4. Sew on arms: Attach arms symmetrically a row or two below the neck seam. Angle them slightly forward for a cuddly posture.
5. Add ears: Stitch ears to the head top, about 5–6 sts apart. Tilt slightly outward.
6. Tail: Stitch the small pom-tail to the back.
7. Final face touches: Re-check eye and nose symmetry. Adjust or add a stitch or two if needed.

At this stage your bunny is complete and ready for clothes!

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Pattern — Pink Pinafore Dress

Simple A-line skirt with a neat bib front and two back-to-front straps. Worked flat and seamed at the back.

With pink and smaller needles, CO 72 sts.
Rows 1–4: Garter hem (k all rows).
Rows 5–20: Stockinette for the skirt (Row 5 k, Row 6 p), repeat to 16 rows.

Waist shaping (RS rows only):
Row 21: k6, k2tog; repeat across. (63)
Row 23: k5, k2tog; repeat. (54)
Row 25: k4, k2tog; repeat. (45)
Rows 26–28: work even in stockinette. (45)

Underarm shaping to form the bib front:
Row 29 (RS): BO 10, k to last 10, BO 10. (25 remain in center)
Row 30 (WS): p across.
Rows 31–38: continue in stockinette on these 25 sts.
Rows 39–40: Garter detail (k both rows) to echo the photo’s horizontal texture.
Rows 41–44: stockinette.
Row 45: BO all sts loosely.

Back seam: Fold the skirt and seam the back edges from the hem up to the underarm bind-offs. Weave ends neatly on the inside.

Straps (make 2):
Turn the dress with the back facing you. At the back upper edge (near each side seam just below the underarm bind-off), PUK 5 sts for the first strap.
Rows 1–12: Garter stitch (k all rows) for a firm strap that won’t curl.
Row 13 (buttonhole): k2, yo, k2tog, k1.
Rows 14–16: k all rows.
BO.
Repeat for the second strap on the opposite back edge.

Finishing the dress:

• Sew two small buttons to the top corners of the front bib.
• Try the dress on the bunny; cross straps if you like, or lay them straight over the shoulders. Button in place.
• Steam lightly to settle the hem if needed.

Bloomers/ruffle look: Those white frills you knitted at the top of each sock peek out cutely under the dress—no separate bloomers required. If you prefer fuller frills, add one extra “ruffle set” on the leg by knitting (kfb) across again, purl 1 row, then (k2tog) across before continuing the leg.