The Climbing Clematis Bunny is a breathtaking example of amigurumi artistry, designed for the advanced fiber artist who finds inspiration in the elegant twists of a garden trellis. This sophisticated character features a soft, sandy-beige rabbit base, dressed in a stunning deep violet gown adorned with intricate green vine embroidery and 3D clematis blossoms. To achieve the high-definition texture and heirloom quality seen in this design, it is essential to buy premium mercerized cotton yarn and purchase professional-grade ergonomic crochet hooks that allow for precise tension control during long embroidery sessions. Many dedicated crafters choose to order high-quality amigurumi supplies, including specialized safety eyes and high-density polyester fiberfill, through trusted online platforms like Amazon to ensure their materials meet the standards of luxury handmade toys. This project is a significant investment of your creative time, resulting in a stunning centerpiece that showcases advanced skills in garment construction, surface embroidery, and miniature creature sculpting. The inclusion of a tiny sugar glider companion and a glowing garden lantern adds a narrative of nocturnal garden magic, making this bunny a perfect addition to a collection for those who shop for artisan handmade dolls.

Please note: I strive for accuracy in every pattern, but occasional errors can happen. Thank you for understanding and for enjoying my designs.

Comprehensive Material List and Preparation

Creating the Climbing Clematis Bunny requires a refined selection of materials to capture the contrast between the deep purple dress and the vibrant green vines. Because the embroidery adds weight and texture to the fabric, the foundation of the bunny must be stuffed very firmly to maintain her posture. Consistency in your yarn weight is vital for ensuring the garments fit the body precisely.

• Main Body Yarn: Sand or Light Beige Sport weight cotton (approx. 150g). A smooth finish is best for stitch definition.
• Dress Base and Hat: Deep Violet or Royal Purple cotton yarn (approx. 100g).
• Cardigan Yarn: Grey or Silver-Grey cotton yarn (approx. 50g).
• Embroidery Detail: Leaf Green yarn for the vines and leaves; Lavender and Purple yarn for the 3D clematis flowers.
• Sugar Glider Companion: Off-White and Light Grey yarn (approx. 30g total).
• Lantern and Sandals: Sage Green yarn for the lantern cage; Tan/Sand yarn for the gladiator sandals.
• Crochet Hooks: A 2.25mm hook for the bunny body and miniature figures; a 2.75mm hook for the clothing to provide a softer drape.
• Safety Eyes: 12mm solid black safety eyes for the rabbit; 5mm eyes for the sugar glider.
• Stuffing: Premium grade, anti-allergenic polyester fiberfill with high rebound.
• Embroidery Floss: Dark brown (for bunny nose/mouth) and pink (for the sugar glider’s nose).
• Notions: Long tapestry needle for limb attachment, sharp embroidery needle, stitch markers, and pink cosmetic blush for shading.
• Lighting: A small LED tea light to place inside the lantern (optional).

Common Stitch Abbreviations and Tension Guide

The instructions utilize standard United States terminology. Please ensure your tension is firm throughout the amigurumi portions to prevent the stuffing from showing through the fabric. For the dress embroidery, keep your tension relaxed to avoid puckering the base fabric.

• MR: Magic Ring (the foundation for circular work).
• sc: Single crochet.
• inc: Increase (work two single crochets into the same stitch).
• dec: Invisible decrease (work through the front loops only to reduce bulk).
• hdc: Half double crochet.
• dc: Double crochet.
• tr: Treble crochet.
• sl st: Slip stitch.
• ch: Chain stitch.
• BLO: Back loops only.
• FLO: Front loops only.
• st(s): Stitch or stitches.

Phase 1: The Sculpted Bunny Head

The head is designed as a large, rounded sphere with subtle tapering toward the muzzle to provide a gentle, soulful expression. We work in continuous spirals using the Sand yarn and the 2.25mm hook. It is vital to use a stitch marker at the beginning of each round to maintain an accurate count during the shaping of the cheeks.

