Meet the Bubble Tea Sheep, a sweet, bouncy amigurumi dressed in a bobble-dot sweater, mesh twirl skirt with a bobble hem, Mary Jane shoes with tiny bows, a whipped-cream beret topped with a striped straw, and a crossbody bubble-tea cup bag with little “pearls” rattling inside.

Please note: I strive for accuracy in every pattern, but occasional errors can happen. Thank you for understanding and for enjoying my designs.

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Proportion & Build Analysis

• Overall height: ~9.5–10 in (24–25.5 cm) when made with DK cotton and a 2.5 mm hook.
• Head: Largest feature (about 55–60% of body height). A near-sphere with slight oval; widest at Rnd 18–22. Safety eyes sit low and wide for a baby look—about 8 stitches apart, centered horizontally, placed roughly 12–13 rounds up from the neck opening.
• Face features: No muzzle piece; simple embroidered mouth (V shape) under eyes.
• Ears: Low-set, slightly forward tilt; rounded ovals that curl down. Attach from the side, aligned with the lower third of eyes.
• Body: Pear/teardrop shape with a high waist seam to receive the skirt. Shoulders soft and narrow.
• Arms: Slim cylinders with a subtle cuff; sewn on slightly angled forward so hands rest near the skirt.
• Legs & feet: Sturdy cylinders that flare into shoe soles; Mary Jane strap crosses the instep. Feet are parallel and flat to sit/stand when leaned against a surface.
• Clothing thickness:
  1. Sweater: Dense single crochet with sparse bobbles (“pearls”) placed evenly on bodice and sleeves.
  2. Skirt: Open mesh (chain spaces) to look airy; bobble-bead hem for “foam”.
  3. Beret: Compact single crochet for structure; a gentle plateau and a slight lip. Straw emerges from center, leaning a touch forward.
• Accessories: Crossbody cup bag hangs from left shoulder to right hip; cup body is mesh with free-moving mini crochet balls (“boba”). Lid is shallow dome; a short straw sits slightly off-center for a playful look.
• Palette: Milk-tea creams and beiges with cocoa-brown dots and bows. Shoes: cream uppers, brown soles. Bag: milk-tea cream with brown pearls.
• Join angles: Arms slightly forward; ears slightly forward/down; legs perpendicular to body with soles flush to surface.

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Materials

• DK-weight 100% cotton yarn (or similar, non-fuzzy) in:
  1. Cream (C1) main body, beret, skirt, shoes
  2. Milky beige (C2) sweater & skirt waistband
  3. Dark cocoa brown (C3) bobbles/dots, shoe soles, bows, mouth
  4. Light pink (C4) straw stripe (optional)
• Hook: 2.5 mm for amigurumi pieces; 3.0 mm for skirt only (for drape)
• Safety eyes: 8 mm black (or crochet tiny black circles if you prefer yarn-only)
• Tapestry needle, stitch markers, scissors
• Stuffing (polyfill), small amount of cotton scrap for stability in feet
• Optional: a few dry lentils or plastic pellets sealed in a small crochet pouch for weight inside the base (yarn-only alternative provided)

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Abbreviations (US Terms)

• MR magic ring
• sc single crochet
• inc increase (2 sc in same st)
• dec invisible decrease (through front loops)
• sl st slip stitch
• ch chain
• hdc half double crochet
• dc double crochet
• BOB bobble stitch (5-dc bobble closed in same st)
• FLO/BLO front/back loop only
• rep repeat
• st(s) stitch(es)
• Rnd/Row round/row
• ( ) repeat bracket
• [ ] stitch count at end of rnd

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Gauge & Size

• Amigurumi works best with a tight fabric: ~7.5–8 sc per 1 in (2.5 cm).
• With specified yarn and hook, finished sheep measures ~10 in (25 cm) tall to top of beret.

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Notes

• Work in a continuous spiral unless told to join. Use a stitch marker.
• Stuff firmly but not so hard you see gaps.
• Color changes are noted inline.
• For a yarn-only build, eyes can be crocheted circles (see Face section for option).
• BOBBLE: (yo, insert, pull up, yo, pull through 2) x5 in same st, then yo, pull through all loops; push the bobble to the right side as you go.

