Introduction

Meet the Campus Bookworm Turtle—a scholarly amigurumi with a navy beret, classic argyle vest, olive joggers with a mustard drawstring, brown lace-up oxfords, and a tiny backpack stuffed with books. This free pattern is written from scratch to match the photos precisely, with removable clothing and sturdy shoes so your turtle stands proudly on a wooden table, shelf, or cozy reading nook.

Skill level: Confident beginner to intermediate (shaping, color finishing, simple accessories).
Construction overview: Head, muzzle, body, arms, and legs are crocheted separately and sewn. Shoes are worked bottom-up, then legs continue from the ankle. Clothing is removable. Argyle is added by duplicate stitch embroidery after the vest is crocheted.
Style notes: Tight, even stitches for a realistic fabric; gentle pastels and warm daylight vibes.

Please note: I strive for accuracy in every pattern, but occasional errors can happen. Thank you for understanding and for enjoying my designs.

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Materials & Tools

• Yarn (DK / light worsted, cotton or cotton-blend):
  1. Turtle skin: soft sage/olive (A) – ~60 g
  2. Shirt base (under vest neckline): cream (B) – scrap
  3. Vest: deep navy (C) – ~25 g
  4. Argyle embroidery: mustard (D), slate denim (E) – small scraps
  5. Joggers: olive (F) – ~35 g
  6. Drawstring: mustard (D) – scrap
  7. Shoes: chocolate brown (G) – ~20 g
  8. Beret: navy (C) – ~15 g
  9. Backpack: warm beige (H) – ~25 g; strap accent mustard (D)
  10. Book covers: teal (I), brick red (J); pages: cream (B)
• Hooks: 2.75 mm (US C) for body & shoes; 3.25 mm (US D) for clothing & accessories.
• Notions: 10–12 mm black safety eyes, stitch markers, tapestry needle, scissors, 1 small wooden/plastic button (~8–10 mm) for backpack, a little poly-pellet or flat coin for shoe weight (optional), hot glue (optional for laces ends).
• Stuffing: Polyester fiberfill, firmly packed.

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Gauge & Finished Size

• Gauge (2.75 mm, sc in the round): ~24 sts × 26 rnds = 4″ × 4″ (10 × 10 cm).
• Gauge (3.25 mm, hdc/dc for clothing): not critical, but keep fabric neat and not too loose.
• Finished height: ~10–10.5″ (25–27 cm).

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Abbreviations (US Terms)

• MR magic ring
• ch chain
• sc single crochet
• hdc half double crochet
• dc double crochet
• sl st slip stitch
• inc increase (2 sc in same st)
• dec invisible decrease (sc 2 sts together through front loops)
• BLO/FLO back/front loop only
• rep repeat
• st(s) stitch(es)
• rnd(s) round(s)
• RS/WS right/wrong side

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Notes

• Work in continuous rounds unless stated (use a marker).
• Stuff as you go, firm but smooth.
• Safety eyes are added before closing the head.
• To match the photo, place the face low on the head sphere; the muzzle sits between the eyes.
• Clothing is removable: do not sew to the body.
• For the argyle, we’ll embroider diamonds over the vest so lines look crisp.

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Color Key (quick)

A: sage skin | B: cream | C: navy | D: mustard | E: slate denim | F: olive | G: brown | H: beige | I: teal | J: brick

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Head – with A, 2.75 mm

1. MR 6 sc (6)
2. inc around (12)
3. (sc, inc) ×6 (18)
4. (2 sc, inc) ×6 (24)
5. (3 sc, inc) ×6 (30)
6. (4 sc, inc) ×6 (36)
7. (5 sc, inc) ×6 (42)
8. (6 sc, inc) ×6 (48)
   9–17. sc around 9 rnds (48)

Eye placement: Between rnds 12–13, spaced 12–13 sts apart. Insert 10–12 mm safety eyes.

18. (6 sc, dec) ×6 (42)
19. (5 sc, dec) ×6 (36) – Lightly stuff upper head
20. (4 sc, dec) ×6 (30)
21. (3 sc, dec) ×6 (24)
22. (2 sc, dec) ×6 (18) – Stuff firmly; shape cheeks by pressing while stuffing
23. (sc, dec) ×6 (12)
24. dec around (6), fasten off, weave tail.

📌Thank you for reading the article.

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Muzzle – with A

1. MR 6 sc (6)
2. inc around (12)
3. (sc, inc) ×6 (18)
   4–5. sc around (18)
4. (sc, dec) ×6 (12), sl st, leave a long tail.

Stuff softly, pin centered between eyes (touching the lower edges of eyes). Sew on. Using A, embroider a tiny vertical line for the nose and a subtle smile curve.

