Introduction

Meet your new favorite soft toy project: a cheerful Polka-Dot Pig Plush wearing a removable romper with white spots. This tutorial is written especially for beginners who are comfortable with the knit stitch and ready to try knitting in the round. We’ll build the pig from the top down, so the head, neck, and body are mostly seamless. Arms, legs, ears, snout, tail, and the romper are made separately and attached. The white dots on the romper are added with easy duplicate stitch (embroidered “V” stitches) so you can skip carrying two colors in stranded colorwork if you prefer.

The finished toy stands about 9½–10 in (24–26 cm) tall when made with DK/Light-Worsted yarn and small needles for a dense, no-stuffing-showing fabric. Clothes are removable and the whole project is friendly, fun, and perfect for gifting.

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Materials

Yarn (DK / Light-Worsted, non-fuzzy acrylic or cotton blend works well):

• Pig: Light pink – ~110–130 m (120–140 yd)
• Romper: Dark/bright pink – ~90–110 m (100–120 yd)
• Dots & Collar (romper trim): White – ~20–30 m (22–33 yd)
• Features: A few meters of black or dark brown for eyes/nostrils (use embroidery, or safety eyes if appropriate)

Needles

• 3.25 mm (US 3) circulars, 80–100 cm/32–40″ for Magic Loop or a set of 3.25 mm (US 3) DPNs
• Optional: 3.0 mm (US 2½) needles for snug ribbing/collar on romper

Notions & Tools

• Stitch markers (1 contrasting for beginning of round + a few extras)
• Tapestry/yarn needle
• Polyester fiberfill stuffing
• Waste yarn or stitch holder
• 1–2 small buttons (6–8 mm) for the romper back opening
• Scissors
• Optional: 6 mm safety eyes (use only for recipients over 3 years and secure per manufacturer instructions)

Gauge
Approx. 24–26 sts & 34–36 rows = 10 cm / 4″ in stockinette in the round with 3.25 mm needles. Gauge is not critical but aim for a firm fabric so stuffing doesn’t peek through.

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Abbreviations & Techniques

• CO cast on
• BO bind off
• K knit
• P purl
• St(s) stitch(es)
• Rnd(s) round(s)
• Kfb knit front and back (increase +1)
• K2tog knit 2 together (right-leaning decrease)
• SSK slip, slip, knit (left-leaning decrease)
• M1L/M1R make 1 left/right (optional substitute for Kfb)
• PM/SM place marker / slip marker
• PUK pick up and knit
• Cont continue
• Rep repeat

Skills you’ll use: knitting in the round (Magic Loop or DPNs), basic increases/decreases, simple shaping, duplicate stitch embroidery for polka dots, light seaming.

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Finished Measurements

• Pig height: 24–26 cm (9½–10″)
• Romper to fit the pig with a little ease; legs mid-calf length

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Pattern Overview (read before you start)

• Work the head first, then narrow for the neck and increase out for the torso—all in one piece.
• Split for legs, finishing each foot separately.
• Arms, ears, snout, and tail are separate pieces sewn on after stuffing.
• Romper is knit bottom-up: two legs in the round, then joined for the body, with a small back opening so it slides on and off. Dots are added at the end with duplicate stitch (or do simple stranded spots if you prefer).

📌Thank you for reading the article.

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The Pig — Step-by-Step

Head (worked in the round, top-down)

Using light pink and 3.25 mm needles, CO 8 sts, join to work in the round, PM for start.

1. Rnd 1: Kfb around – 16 sts
2. Rnd 2: (K1, Kfb) around – 24 sts
3. Rnd 3: (K2, Kfb) around – 32 sts
4. Rnd 4: (K3, Kfb) around – 40 sts
5. Rnd 5: (K4, Kfb) around – 48 sts
6. Rnd 6–13: K 8 rnds even – 48 sts
7. Rnd 14: (K6, K2tog) x6 – 42 sts
8. Rnd 15: K
9. Rnd 16: (K5, K2tog) x6 – 36 sts
10. Rnd 17: K
11. Rnd 18: (K4, K2tog) x6 – 30 sts
12. Rnd 19: K
13. Rnd 20: (K3, K2tog) x6 – 24 sts

Tip: If using safety eyes, place them now between Rnd 10–11, about 6–7 sts apart, centered. For embroidered eyes, add later.

14. Rnd 21 (neck ridge): Purl around – 24 sts
    This purl round crisps the neck line.

Body (seamless, continuing down)

We’ll increase from the neck into a round tummy.