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Color Key

• Body, ears, beret, skirt, shoes upper: C1
• Sweater & waistband: C2
• Bobbles, soles, bows, mouth: C3
• Straw stripe: C4

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Construction Overview

1. Crochet head → body as separate pieces; attach.
2. Make legs/feet and arms; sew to body.
3. Add ears and embroider face.
4. Make shoes, sweater (top-down), skirt (mesh with bobble hem), beret with straw.
5. Make crossbody bubble-tea bag with loose “boba.”
6. Final assembly and styling.

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Head (C1)

Rnd 1: MR, 6 sc [6]
Rnd 2: inc around [12]
Rnd 3: (sc, inc) x6 [18]
Rnd 4: (2 sc, inc) x6 [24]
Rnd 5: (3 sc, inc) x6 [30]
Rnd 6: (4 sc, inc) x6 [36]
Rnd 7: (5 sc, inc) x6 [42]
Rnd 8: (6 sc, inc) x6 [48]
Rnd 9–16: sc around [48] (8 rnds)
— Place eyes between Rnds 12–13, 8 sts apart.
— Optional yarn eyes: With C3, make two 6-sc circles, sew in place; add tiny white highlight stitch.
Rnd 17: (6 sc, dec) x6 [42]
Rnd 18: sc around [42]
Rnd 19: (5 sc, dec) x6 [36]
Rnd 20: (4 sc, dec) x6 [30] — Start stuffing.
Rnd 21: (3 sc, dec) x6 [24]
Rnd 22: (2 sc, dec) x6 [18]
Rnd 23: (sc, dec) x6 [12]
Rnd 24: sc around [12] — Leave this round unclosed; this will be the neck opening for sewing. Fasten off with a long tail for later join.

Face embroidery (C3): Stitch a delicate V mouth centered 2 rounds below eyes; add a tiny vertical stitch at the top of the V.

📌Thank you for reading the article.

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Ears (make 2, C1)

Rnd 1: MR, 6 sc [6]
Rnd 2: (sc, inc) x3 [9]
Rnd 3: (2 sc, inc) x3 [12]
Rnd 4–6: sc around [12]
Rnd 7: (2 sc, dec) x3 [9]
Rnd 8: sc around [9]; flatten, no stuffing.
Fasten off with long tails. Sew low on head, edges angled slightly forward; top of ear level with lower edge of eyes.

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Body (C1)

Rnd 1: MR, 6 sc [6]
Rnd 2: inc around [12]
Rnd 3: (sc, inc) x6 [18]
Rnd 4: (2 sc, inc) x6 [24]
Rnd 5: (3 sc, inc) x6 [30]
Rnd 6: (4 sc, inc) x6 [36]
Rnd 7–10: sc around [36]
Rnd 11: (4 sc, dec) x6 [30]
Rnd 12: (3 sc, dec) x6 [24]
Rnd 13: (2 sc, dec) x6 [18]
Rnd 14: sc around [18] — Waistline for skirt attachment.
Rnd 15: (2 sc, inc) x6 [24]
Rnd 16: (3 sc, inc) x6 [30]
Rnd 17: (4 sc, inc) x6 [36]
Rnd 18: sc around [36]
Rnd 19: (5 sc, inc) x6 [42] — Hip fullness
Rnd 20: sc around [42]
Rnd 21: (5 sc, dec) x6 [36]
Rnd 22: (4 sc, dec) x6 [30] — Start stuffing firmly.
Rnd 23: (3 sc, dec) x6 [24]
Rnd 24: (2 sc, dec) x6 [18]
Rnd 25: (sc, dec) x6 [12]
Rnd 26: dec around [6]; close.
Leave the neck area open to later ladder-stitch to the head’s opening. Pin neck to head so body centers under the face; sew closed with strong ladders.

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Arms (make 2, C1; cuff detail in C2)

Rnd 1: MR, 6 sc [6]
Rnd 2: (sc, inc) x3 [9]
Rnd 3–14: sc around [9]
Rnd 15 (C2): BLO sc around [9] — subtle cuff line
Rnd 16 (C1): sc around [9]
Stuff lightly at the hand end only. Flatten the top and whipstitch closed. Sew to sides of body, slightly forward, between head seam and waist (align with sweater shoulder later).

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Legs & Feet (make 2)

Sole (C3):
Rnd 1: ch 6; work around the chain oval: sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc 3, 3 sc in last ch; continue on other side: sc 3, inc in last st [12]
Rnd 2: inc, sc 3, inc x3, sc 3, inc x2 [18]
Rnd 3: sc around through BLO [18] — makes an edge.

