Meet the Matcha Café Bear – a sweet amigurumi barista dressed in a soft green apron dress, a little cream shirt, dark brown shoes, and a minty beret. She carries a tiny “MATCHA” takeaway bag and a crocheted cup of matcha with whipped cream on a wooden tray – perfect for photos on your sofa, desk or coffee corner.
Please note: I strive for accuracy in every pattern, but occasional errors can happen. Thank you for understanding and for enjoying my designs.
Abbreviations (US Terms)
- MR – magic ring
- ch – chain
- sc – single crochet
- hdc – half double crochet
- dc – double crochet
- sl st – slip stitch
- inc – increase (2 sc in same stitch)
- dec – invisible decrease (sc 2 sts together)
- BLO – back loop only
- FLO – front loop only
- st(s) – stitch(es)
- R – Round/Row
All rounds are worked in a continuous spiral unless otherwise stated. Use a stitch marker to mark the first stitch of each round.
Materials
- DK weight (category 3) yarn in:
- Light caramel or beige for bear
- Cream/white for shirt and whipped cream
- Matcha green for dress, cup, and beret
- Dark brown for nose and shoes
- Light kraft/tan for takeaway bag and tray
- Small amount of darker green for leaf embroidery and “MATCHA” letters
- Crochet hook: 2.5–3.0 mm (choose size that gives you tight stitches)
- 8–10 mm black safety eyes
- Polyester fiberfill stuffing
- Yarn needle for sewing and embroidery
- Stitch markers and scissors
Gauge & Finished Size
Exact gauge is not critical, but stitches should be tight so stuffing does not show. With DK yarn and 2.75 mm hook, the finished bear stands about 18–20 cm (7–8″) tall, similar to a small shelf or desk doll.
General Notes
- Stuff firmly but evenly as you go, especially the head and legs so the bear can stand with support.
- Always place invisible decreases on the “sides” when shaping where possible for a smooth front.
- Colors can be adjusted, but to stay close to the sample: caramel body, cream shirt, green dress and beret, dark brown shoes.
- Read through the Construction Overview before starting so you know the order of pieces.
Construction Overview
The bear is made in separate pieces: head, muzzle, ears, body, arms, legs with shoes, and a small tail. After assembling the bear, you will crochet the outfit: undershirt collar and sleeve cuffs, apron dress, beret, and shoes detailing. Finally, you’ll add the accessories – matcha cup with whipped cream, wooden tray, and takeaway bag – and embroider the facial details and tiny leaf motif.
Head
Use body color (caramel).
R1: MR, 6 sc (6)
R2: inc around (12)
R3: (sc, inc) x 6 (18)
R4: (2 sc, inc) x 6 (24)
R5: (3 sc, inc) x 6 (30)
R6: (4 sc, inc) x 6 (36)
R7: (5 sc, inc) x 6 (42)
R8: (6 sc, inc) x 6 (48)
R9–R16: sc in each st around (48, 8 rounds)
Place safety eyes between R11 and R12, about 7–8 sts apart, centered on the front.
R17: (6 sc, dec) x 6 (42)
R18: (5 sc, dec) x 6 (36)
R19: (4 sc, dec) x 6 (30)
Begin stuffing and keep stuffing firmly as you close.
R20: (3 sc, dec) x 6 (24)
R21: (2 sc, dec) x 6 (18)
R22: (sc, dec) x 6 (12)
Finish stuffing. Fasten off, weave yarn tail through front loops of remaining sts and pull tight to close. Weave in end.
Muzzle
Use body color.
R1: MR, 6 sc (6)
R2: inc around (12)
R3: (sc, inc) x 6 (18)
R4–R5: sc in each st around (18, 2 rounds)
Lightly stuff, flatten slightly into an oval. Fasten off leaving a long tail for sewing.
With dark brown yarn, embroider an oval nose centered on the top of the muzzle, then a short vertical line and a small “Y” shaped smile.
Ears (make 2)
Use body color.
R1: MR, 6 sc (6)
R2: (sc, inc) x 3 (9)
R3: (2 sc, inc) x 3 (12)
R4–R5: sc in each st around (12, 2 rounds)
Do not stuff. Flatten the ear, sew the opening closed with a few stitches. Leave a tail for sewing.
Body
Use body color.