15. Rnd 22: (K3, Kfb) x6 – 30 sts
16. Rnd 23: K
17. Rnd 24: (K4, Kfb) x6 – 36 sts
18. Rnd 25: K
19. Rnd 26: (K5, Kfb) x6 – 42 sts
20. Rnd 27: K
21. Rnd 28: (K6, Kfb) x6 – 48 sts
22. Rnd 29: K
23. Rnd 30: (K7, Kfb) x6 – 54 sts

Rnds 31–48: K 18 rnds even at 54 sts for a nice body length (stuff lightly as you go if that’s easier).

Divide for Legs

We’ll split the body into two equal leg tubes.

• Place the first 27 sts on Needle A and the remaining 27 sts on Needle B. You’ll work one leg at a time in the round.

Right Leg

With the 27 sts from Needle A:

1. Rnds 1–10: K 10 rnds even – 27 sts
2. Rnd 11 (ankle shaping): (K7, K2tog) x3 – 24 sts
3. Rnds 12–15: K 4 rnds even
4. Rnd 16 (foot increase): (K3, Kfb) x6 – 30 sts
5. Rnds 17–22: K 6 rnds even
6. Rnd 23: (K3, K2tog) x6 – 24 sts
7. Rnd 24 (even): K
8. Rnd 25: (K2, K2tog) x6 – 18 sts
9. Rnd 26 (even): K
10. Rnd 27: (K1, K2tog) x6 – 12 sts
11. Rnd 28: K2tog around – 6 sts

Cut yarn, thread tail through remaining sts, pull tight. Stuff leg and foot firmly.

Left Leg

Join yarn to the 27 held sts and repeat Right Leg instructions.

Stuffing note: After completing both legs, return to the body cavity through the leg openings and firm up the tummy stuffing so the pig can sit nicely.

Arms (make 2, in the round)

Using pink:

1. CO 12 sts, join in the round – 12 sts
2. Rnd 1: (K3, Kfb) x3 – 15 sts
3. Rnd 2: (K4, Kfb) x3 – 18 sts
4. Rnds 3–16: K 14 rnds even – 18 sts
5. Rnd 17: (K1, K2tog) x6 – 12 sts
6. Rnd 18: K2tog x6 – 6 sts

Cut yarn, draw through remaining sts, pull closed. Lightly stuff, keeping the top flatter for easy sewing.

Ears (make 2)

Worked small and slightly cupped.

1. CO 6 sts, join in round – 6 sts
2. Rnd 1: Kfb around – 12 sts
3. Rnd 2: (K1, Kfb) around – 18 sts
4. Rnds 3–6: K 4 rnds even – 18 sts
5. Rnd 7: (K1, K2tog) around – 12 sts
6. Rnd 8: (K2tog) around – 6 sts

Bind off all 6 sts loosely and flatten the little cup. Leave a long tail for sewing. (If you prefer a floppier ear, skip Rnd 8 and BO 12 sts flat, then fold.)

📌Thank you for reading the article.

Snout

1. CO 6 sts, join – 6 sts
2. Rnd 1: Kfb around – 12 sts
3. Rnd 2: (K1, Kfb) around – 18 sts
4. Rnds 3–6: K 4 rnds even – 18 sts
5. Rnd 7: (K1, K2tog) around – 12 sts
6. Rnd 8: K – 12 sts

Cut yarn, leave a long tail. Lightly stuff and pull the opening almost closed; you’ll finish shaping when you sew it on.

Tail (curly I-cord)

With pink, CO 3 sts onto a DPN and work a 3-st I-cord for 10–12 cm (4–5″). BO. Twist into a gentle curl.

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Assembly & Face

1. Stuffing: Ensure the head and body are evenly stuffed. The purl ridge creates the neck line naturally.
2. Ears: Pin the ears on top of the head, slightly forward and about 8–9 sts apart. Stitch around the base neatly.
3. Snout: Center on the face (middle of head height), stitch around the edge, shaping into a soft oval. Embroider two vertical nostrils with dark thread.
4. Eyes: For the safest option, embroider small horizontal seed stitches or French knots using dark yarn/thread, placed symmetrically about 6–7 sts apart and slightly above the snout. If you use safety eyes, ensure they are locked securely and are not suitable for children under 3.
5. Arms: Sew to the sides of the body just below the neck ridge, making sure both arms hang evenly.
6. Tail: Secure the I-cord to the lower back, stitching in a small spiral to keep the curl.
7. Final shaping: Massage stuffing as needed so the pig stands/sits nicely.

Your basic pig is complete! Now let’s dress them.