Upper (C1):
Rnd 4–6: sc around [18]
Rnd 7: (4 sc, dec) x3 [15]
Rnd 8: (3 sc, dec) x3 [12]
Insert a small crochet pouch of cotton scraps for weight (optional).
Rnd 9–12: sc around [12] — ankle/leg
Stuff leg firmly.
Rnd 13: (sc, dec) x4 [8]
Rnd 14–16: sc around [8]; fasten off leaving a long tail for sewing.
Make the second leg. Pin legs parallel under the body; sew so soles are flat and even.

Mary Jane strap (C1): Join yarn at outer ankle, ch 6–8 across instep, sl st to opposite side; fasten off and weave in.

Bows (C3, make 2): ch 16, sl st in 2nd ch from hook and each ch across; roll into a bow and tie at center with tail. Sew above strap.

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Sweater with “Pearls” (top-down, worked flat then joined) – C2 with C3 bobbles

Back neck: ch 31.
Row 1: sc in 2nd ch from hook and across [30].
Row 2 (RS): sc 4, inc, sc 2, inc, sc 16, inc, sc 2, inc, sc 4 [34].
Row 3: sc across.
Row 4: Place raglan incs again in same positions (4 inc total) [38].
Row 5: sc across.
Row 6: Divide for sleeves: sc 6, inc, sc 3, inc, sc 6 (front right), ch 4 (underarm), skip 8 (sleeve), sc 12 (front), ch 4, skip 8 (sleeve), sc 6, inc, sc 3, inc, sc 6 [Front/Back now in round count ≈ 36 not incl. sleeves]
Join to work in the round at back edge with sl st. Place marker.

Rnd 1 (body): sc around [36]
Rnd 2: (sc 5, BOB in next) rep around (approx 6 bobbles evenly spaced)
Rnd 3–5: sc around [36]
Rnd 6: (sc 5, BOB) rep around again, staggering placement between previous bobbles.
Rnd 7: sc around; sl st to join, fasten off.

Sleeves (pick up at armholes, in the round):
Join C2 at underarm.
Rnd 1: sc 16 around opening (pick up evenly around the skipped stitches and across the 4 chains) [16]
Rnd 2: sc around
Rnd 3: (sc 3, dec) x3, sc 1 [13]
Rnd 4: sc around
Rnd 5: (sc 3, BOB) around; adjust spacing to place 3–4 bobbles per sleeve
Rnd 6: sc around; sl st and fasten off. Weave ends.

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Mesh Skirt with Bobble Foam Hem

Waistband (C2):
Join at body Rnd 14 (waistline). Work FLO.
Rnd 1: sc, inc around [27] — if your body count differs, aim for a multiple of 3.
Rnd 2: sc around [27]
Switch to 3.0 mm hook and C1 for mesh.

Skirt Mesh (C1):
Rnd 3: (dc, ch 1, sk 1) around; join [27 dc, 27 ch-1 sp]
Rnd 4–7: sl st into next ch-sp, (dc in sp, ch 1) around; join each rnd. (4 rounds mesh)
Rnd 8: (dc, ch 2) around for slightly wider flare.
Rnd 9: (dc, ch 1) around; join and do not fasten off.

Bobble Hem (C1 with C3 accents optional):
Rnd 10: (sc in next dc, in next ch-sp work: BOB, ch 1) around; if desired, work every 4th bobble in C3 for a dotted edge. Sl st, fasten off and weave in.

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Beret with Straw (C1; stripe with C4)

Beret top (C1):
Rnd 1: MR, 6 sc [6]
Rnd 2: inc around [12]
Rnd 3: (sc, inc) x6 [18]
Rnd 4: (2 sc, inc) x6 [24]
Rnd 5: (3 sc, inc) x6 [30]
Rnd 6: (4 sc, inc) x6 [36]
Rnd 7: (5 sc, inc) x6 [42]
Rnd 8: sc around [42]
Rnd 9: (6 sc, inc) x6 [48] — shallow plateau
Rnd 10: sc around [48]
Rnd 11 (BLO): (6 sc, dec) x6 [42]
Rnd 12: sc around [42]
Rnd 13: (5 sc, dec) x6 [36]
Rnd 14: sc around; sl st and fasten off. The BLO round creates that gentle lip.