R1: MR, 6 sc (6)
R2: inc around (12)
R3: (sc, inc) x 6 (18)
R4: (2 sc, inc) x 6 (24)
R5: (3 sc, inc) x 6 (30)
R6: (4 sc, inc) x 6 (36)
R7–R10: sc in each st around (36, 4 rounds)
R11: (4 sc, dec) x 6 (30)
R12: (3 sc, dec) x 6 (24)
R13–R14: sc in each st around (24, 2 rounds)
R15: (2 sc, dec) x 6 (18)
R16: sc in each st around (18)
Stuff body firmly, shaping it slightly pear-like (wider at bottom). Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing the head later.
The top opening (R16) is the neck.
Legs with Shoes (make 2)
Start with shoe color (dark brown).
R1: MR, 6 sc (6)
R2: inc around (12)
R3: (sc, inc) x 6 (18)
R4: sc in each st around (18)
R5: (sc, dec) x 6 (12)
Change to body color (caramel).
R6–R13: sc in each st around (12, 8 rounds)
Stuff the leg as you go, keeping the bottom of the shoe flat but firm.
Fasten off, leaving a tail for sewing. Flatten the top opening slightly; both legs should be the same length.
Arms (make 2)
Use body color.
R1: MR, 6 sc (6)
R2: inc around (12)
R3–R4: sc in each st around (12)
Change to cream (shirt sleeve).
R5–R10: sc in each st around (12, 6 rounds)
Lightly stuff the lower half of the arm; leave the upper part softer so it bends naturally.
Flatten the top opening and sew closed with a few stitches. Leave a tail for sewing to the body.
Tail
Use body color.
R1: MR, 6 sc (6)
R2: inc around (12)
R3–R4: sc in each st around (12, 2 rounds)
R5: (sc, dec) x 4 (8)
Stuff lightly, fasten off leaving tail for sewing. Shape into a small rounded nub.
Assembly: Bear
- Attach muzzle centered between the eyes, with the top edge just below the eye line. Sew around, adding a little extra stuffing under the muzzle as you close for a gentle protruding snout.
- Sew ears on top of the head, slightly forward, about 6–7 sts apart. Angle them so they tilt out a bit, like in the photo.
- Sew head to body: position the head directly on the neck opening; sew all around securely while holding head straight.
- Attach legs: sit the body upright and pin both legs to the bottom of the body at the front, leaving a small gap between them. Make sure the shoes face forward. Sew firmly so the bear can stand with support from décor or wall.
- Attach arms: sew arms to the sides of the body, slightly below the neckline so the paws hang just above the waistline. Curve one arm a little forward to hold the tray later.
- Attach tail at the lower back to help with balance.
Embroider small curved eyebrows over each eye using body-colored or slightly darker yarn for a soft expression, if desired.
Outfit – Tiny Cream Shirt Details
The shirt is suggested mainly by collar and sleeve cuffs.
Neckline collar
Join cream yarn at the back of the neck, working into the stitches of R16 of the body.
R1: sc in each st around the neck opening (18)
R2: (sc, inc) x 9 (27) – this flares the collar slightly.
Sl st to first st, fasten off and weave in ends, keeping the collar flat.
Sleeve cuffs
Join cream yarn at the lower edge of the cream section of each arm.
Work 1 round of FLO: (sc in each st around), sl st to join, fasten off. This creates a defined cuff line.
Outfit – Matcha Apron Dress
Use matcha green.
Skirt (worked in rounds, top down)
R1: Ch 36, join with sl st to form a ring (be careful not to twist). (36)
R2: sc in each ch around (36) – this is the waist.
R3: (5 sc, inc) x 6 (42)
R4: sc in each st around (42)
R5: (6 sc, inc) x 6 (48)
R6–R9: sc in each st around (48, 4 rounds)
Optional: work R9 in BLO to create a subtle hem line.
Fasten off and weave in the starting tail. This skirt should sit just above the shoes when dressed.
Waistband and Bib
Turn the skirt so the foundation chain (waist edge) is at top.
Join green yarn at any stitch on the waist edge.
Waistband Row 1 (FLO):
Ch 1, FLO sc in next 36 sts, turn. (36)
Row 2: Ch 1, sc in each st across, turn. (36)
Row 3: Ch 1, sc in each st across. Fasten off. (36)
Position the skirt on the bear: the waistband should sit snugly at the mid-body.
Front bib
Count 8 sts from one side seam, attach yarn in the 9th stitch on the waistband front.