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Removable Romper — Step-by-Step

Leg 1

With romper color (dark pink) and 3.25 mm needles:

1. CO 24 sts, join in round – 24 sts
2. Rnds 1–3: (K1, P1) rib – 24 sts
3. Rnds 4–15: K 12 rnds even.

Place these 24 sts on a holder.

Leg 2

Work the same as Leg 1, but do not break yarn.

Join Legs for Body

• With Leg 2 working yarn, CO 4 sts (crotch bridge), PM at center of these 4 sts—the back center.
• Knit across 24 sts of Leg 1, CO 4 sts (front bridge), then knit across the 24 sts of Leg 2 to join in one large round.

You now have 24 + 4 + 24 + 4 = 56 sts in total.

Romper Body

1. Rnd 1: Knit around – 56 sts
2. Rnd 2 (shaping): (K12, K2tog) x4 – 52 sts
3. Rnds 3–12: K 10 rnds even – 52 sts
4. Rnd 13 (gentle waist): (K11, K2tog) x4 – 48 sts
5. Rnds 14–22: K 9 rnds even – 48 sts

Form Back Opening & Armholes (work flat from here)

Place a marker at the center back (over the crotch bridge marker). Turn to work back and forth.

Row 1 (WS): Purl across – 48 sts
Row 2 (RS): K18, BO 4 (right armhole), K8, BO 4 (left armhole), K14 – you will have 40 sts live (18 + 8 + 14).
Row 3 (WS): Purl across, casting on 2 sts over each bound-off armhole with backward loop as you pass them – 44 sts.
Rows 4–7: Work stockinette (RS knit, WS purl) evenly on 44 sts for 4 more rows.

Shape Neckline & Shoulders

We’ll create a soft scoop neck with small shoulder tabs.

• Row 8 (RS): K12, BO 20 center sts for neck, K12 – two shoulder sections with 12 sts each remain.
• Work each shoulder separately:

Right Shoulder Tab

1. Row 1 (WS): Purl – 12 sts
2. Row 2 (RS): (K1, P1) rib across – 12 sts
3. Row 3 (WS): Rib back – 12 sts
4. Row 4 (RS): Rib, make a yarn-over buttonhole near the neck edge (K2, YO, K2tog, rib to end).
5. Row 5 (WS): Rib back, working YO as a stitch.
6. BO loosely in rib.

Left Shoulder Tab
Rejoin yarn at neck edge and work Rows 1–5 as for Right Shoulder without a buttonhole (this will be the button side). BO in rib.

Neckline Trim (white collar)

With white and smaller needles (3.0 mm recommended), PUK evenly around the neck edge (including the ends of shoulder tabs) for about 46–50 sts depending on your pick-up—just keep it even.

• Row 1 (WS): Purl.
• Row 2 (RS): (K2tog, YO) repeat around for a tiny picot effect.
• Row 3 (WS): Purl.
• BO loosely purlwise.

Finishing the Back Opening

• Work one row of single crochet or a neat sewn edge up each side of the back opening if desired (optional).
• Sew one or two small buttons to the left tab; the buttonhole is on the right tab.
• Weave in all ends neatly.

Add the Polka Dots (duplicate stitch)

Thread white yarn on a tapestry needle. Using duplicate stitch, copy the “V” of the knit stitch to form 1-stitch dots spaced roughly every 4 sts horizontally and every 4 rows vertically. Stagger them so the dots sit in alternating columns. Add more or fewer spots as you like. Keep floats on the yarn back short and neatly woven.

Colorwork option: Confident with two-color knitting? You can knit simple 1-stitch white spots following the same spacing while working the body in the round. Keep floats loose and no longer than 3 sts.

Slip the romper onto your pig, fasten the shoulder button(s), and admire!

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Finishing Touches

• Face details: If you embroidered the eyes and nostrils after assembly, secure all thread tails well on the inside and bury the ends so they don’t show.
• Shaping: A tiny stitch through the back of the head to the neck can gently tilt the chin if you want more personality.
• Blocking: Toys usually don’t need blocking; if you do block the romper only, steam lightly without squashing the dots.
• Safety: For babies or toddlers, skip buttons and safety eyes and embroider everything securely.

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Tips for Beginners

• Dense fabric wins. If you see stuffing peeking through, go down a needle size.
• Use markers. Put a marker at the start of each round and another where you plan to place the snout so you stay centered.
• Stuff in layers. Add a little stuffing, then knit a bit, then add more. It avoids lumps.
• Mirror pieces. When sewing arms and ears, pin and compare before committing.
• Duplicate stitch rehearsal. Practice dots on a swatch first to find spacing you like.