Introduction
Say hello to the Tiny Bear in Denim Overalls—a pocket-size knitted friend with a cream snout, embroidered features, and classic blue shortalls fastened with little buttons. This project is written with beginners in mind: you’ll knit mostly in the round for neat, minimal seaming, and you’ll learn simple shaping, a tiny i-cord neckerchief, and a quick, removable outfit. The finished bear stands about 12–14 cm (4¾–5½ in) tall, perfect for gifting, key displays, or adding to a handmade toy collection.
Everything here uses friendly techniques and small amounts of yarn. Choose soft acrylic or cotton blends for easy care, or wool for a traditional look. Safety first: if the toy is for a child under 3, embroider the eyes and avoid buttons.
Materials
Yarn (DK / Light Worsted, smooth non-fuzzy):
- Bear main color: warm brown, ~35–45 m (40–50 yd)
- Snout & inner muzzle: cream or beige, ~8–12 m (9–13 yd)
- Overalls: denim blue, ~25–30 m (27–33 yd)
- Neckerchief: red, ~3–5 m (3–6 yd)
- Features: scrap of black (embroidery thread or fine yarn) for eyes and nose
- Optional tee cuffs: white, ~3 m (3 yd)
Needles
- 3.0–3.25 mm (US 2½–3) double-pointed needles (DPNs) or circulars for Magic Loop
- Optional 2.75–3.0 mm (US 2–2½) for tighter edges on overalls’ rib and neckerchief
Notions & Tools
- Tapestry needle
- 2 small buttons (5–7 mm) for overall bib (omit for under-3s)
- Polyester fiberfill
- Stitch markers (1 contrast for beginning of round)
- Scissors
- Optional: 6 mm safety eyes (for ages 3+, use at your own discretion)
Gauge
About 26 sts × 36 rows = 10 cm / 4 in in stockinette in the round with 3.0–3.25 mm. Gauge isn’t critical, but a firm fabric keeps stuffing from peeking through. If you see gaps, use smaller needles.
Finished Size
~12–14 cm (4¾–5½ in) tall standing, sized for DK yarn.
Abbreviations & Techniques
- CO cast on, BO bind off
- K knit, P purl
- St(s) stitch(es), Rnd(s) round(s), Rep repeat
- PM/SM place/slip marker
- Kfb knit front & back (increase)
- K2tog knit 2 together (right-leaning decrease)
- SSK slip, slip, knit (left-leaning decrease)
- PUK pick up and knit
- I-cord: knit with stitches slid to the right end of the needle each row, yarn pulled across the back
- Magic Loop or DPNs for knitting in the round
Skills you’ll learn/practice: basic toy shaping, even stuffing, simple embroidery, i-cord, and tiny garment construction.
The Bear (worked mostly top-down, in the round)
Head
Using brown, CO 8 sts, join in the round, PM.
- Rnd 1: Kfb around – 16 sts
- Rnd 2: (K1, Kfb) x8 – 24 sts
- Rnd 3: (K2, Kfb) x8 – 32 sts
- Rnd 4: (K3, Kfb) x8 – 40 sts
5–10. Rnds 5–10: Knit – 40 sts (this is the crown and upper head)
Shape lower head / neck:
11. Rnd 11: (K3, K2tog) x8 – 32 sts
12. Rnd 12: K
13. Rnd 13: (K2, K2tog) x8 – 24 sts
14. Rnd 14: K
15. Rnd 15: (K1, K2tog) x8 – 16 sts
16. Rnd 16: Purl around for a subtle neck ridge – 16 sts
If using safety eyes, place them now between Rnds 7–8, about 5–6 sts apart, centered. For embroidered eyes, add them later.
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Body
Increase smoothly from the neck:
- Rnd 17: (K1, Kfb) x8 – 24 sts
- Rnd 18: K
- Rnd 19: (K2, Kfb) x8 – 32 sts
- Rnd 20: K
- Rnd 21: (K3, Kfb) x8 – 40 sts
22–28. Rnds 22–28: K – 40 sts (stuff the head firmly now; begin light stuffing in upper body)
Divide for Legs (work each leg separately)
Place 20 sts on Needle A and 20 sts on Needle B.