Straw (C1 with C4 stripe):
With C4, ch 6.
Row 1: sc in back bump of 2nd ch and across [5].
Switch to C1 and roll the strip; sew edges into a tiny tube. Stitch it through the center of beret Rnd 3–4, leaning slightly forward.

Place the beret on the head so it sits just above ears; tack in 3–4 points so it’s removable but stable.

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Crossbody Bubble Tea Bag (all crochet, shakeable pearls)

Pearls (C3, make 6–8):
Rnd 1: MR, 5 sc; sl st to first, fasten off. Leave tails; weave all tails toward center and knot together to make each bead slightly firm. (No stuffing needed.)

Cup Body (C1):
Rnd 1: MR, 6 sc [6]
Rnd 2: inc around [12]
Rnd 3: (sc, inc) x6 [18]
Rnd 4: sc BLO around [18] — base edge
Rnd 5: (dc, ch 1, sk 1) around [18 dc, 18 ch-sp]
Rnd 6–9: sl st into next sp, (dc in sp, ch 1) around — four rounds of mesh.
Before closing the top, drop the loose pearls inside; they will rattle within the mesh but stay contained.
Rnd 10 (solid rim): (sc in dc, sc in ch-sp) around [36]
Fasten off.

Lid (C1):
Rnd 1: MR, 6 sc [6]
Rnd 2: inc around [12]
Rnd 3: (sc, inc) x6 [18]
Rnd 4: sc BLO around [18]
Rnd 5: (2 sc, dec) x4, sc 2 [14] — shallow dome
Seat the lid onto the cup; sew only half the circumference so the other half acts like a hinge for play. Stitch a tiny opening at the lid’s center for the strap/straw illusion if desired.

Strap (C1):
ch 70–80 for a crossbody length to the sheep’s hip; sl st back along chain for durability. Sew ends to two opposite points on the rim so the cup hangs upright.

📌Thank you for reading the article.

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Attaching Head to Body

With the long tail from the head, seat head onto neck opening of body. Ladder stitch around 12–14 stitches, pulling snug. Check that face centers over body. Hide tail inside.

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Finishing the Outfit & Dressing Order

1. Pull the sweater over the head first (neck stretches slightly).
2. Tie off any yarn ends inside.
3. Slide on the skirt; it sits at the FLO waistband you made.
4. Put on shoes and secure straps.
5. Set beret and tack lightly.
6. Hang crossbody bag from left shoulder to right hip.

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Optional Yarn-Only Eye Highlights

With a strand of white cotton, place a tiny single straight stitch at the upper outer edge of each eye for sparkle.

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Blocking & Styling

• Light steam (no touching the iron to cotton) to smooth the skirt mesh and beret lip.
• Shape the bobble hem with your fingers so each bubble points outward.
• Roll the straw slightly; a couple of invisible stitches keep its tilt.

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Care

• Spot clean with a damp cloth.
• Avoid machine wash due to the bag’s loose pearls.
• Reshape while damp and allow to air dry.

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Troubleshooting (Quick Fixes)

• Head wobble: Add a short crochet cylinder “neck plug” (6 sc around for 3–4 rnds) and sew between head and body.
• Skirt too snug/loose: Adjust waistband Rnd 1 to the nearest multiple of 3 and keep mesh repeats.
• Bobbles caving in: Push them to the right side as you work; if needed, pop with the tapestry needle tip.
• Cup pearls escaping: If your mesh is too open, switch to a 2.5 mm hook for Rnds 5–9 or make pearls one stitch larger (6–7 sc in MR).

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You Made It!

Your Bubble Tea Sheep is ready for cozy photos on a wooden table or sofa corner. Tag your makes so more crafters can enjoy this milk-tea cutie!

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Pattern (Step 2, condensed at a glance)

• Head: up to 48 sts, eyes between R12–13 at 8 sts apart, close opening at 12 sts.
• Ears: small ovals, unstuffed, low-set forward tilt.
• Body: pear shape, waist at R14, hips to 42 sts, close at 6.
• Arms: 9-st tubes, light stuffing, cuff line in C2.
• Legs/Feet: oval sole, 18-st upper, ankle to 12 sts, Mary Jane strap; bows in C3.
• Sweater: top-down raglan; body 36 sts, scattered bobbles.
• Skirt: mesh dc-ch, bobble hem.
• Beret: disc to 48 sts with BLO lip; add rolled straw.
• Bag: mesh cup with loose crochet pearls; strap ch 70–80.