1. Round 1: Start with a MR and place 6 sc into the ring. (6)
2. Round 2: Work 1 inc in every stitch around the circle. (12)
3. Round 3: Perform a sequence of *1 sc, 1 inc* repeated 6 times. (18)
4. Round 4: Perform a sequence of *2 sc, 1 inc* repeated 6 times. (24)
5. Round 5: Perform a sequence of *3 sc, 1 inc* repeated 6 times. (30)
6. Round 6: Perform a sequence of *4 sc, 1 inc* repeated 6 times. (36)
7. Round 7: Perform a sequence of *5 sc, 1 inc* repeated 6 times. (42)
8. Round 8: Perform a sequence of *6 sc, 1 inc* repeated 6 times. (48)
9. Round 9: Perform a sequence of *7 sc, 1 inc* repeated 6 times. (54)
10. Round 10: Perform a sequence of *8 sc, 1 inc* repeated 6 times. (60)
11. Round 11: Perform a sequence of *9 sc, 1 inc* repeated 6 times. (66)
12. Rounds 12-25: Work 1 sc in each of the 66 stitches around. This long section builds the vertical height of the face. (66)
13. Round 26: Perform a sequence of *9 sc, 1 dec* repeated 6 times. (60)
14. Round 27: Perform a sequence of *8 sc, 1 dec* repeated 6 times. (54)
15. Round 28: Perform a sequence of *7 sc, 1 dec* repeated 6 times. (48)
16. Placement: Insert the 12mm safety eyes between rounds 18 and 19, leaving approximately 12 stitches of space between them. Ensure they are perfectly level.
17. Round 29: Perform a sequence of *6 sc, 1 dec* repeat 6 times. (42)
18. Round 30: Perform a sequence of *5 sc, 1 dec* repeat 6 times. (36)
19. Stuffing: Begin stuffing the head firmly. Focus on pushing the fiberfill toward the sides to define the rounded cheeks.
20. Round 31: Perform a sequence of *4 sc, 1 dec* repeat 6 times. (30)
21. Round 32: Perform a sequence of *3 sc, 1 dec* repeat 6 times. (24)
22. Round 33: Perform a sequence of *2 sc, 1 dec* repeat 6 times. (18) Finish stuffing the head to a firm consistency.
23. Round 34: Perform a sequence of *1 sc, 1 dec* repeat 6 times. (12)
24. Round 35: 6 dec to close. (6) Fasten off and leave a long tail. Use a tapestry needle to pull the hole closed securely.

Facial Details and Muzzle Sculpting

To achieve the soulful expression of the rabbit, use a long strand of Sand yarn to perform eye sculpting. Insert the needle at the base of the head, exit near the inner corner of one eye, re-enter a stitch away, and pull back toward the base. Repeat for the other eye. This creates depth in the sockets. For the nose and mouth, use dark brown embroidery thread to embroider a small “Y” shape directly in the center of the face, approximately three rounds below the eyes. Apply pink blush to the cheeks and the center of the muzzle for a healthy garden glow.

Phase 2: Long Floppy Bunny Ears

The ears are a signature feature, requiring a long, flat construction that allows them to hang naturally beside the face. We do not stuff the ears to maintain flexibility. Make two pieces using the Sand yarn and the 2.25mm hook.

1. Round 1: Start with a MR and work 6 sc inside. (6)
2. Round 2: Work 1 inc into every stitch around. (12)
3. Round 3: Perform (1 sc, 1 inc) repeat 6 times. (18)
4. Round 4: Perform (2 sc, 1 inc) repeat 6 times. (24)
5. Round 5: Perform (3 sc, 1 inc) repeat 6 times. (30)
6. Rounds 6-15: Work 1 sc in each of the 30 stitches around. (30)
7. Round 16: Perform (8 sc, 1 dec) repeat 3 times. (27)
8. Rounds 17-25: sc in each st around. (27)
9. Round 26: Perform (7 sc, 1 dec) repeat 3 times. (24)
10. Rounds 27-35: sc in each st around. (24)
11. Round 36: Perform (6 sc, 1 dec) repeat 3 times. (21)
12. Rounds 37-45: sc in each st around. (21)
13. Round 46: Perform (5 sc, 1 dec) repeat 3 times. (18)
14. Rounds 47-65: sc in each st around. (18) The extra length is vital for the vintage silhouette.
15. Flatten the base of the ear and perform 9 sc through both layers to close the opening. Fasten off and leave a very long tail for sewing to the top of the head at round 6 during assembly.

Phase 3: The Sturdy Bunny Torso

The body is shaped to stand stably while providing a solid frame for the heavy embroidered dress. We work from the neck down. Use Sand yarn and maintain firm tension.