Right Leg (work 20 sts)
1–10. Rnds 1–10: K – 20 sts
11. Rnd 11 (ankle shaping): (K3, K2tog) x4 – 16 sts
12–13. Rnds 12–13: K – 16 sts
14. Rnd 14 (foot start): (K1, Kfb) x8 – 24 sts
15–17. Rnds 15–17: K – 24 sts
18. Rnd 18: (K2, K2tog) x6 – 18 sts
19. Rnd 19: K – 18 sts
20. Rnd 20: (K1, K2tog) x6 – 12 sts
21. Rnd 21: K – 12 sts
22. Rnd 22: K2tog around – 6 sts
Cut yarn, draw tail through remaining sts, pull tight. Stuff leg/foot firmly.
Left Leg
Reattach yarn to the remaining 20 sts and repeat Right Leg.
Add more stuffing through the leg openings to create a firm, rounded belly before the second foot is closed.
Arms (make 2)
Using brown:
- CO 8 sts, join in the round – 8 sts
- Rnd 1: (K1, Kfb) x4 – 12 sts
- Rnd 2: (K2, Kfb) x4 – 16 sts
4–11. Rnds 3–10: K – 16 sts - Rnd 11: (K2, K2tog) x4 – 12 sts
- Rnd 12: (K1, K2tog) x4 – 8 sts
- Rnd 13: K2tog x4 – 4 sts
Break yarn, thread tail through remaining 4 sts and pull closed. Lightly stuff from the wider end only so the shoulder stays soft for sewing.
Ears (make 2)
Small cupped ears add that teddy look.
- CO 6 sts, join – 6 sts
- Rnd 1: Kfb around – 12 sts
- Rnd 2: (K1, Kfb) x6 – 18 sts
- Rnd 3: K – 18 sts
- Rnd 4: (K1, K2tog) x6 – 12 sts
- Rnd 5: K – 12 sts
BO all sts loosely. Flatten the ear; it should have a gentle curve. Leave a long tail for sewing.
Snout / Muzzle (cream)
- CO 6 sts, join – 6 sts
- Rnd 1: Kfb around – 12 sts
- Rnd 2: (K1, Kfb) x6 – 18 sts
- Rnds 3–4: K – 18 sts
- Rnd 5: (K2, K2tog) x6 – 12 sts
Cut yarn, leaving a long tail. Place a tiny bit of stuffing inside when sewing to the face.
Tail (nub)
- CO 6 sts, knit 3 rnds
- Next rnd: K2tog around – 3 sts
Cut yarn, draw through, pull tight. Sew to back later.
Assembly & Face
- Ears: Pin ears symmetrically on top of the head, slightly toward the sides. Stitch around the base with the long tails.
- Snout: Center the cream snout on the face (slightly lower than mid-head). Sew all around; add a pinch of stuffing before closing.
- Eyes & Nose:
- Eyes: With black yarn or embroidery thread, work small horizontal seed stitches or French knots above the snout, about 6 sts apart.
- Nose: Satin-stitch a small oval (or upside-down triangle) on the top center of the snout; add a short vertical mouth line.
- Arms: Sew arms to the sides at the neck ridge so they angle slightly forward.
- Tail: Attach the nub near the lower back center.
- Final shaping: Massage stuffing so the bear sits nicely; add a tiny stitch through the back of the head to the neck if you want a gentle chin tilt.
Your teddy is ready for clothes!
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Removable Denim Overalls (shortalls)
These are worked bottom up: two legs in the round, joined for the body; then the front bib is knit flat, with back straps worked as i-cords that button to the bib.
Leg 1 (blue)
- CO 18 sts, join in the round – 18 sts
2–4. Rnds 1–3: (K1, P1) rib – 18 sts
5–12. Rnds 4–11: Knit – 18 sts
Place these sts on a holder.
Leg 2
Work as Leg 1, but do not cut yarn.