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Body – with A

1. MR 6 sc (6)
2. inc around (12)
3. (sc, inc) ×6 (18)
4. (2 sc, inc) ×6 (24)
5. (3 sc, inc) ×6 (30)
6. (4 sc, inc) ×6 (36)
7. (5 sc, inc) ×6 (42)
   8–12. sc around 5 rnds (42)
8. (5 sc, dec) ×6 (36)
9. (4 sc, dec) ×6 (30)
10. (3 sc, dec) ×6 (24)
11. BLO sc around (24) – waist ridge for tucking shirt look
    17–18. sc around (24)
12. (2 sc, dec) ×6 (18)
13. (sc, dec) ×6 (12)

Join head to body now or later; keep a long tail from head. Before closing, stuff firmly, shaping a slightly flat back (press gently) to mimic the clothing fit.

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Arms (make 2) – with A

1. MR 6 sc (6)
2. (sc, inc) ×3 (9)
   3–5. sc around (9)
3. (2 sc, inc) ×3 (12)
   7–12. sc around (12)
4. (sc, dec) ×4 (8), stuff lightly, flatten top and sl st through both layers to close. Leave a long tail to sew at shoulder later.

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Shoes & Legs

Shoes (make 2) – with G, 2.75 mm
Sole (worked in rows then rounds to form oval):

1. ch 7; from 2nd ch: 5 sc, 3 sc in last, rotate, 4 sc, inc in last (14)
2. inc, 4 sc, inc ×3, 4 sc, inc ×2 (20)
3. sc, inc, 4 sc, (sc, inc) ×3, 4 sc, (sc, inc) ×2 (26)
4. BLO sc around (26) – turn up wall
   5–6. sc around (26)
5. toe shaping: 8 sc, (dec) ×5, 8 sc (21)
6. 7 sc, (dec) ×3, 8 sc (18)
7. BLO 18 sc; sl st, leave a tail.

Insert optional flat weight/pellets in toe, stuff lightly.

Tongue & Collar:
Attach G to center front toe gap, ch 1, 6 sc back and forth for 3 rows; fasten off. For collar rim, join at back, FLO sl st around once to mimic stitched edge.

Laces: With G (or D for contrast), chain 40; thread as shoelaces, tie a bow. Dot of glue on tips optional.

Legs (continue from ankle) – with A
Join A at the back inside the shoe collar through BLO ridge.

1. Pick up 12 sc evenly around ankle opening (12)
   2–10. sc around (12)
2. (sc, inc) ×6 (18) – form calf
   12–14. sc around (18)
3. (2 sc, dec) ×4, 2 sc (14)
   Fasten off first leg. Repeat for second but do not cut yarn—we will join to start hips when attaching to body (or sew separately).

Join legs to body: Position legs centered under body, 3–4 sts apart. Sew securely. Ensure both soles sit flat.

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Joggers (removable) – with F, 3.25 mm

Work top-down in joined rounds.

1. ch 52, join without twist (52)
   2–3. hdc around (52)
2. Eyelets for drawstring: (hdc 4, ch 1, sk 1) ×8, then hdc to end adjusting evenly (approx 8 holes total).
3. hdc around (52)
4. Split for legs: hdc 24, skip 4 (crotch), hdc 24; join each leg separately.

Leg (make 2):

1. Reattach yarn to one leg, hdc around (24)
   2–7. hdc around (24)
2. BLO (hdc, hdc2tog) around (16)
3. BLO hdc around (16)
4. Cuff: switch to 2.75 mm, work (sc in BLO) around 3 rnds for rib look, sl st, fasten off.

Drawstring: With D, chain 70, feed through eyelets, tie bow center front.

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Oxfords Finish (optional contrast welt)

With G, surface sl st around shoe rim once; add a tiny vertical bar on heel to mimic back seam.

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Vest (navy) – with C, 3.25 mm

Back panel (worked flat):

1. ch 34; from 2nd ch, 33 hdc (33)
   2–10. ch 1, turn, hdc across (33)
2. Arm shaping: ch 1, turn, sk first st, hdc 31, sk last st (31)
   12–13. repeat dec both sides (29 then 27)
   14–18. hdc even (27)

Front panel (V-neck):

1. ch 34; 33 hdc (33)
   2–10. hdc across (33)
2. Arm shaping as back (31)
3. Split neck: work 15 hdc, turn; leaving center 1 st unworked, attach yarn to other side for mirrored half.

Left half:
13. ch 1, turn, hdc 15
14. dec 1 at neck edge, hdc to end (14)
15–17. repeat neck-edge dec every row to reach 12 sts; work even until total rows match back (row 18). Fasten off.

Right half:
Mirror rows 13–18.

Shoulders & side seams:
Seam shoulders (approx 6–7 sts each) and sides (leaving armholes).