1. Round 1: MR, 6 sc. (6)
2. Round 2: 6 inc. (12)
3. Round 3: (1 sc, 1 inc) repeat around. (18)
4. Round 4: (2 sc, 1 inc) repeat around. (24)
5. Round 5: (3 sc, 1 inc) repeat around. (30)
6. Round 6: (4 sc, 1 inc) repeat around. (36)
7. Rounds 7-18: sc in each st around. (36)
8. Round 19: (5 sc, 1 inc) repeat around. (42)
9. Round 20: (6 sc, 1 inc) repeat around. (48)
10. Round 21: (7 sc, 1 inc) repeat around. (54)
11. Round 22: (8 sc, 1 inc) repeat around. (60)
12. Rounds 23-38: sc in each st around. (60) This builds a wide, stable base.
13. Round 39: (8 sc, 1 dec) repeat around. (54)
14. Round 40: (7 sc, 1 dec) repeat around. (48)
15. Round 41: (6 sc, 1 dec) repeat around. (42)
16. Round 42: (5 sc, 1 dec) repeat around. (36) Stuff the lower torso very firmly.
17. Round 43: (4 sc, 1 dec) repeat around. (30)
18. Round 44: (3 sc, 1 dec) repeat around. (24)
19. Round 45: 12 dec to close. (12) Fasten off.

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Phase 4: Slender Arms and Stable Legs

The limbs of the bunny are long and slender. Use Sand yarn for all four components. Stuff the hands and feet firmly, but leave the upper halves slightly softer to allow for natural movement.

Bunny Arms (Make 2)

1. Round 1: MR, 6 sc. (6)
2. Round 2: (1 sc, 1 inc) repeat 3 times. (9)
3. Round 3: (2 sc, 1 inc) repeat 3 times. (12)
4. Rounds 4-30: sc in each stitch around. (12)
5. Flatten the top and work 6 sc across both layers to close. Sew to the sides of the torso at Round 6 of the body.

Bunny Legs (Make 2)

1. Round 1: MR, 6 sc. (6)
2. Round 2: 6 inc. (12)
3. Round 3: (1 sc, 1 inc) repeat 6 times. (18)
4. Round 4: (2 sc, 1 inc) repeat 6 times. (24)
5. Rounds 5-35: sc in each stitch around. (24)
6. Stuff the feet very firmly. Flatten the top and work 12 sc across to close. Sew to the bottom sides of the torso so the bunny stands with stability.

Phase 5: The Violet Clematis Dress

The dress is the centerpiece of the character’s wardrobe, featuring an A-line silhouette that serves as a canvas for the clematis vines. Use the Dark Violet yarn and the 2.75mm hook. The dress is worked from the waist down in rounds.

Bodice Construction

1. Row 1: Ch 31. Starting in the 2nd ch from hook, work 30 sc. Ch 1, turn.
2. Rows 2-8: Work sc 30 across to build the bodice height.
3. Round 9 (Waist): Join with a sl st to the first st to work in rounds. (30)
4. Round 10: (sc 2, inc) around. (40)
5. Round 11: (sc 3, inc) around. (50)
6. Rounds 12-25: Work in dc for each stitch around to create a smooth fabric for embroidery. (50)
7. Round 26 (Hem): Work a simple sc round. Fasten off.

Clematis Vine Embroidery

Using Green yarn and a tapestry needle, surface slip stitch or embroider a winding vine starting from the bottom hem and curving up across the chest. Add small leaves along the vine.

3D Clematis Blossoms: Using Purple yarn, crochet small flowers separately and sew them onto the vine.

Flower Pattern: MR, (ch 4, tr, ch 4, sl st) into the ring 5 times. Make 5-6 flowers and attach them to the dress.

Phase 6: The Grey Bolero Cardigan

The cardigan provides a neutral contrast to the vibrant dress. Use the Grey yarn and the 2.75mm hook. It is worked in rows to create an open front.

1. Row 1: Ch 33. Starting in the second ch, work 32 sc across. Ch 1, turn.
2. Row 2: (sc 1, inc) across to increase width. (48)
3. Row 3: sc in each st across. (48)
4. Row 4 (Armholes): 8 sc, ch 10, skip 8 sts, 16 sc, ch 10, skip 8 sts, 8 sc.
5. Row 5: Work sc across the entire row, including the chains. (52)
6. Rows 6-12: sc in each st across. Fasten off.
7. Sleeves: Join Grey yarn to the armhole. Work 15 sc in a circle for 15 rounds to create long sleeves.