Row 1: Ch 1, sc in next 12 sts, turn. (12)
Row 2–4: Ch 1, sc in each st across, turn. (12, 3 rows)
To echo the texture in the photo, work:
Row 5 (texture row): Ch 1, (sc, dc) alternating across (start with sc, end with dc), turn. (12)
Row 6: Ch 1, sc in each st across. Fasten off and weave in ends. (12)
With darker green yarn, embroider a simple two-leaf motif in the center of the bib.
Straps (make 2)
Attach green yarn at top corner of the bib.
Ch 16–18 (enough to reach over the shoulder and down to the back waistband), sl st to the back waistband at the corresponding point. Fasten off and weave in.
Repeat for the other side. Make sure both straps are the same length and slightly crossed at the back for a neat look.
Outfit – Beret
Use matcha green.
R1: MR, 6 sc (6)
R2: inc around (12)
R3: (sc, inc) x 6 (18)
R4: (2 sc, inc) x 6 (24)
R5: (3 sc, inc) x 6 (30)
R6: (4 sc, inc) x 6 (36)
R7–R8: sc in each st around (36)
R9: (4 sc, dec) x 6 (30)
R10: (3 sc, dec) x 6 (24) – this begins to hug the head.
R11 (BLO): sc in each st around (24) – forms the band.
Fasten off, weave in ends.
Top stem:
Attach yarn at the center of the beret top, ch 4, sl st back into same st, fasten off. Weave tail to anchor.
Place the beret slightly tilted to one side on the bear’s head.
Shoes Detailing
To accent the shoe straps:
With dark brown yarn, embroider a horizontal line across the top of each shoe, about 2 rounds above the sole, to mimic a Mary Jane strap. Add a tiny vertical stitch on the outside to represent a button.
Accessory – Matcha Cup
Cup
Use matcha green.
R1: MR, 6 sc (6)
R2: (sc, inc) x 3 (9)
R3: sc in each st around (9)
R4: BLO sc in each st around (9) – creates the base ridge.
R5–R7: sc in each st around (9, 3 rounds)
Fasten off, leaving tail. Lightly stuff.
Whipped Cream Top
Use cream.
R1: MR, 6 sc (6)
R2: (sc, inc) x 3 (9)
R3: (sl st, ch 2, sl st in next st) repeat around to create small ruffles. Fasten off.
Sew the whipped-cream piece on top of the cup, shaping it slightly pointed.
Straw
Use green.
Ch 5–6, make a sl st in second ch from hook and back along chain to make a firm strip. Fasten off. Sew one end into the whipped cream so the straw leans slightly.
Accessory – Wooden Tray
Use tan/brown (kraft color).
R1: MR, 6 sc (6)
R2: (sc, inc) x 3 (9)
R3: (2 sc, inc) x 3 (12)
R4: (3 sc, inc) x 3 (15)
R5 (BLO): sc in each st around (15)
This forms a shallow lip. Fasten off and weave in ends. Place the cup on top and stitch it lightly to the center of the tray so it doesn’t fall.
Shape the bear’s right paw slightly to curve under the tray; sew the edge of the tray lightly to the paw.
Accessory – Matcha Takeaway Bag
Use kraft/tan.
R1: Ch 7, sc in 2nd ch from hook and across (6), turn.
R2–R5: Ch 1, sc in each st across (6, 4 rows)
This is the front panel. Make two panels.
Hold the two panels together. With same yarn, sc around three sides to join (left, bottom, right), leaving the top open.
For a flat base, pinch the two bottom corners and stitch a tiny diagonal seam on each corner.
Handles (make 2)
Ch 12, fasten off. Sew both ends of each chain to the inside top edge of the bag to form two handles.
With darker green yarn, embroider the word MATCHA in capital letters across the front of the bag.
You can leave the bag separate, or stitch it to the bear’s left paw.
Final Finishing & Styling
- Check all pieces are sewn securely, especially small accessories if the doll is for a child.
- Gently roll the skirt hem between your fingers to smooth it. Adjust straps and tighten any loose stitches.
- Place the beret slightly forward, just touching the tops of the ears for the same cozy look as in the sample photo.
- Set your Matcha Café Bear on a wooden table, near a plant or on a sofa arm, and take photos in natural light to highlight the visible stitches and pastel colors.
Your Matcha Café Bear amigurumi is ready to serve a tiny cup of matcha and brighten any corner of your home!