Join for Shorts
With Leg 2’s yarn: CO 4 sts (crotch bridge), knit across 18 sts of Leg 1, CO 4 sts, knit across 18 sts of Leg 2 to complete the round.
Total = 18 + 4 + 18 + 4 = 44 sts.
- Rnd 1: Knit – 44 sts
- Rnd 2 (slight shaping): (K9, K2tog) x4 – 40 sts
3–10. Rnds 3–10: Knit – 40 sts (this is the body of the shorts)
Optional: Place side markers after 10 sts and 30 sts to help center the bib.
Front Bib (worked flat)
We’ll work the center 14 sts as the bib; the rest remain unworked at first.
- Row 1 (RS): K13, turn, leaving remaining sts on holder or cable.
- Row 2 (WS): Purl 14.
3–12. Rows 3–12: Work in stockinette (RS knit, WS purl) for 10 more rows, slipping the first st purlwise with yarn in back on RS for a neat edge.
Top edging:
13. Row 13 (RS): (K1, P1) rib across 14 sts.
14. Row 14 (WS): Rib back.
BO loosely in rib.
Back Waistband & Straps
Return to the remaining 26 sts of the back (40 total minus 14 worked for bib). Join yarn if needed.
- Rnd A: With RS facing, knit around the back sts only for 1 rnd to tidy.
- PUK 1 extra st at each back “corner” if gaps appear, then decrease them on the next round.
Straps (make 2):
At each back corner (roughly aligned with where the bib edges sit), PUK 3 sts and work a 3-st i-cord for 7–8 cm (3 in).
Form a tiny buttonhole near the end by working: K1, YO, K2tog, then knit 2 more rows of i-cord and BO.
Sew ends neatly on the inside where they were picked up.
Finishing the waist:
If you want a snugger fit, work one round of K1, P1 rib across the back stitches before or after adding straps. Weave in ends.
Buttons:
Sew two small buttons on the bib, aligned with strap ends. If the toy is for a young child, omit buttons and stitch straps directly to the bib.
Optional: Front Pocket
CO 8 sts in blue. Work 6 rows stockinette, beginning with a knit row. BO, turn the top edge to the WS for a tiny hem if you like, then sew the other three sides to the bib.
Optional White Tee Cuffs (to mimic the photo)
Make 2 little rings and slide them onto the upper arms before sewing arms on (or sew closed afterward).
- With white, CO 12 sts, join – 12 sts
2–4. Rnds 1–3: (K1, P1) rib
BO loosely. Slide onto each arm against the body to peek out under the overall straps.
Red Neckerchief (i-cord)
With red and 2.75–3.0 mm needles, CO 3 sts and work an i-cord for 18–20 cm (7–8 in). BO. Tie loosely around the neck with a simple knot.
Finishing & Care
- Weaving ends: Thread tails into the stuffing cavity when possible and snip only after gentle tugging so they settle inside.
- Final shaping: Roll the feet between your palms to round them. Pinch the snout gently while steam is nearby (do not touch the iron to the yarn) to set the shape.
- Washing: Spot clean the bear. Overalls can be hand-washed; lay flat to dry.
- Safety: Embroider eyes for babies/toddlers and replace buttons with sewn straps.
Troubleshooting
- Stuffing shows through: Go down a needle size or knit more tightly.
- Bear topples forward: Add a touch more stuffing in the lower back, or a tiny bean-bag (fabric pouch with a teaspoon of rice) inside the seat for display only.
- Overalls too loose/tight: Adjust by ±4 sts evenly around the shorts. Keep the bib at ~14 sts so proportions stay cute.
Tips for Beginners
- Place markers generously. One at the start of round and two for the sides keep everything centered.
- Use short tails for embroidery. Fewer passes make tidier eyes. Practice on a swatch!
- Stuff in layers. Small handfuls prevent lumps; use a chopstick to reach the toes.
- Seam with mattress stitch. Even on tiny parts, it gives a clean, nearly invisible join.
- Batch work. Knit both arms one after the other so tension matches.