Phase 7: The Clematis Cloche Hat

The hat sits elegantly on the head and features a matching vine embroidery. Use the Violet yarn and the 2.75mm hook.

1. Round 1: 6 sc in a MR. (6)
2. Round 2: 6 inc. (12)
3. Round 3: (1 sc, inc) repeat around. (18)
4. Round 4: (2 sc, inc) repeat around. (24)
5. Round 5: (3 sc, inc) repeat around. (30)
6. Round 6: (4 sc, inc) repeat around. (36)
7. Round 7: (5 sc, inc) repeat around. (42)
8. Round 8: (6 sc, inc) repeat around. (48)
9. Rounds 9-13: sc in each st around. (48)
10. Round 14 (Brim): Work in FLO. (sc 2, inc) around. (64)
11. Round 15: sc around. Fasten off.
12. Decoration: Embroider a green vine and sew two purple clematis flowers to the side of the hat brim.

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Phase 8: Miniature Companion and Accessories

The Sugar Glider

This tiny pet “flies” next to the bunny. Use White and Grey yarn.

1. Body: In Grey, MR 6 sc. R2: 12 sc. R3-10: 12 sc. R11: dec around. Stuff and close.
2. Head: In White, MR 6 sc. R2: 12 sc. R3: 18 sc. Sew to the top of the body. Add grey patches around the eyes.
3. Wings: In White, ch 6. Work 3 rows of sc. Sew between the front and back limbs on each side.
4. Limbs: 4 tiny grey cylinders sewn to the body.
5. Tail: Ch 15 in Grey. sc back down. Sew to the rear.

Sage Green Garden Lantern

1. Base: In Sage Green, MR 6 sc. R2: 12 sc. R3: BLO 12 sc.
2. Cage: (ch 4, skip 1, sc in next) around for 5 rounds to create the open lattice.
3. Top: sc around to close the top. Add a small loop for a handle.
4. Glow: Insert a small LED tea light inside for a magical effect.

Phase 9: Gladiator Sandals

Make two shoes using Tan yarn.

1. Sole: Ch 7. Work 2 sc in 2nd ch, sc 3, 4 sc in last. Rotate. sc 3, 2 sc in last. (14)
2. Round 2: inc around the curves, sc on the sides. (20)
3. Heel: Work sc across 8 stitches at the back for 3 rows.
4. Straps: Ch 15. Criss-cross the chain over the foot and attach to the other side of the heel cup. Repeat to create the gladiator look up the ankle.

Final Assembly and Styling

Assembling the components with precision is what gives the bunny its lifelike quality. Follow these final steps to bring your Climbing Clematis Bunny to life. Consistency in the alignment of the head and ears is the most important factor in capturing the character’s personality.

• Joining the Body: Sew the head firmly to the torso opening. Ensure the neck is stuffed very firmly so the head does not wobble under the weight of the floppy ears and hat.
• Ear placement: Pin the long ears to Round 6 of the head. Check from the front to ensure they are symmetrical and centered before sewing them securely. They should hang straight down behind the bunny’s shoulders.
• Dressing: Slide the violet dress onto the bunny first. Layer the grey cardigan over her arms. Put the tan gladiator sandals on her feet.
• Styling: Place the cloche hat on the head, pulling it slightly forward for a jaunty, vintage look. Ensure the embroidered vines are visible.
• Final Touches: Position the garden lantern near the bunny’s feet. Attach the sugar glider to the bunny’s hand or dress using a small hidden stitch or velcro dot so it appears to be climbing.
• Finishing Polish: Inspect your work for any loose yarn tails. Use your needle to pull any ends deep into the stuffing. Re-apply the pink cheek blush if it has faded during assembly.

Your Climbing Clematis Bunny is now complete! This character serves as a stunning tribute to traditional handcraft and botanical aesthetics. Store your finished doll in a dry place away from direct sunlight to preserve the vibrancy of the violet and green hues. We hope you enjoyed the meticulous process of building this character and that she brings a touch of garden magic to your home.

Would you like to learn how to add a small lace edge to the cardigan, or perhaps receive guidance on creating a matching miniature trellis for your bunny to stand near?