Ribbing:

• Bottom rib: join C at hem, (sc BLO) around, join; work 3 rnds.
• Armhole rib: (sc BLO) around each armhole for 2 rnds.
• Neck rib + V point: pick up sc evenly around neckline; at V point work (sc, ch 1, sc) into the point for a crisp angle; 2 rnds total.

Argyle Embroidery (duplicate stitch)
Using D and E, embroider 3 rows of diamonds (mustard centered, slate accents) across the chest, keeping them symmetrical:

• Diamond width: ~3–4 sts wide; height: 4 rows.
• Place the mustard diamonds centered; slate diamonds offset to corners.
• Add small diagonal “stitch lines” with D to mimic classic argyle.

📌Thank you for reading the article.

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Beret – with C, 3.25 mm

1. MR 8 hdc (8)
2. inc around (16)
3. (hdc, inc) ×8 (24)
4. (2 hdc, inc) ×8 (32)
5. (3 hdc, inc) ×8 (40)
6. (4 hdc, inc) ×8 (48)
7. hdc around (48)
8. (6 hdc, dec) ×6 (42)
9. (5 hdc, dec) ×6 (36)
10. Band: switch to 2.75 mm, BLO sc around (36) for 2 rnds.
11. Nub: ch 3, sl st back into next st, fasten off. Slightly block to a soft dome.

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Backpack – with H, 3.25 mm

Body (worked as oval base then walls):

1. ch 9; from 2nd ch: 7 sc, 3 sc in last, rotate, 6 sc, inc in last (18)
2. inc, 6 sc, inc ×3, 6 sc, inc ×2 (24)
3. sc around in BLO (24)
   4–10. sc around (24) – stuff lightly at the end to keep shape.

Top & Flap:
11. work 12 sc only; turn, 12 sc for 3 rows to form back rise.
12. Flap shaping: ch 1, turn, dec, 8 sc, dec (10)
13. ch 1, turn, dec, 6 sc, dec (8)
14. ch 1, turn, sc across (8). Fasten off. Sew a small button to body; make a ch-loop under flap as closure.

Straps: With H, ch 22 each; sew top edges 2 sts apart, bottom edges 3 rnds above base. Add small mustard tabs (D) at strap tops for accent.

Side Pocket (book slot):
ch 10; 9 sc for 3 rows; seam short sides to backpack, leaving top open.

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Mini Books (2–3 pcs)

Pages: With B, ch 10; 9 sc × 4 rows; fasten off.
Cover: With I (or J), ch 12; 11 hdc × 3 rows; place “pages” inside, fold cover like a book, whipstitch along spine. Optionally embroider a tiny star patch on backpack side.

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Shirt Illusion (collar peek)

To mimic the cream tee under the vest, embroider a small V of B on the chest just above the vest neckline, or crochet a tiny collar piece: ch 18, sl st across; stitch to the top edge beneath vest.

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Assembly

1. Join head to body: Pin head on center; ladder stitch around, adding extra stuffing to the neck stump for firmness.
2. Attach arms: Sew at row where the body narrows (just under the vest line), arms pointing slightly forward.
3. Dress turtle: Put on joggers first; tie drawstring. Slide on vest; adjust V-neck. Place beret at a slight tilt.
4. Shoes: Tighten laces into neat bows. Check he stands flat; add a touch of stuffing inside shoe heels if needed.
5. Backpack & books: Put books into side pocket and main compartment; close flap with button.

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Face & Details

• Eyes: 10–12 mm, set low and wide. If using 10 mm, embroider a tiny ring of A to seat them.
• Mouth/Nose: With A, stitch a micro vertical line and a modest smile curve—keep it subtle for that curious expression.
• Cheek shaping (optional): From the back of the head, pull a strand of A through to the eye corners to slightly indent, knot inside.

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Finishing & Blocking

• Steam-block clothing only (not the stuffed body): hover steam to relax the vest and jogger cuffs.
• Trim all ends. If displaying on wood, consider a felt dot under each shoe for grip.

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Care & Styling

• Spot clean with mild soap; reshape while damp.
• Pair with a tiny mug prop and stacked mini notebooks for photo-ready “study” scenes. Natural daylight near a window recreates the cozy pastel look.

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Troubleshooting

• Head too wobbly: Add more stuffing to neck; insert a short dowel/coffee stirrer inside body-head joint (optional).
• Doesn’t stand: Ensure soles are truly flat; add pellets/washer in toes; tighten laces.
• Vest too tight/loose: Adjust starting chain by ±2 and keep stitch counts even; embroidery may tighten fabric slightly—block after stitching.

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Recap of Exact Look

• Colors: Sage body (A); navy beret & vest (C); mustard + slate argyle; olive joggers (F) with mustard drawstring (D); brown oxfords (G); beige backpack (H) with mustard tabs and tiny teal/brick books.
• Proportions: Large rounded head, low-set eyes, small muzzle, straight posture, cuffed joggers, neat bow laces, buttoned flap backpack.