Moonlight Coven Bunny is a knitted bunny toy dressed as a midnight witch, wearing a navy dress with moon-and-star motifs, matching witch hat, dark Mary Jane shoes, a mustard crescent-moon shoulder bag with a single strap, and holding a tiny broom.
Please note: I strive for accuracy in every pattern, but occasional errors can happen. Thank you for understanding and for enjoying my designs.
Materials
- Fingering or 4-ply wool or wool-blend yarn (firm gauge for toys)
- A: Light beige (bunny body, head, ears, arms, legs)
- B: Deep navy (dress, hat, shoes)
- C: Mustard yellow (bag and broom bristles)
- D: Warm brown (broom handle)
- E: Soft cream (moon and stars on dress)
- US 2 (2.75 mm) double-pointed needles or long circular for magic loop
- Tapestry needle
- Stitch markers and waste yarn
- Polyester fiberfill
- 2 safety eyes, 6–8 mm, black
- Dark brown or black embroidery thread for nose and mouth
Work at a tight gauge so stuffing does not show.
Abbreviations (US Terms)
- CO – cast on
- BO – bind off
- k – knit
- p – purl
- kfb – knit front and back (increase 1)
- m1 – make one (lifted increase)
- k2tog – knit 2 together
- ssk – slip, slip, knit
- st(s) – stitch(es)
- rnd(s) – round(s)
- RS / WS – right side / wrong side
- pm / sm – place marker / slip marker
Unless noted, work in the round.
Gauge & Finished Size
- About 28 sts x 36 rows = 4 in (10 cm) in stockinette in the round on US 2 needles.
- Finished bunny is approximately 9–10 in (23–25 cm) tall, including hat tip.
Adjust needle size if needed to keep fabric firm.
Construction Overview
- Legs and body are worked as one piece from the feet upward.
- Head is shaped directly above the body.
- Arms and ears are knitted separately and sewn on.
- Dress and hat are removable.
- Shoes are integrated into the legs using navy yarn.
- Crescent bag and broom are separate accessories.
Stuff as you go, keeping shapes smooth and balanced.
Bunny
Legs (make 2)
With B (navy), CO 8 sts. Join in the round and pm.
Feet / Shoes
Rnd 1: kfb around – 16 sts
Rnd 2: (k1, kfb) around – 24 sts
Rnd 3–5: k around
Rnd 6: (k3, k2tog) around – 20 sts
Change to A (beige) for the leg.
Rnd 7: (k3, kfb) around – 25 sts
Rnd 8–18: k around (leg tube about 2¾–3 in / 7–7.5 cm)
Break yarn for first leg and place sts on waste yarn. Stuff feet firmly and legs lightly.
Work the second leg the same but keep yarn attached.
Body
Hold legs together with toes pointing forward.
With A still attached to second leg:
Rnd 1 (join legs):
Knit 25 sts of second leg, CO 4 sts with backward loop, knit 25 sts from first leg, CO 4 sts.
Total 58 sts. Pm at center back.
Rnd 2–7: k around for lower body.
Shape waist and chest
Rnd 8: (k7, k2tog) around – 52 sts
Rnd 9–11: k around
Rnd 12: (k6, k2tog) around – 46 sts
Rnd 13–15: k around
Rnd 16: (k5, k2tog) around – 40 sts
Rnd 17–18: k around
Begin stuffing the body firmly, especially at the hips, so she stands well.
Rnd 19: (k3, k2tog) around – 32 sts
Rnd 20: k around (top of chest / neck base).
Head
Rnd 21: (k3, m1) around – 40 sts
Rnd 22: (k4, m1) around – 48 sts
Rnd 23–32: k around (about 3 cm / 1¼ in of straight head)
Insert safety eyes between rnds 28–29, about 6 sts apart, centered over the front. Stuff head quite firmly as you go.
Head decreases
Rnd 33: (k4, k2tog) around – 40 sts
Rnd 34: k around
Rnd 35: (k3, k2tog) around – 32 sts
Rnd 36: k around
Rnd 37: (k2, k2tog) around – 24 sts
Rnd 38: (k1, k2tog) around – 16 sts
Rnd 39: (k2tog) around – 8 sts
Add any final stuffing needed.
Cut yarn, draw through remaining sts, pull tight, and secure inside.
Embroider a small triangular nose with dark thread centered between the eyes, just below them. Add a short vertical line and two curved stitches for a friendly smile.
Arms (make 2)
With A, CO 8 sts. Join in the round.
Rnd 1: kfb around – 16 sts
Rnd 2–4: k around
Rnd 5: (k2, k2tog) around – 12 sts
Rnd 6: k around
Lightly stuff the hand.
Rnd 7–16: k around for a slim arm (roughly the same length as leg from ankle to mid-thigh).
Rnd 17: (k2tog) around – 6 sts
Cut yarn, pull through remaining sts, secure. Optionally stuff the lower half of the arm only.
Make a second arm.
Floppy Ears (make 2)
Worked flat in A.
CO 8 sts.
Row 1 (WS): purl
Row 2 (RS): knit
Row 3: k1, kfb, k4, kfb, k1 – 10 sts
Row 4: purl
Row 5: k1, kfb, k6, kfb, k1 – 12 sts
Rows 6–16: work in stockinette (RS knit, WS purl) for a long ear panel.
Tip shaping
Row 17 (RS): k1, ssk, k to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1 – 10 sts
Row 18: purl
Row 19: k1, ssk, k4, k2tog, k1 – 8 sts
Row 20: purl
Row 21: k1, ssk, k2, k2tog, k1 – 6 sts
Row 22: purl
Cut yarn, draw through remaining sts, pull tight.
Fold the ear lengthwise slightly and stitch along the lower edge so it curves downward. This helps the ears hang softly under the hat brim.
Make a second ear.
Clothing
Witch Dress
Dress is one piece, worked in the round from hem upward.
With B (navy), CO 84 sts. Join carefully, pm.
Rnd 1–4: k around (hem band)
Skirt
Rnd 5–22: k around in B for a slightly flared skirt.
Optional: on rnd 12 and 18, work k6, m1 around to add subtle flare – then you will have 98 sts at the waist. If so, keep that count for the bodice as well.
For a simple version, leave stitch count at 84.
Waist shaping (for 84 sts version)
Rnd 23: (k5, k2tog) around – 72 sts
Rnd 24–26: k around
Bodice
Rnd 27–34: work k2, p2 rib around to create a fitted, textured bodice that reaches just under the bunny’s chin.
BO loosely in pattern.
Weave in all ends on WS.
Moon and stars
With E (cream) and a tapestry needle, use duplicate stitch to embroider:
- One large crescent moon on the right-hand side of the skirt.
- A scattering of small stars (cross shapes or simple four-point stitches) around the hem and on the left, similar to the photo.
Keep motifs concentrated on the front half of the dress.
Witch Hat
Worked in the round from brim up.
With B, CO 72 sts. Join in the round, pm.
Rnd 1–6: k1, p1 rib for brim base.
Rnd 7: k around.
Rnd 8: (k7, m1) around – 81 sts
Rnd 9: k around
Rnd 10: (k8, m1) around – 90 sts
This creates a soft, slightly flared brim.
Rnd 11–14: k around.
Brim edge
Rnd 15: k2tog, k7 around – 80 sts
Rnd 16: k around.
To make the brim sit flat, you can lightly steam-block after finishing.
Crown
Switch to decreasing to form a tall cone.
Rnd 17: (k8, k2tog) around – 72 sts
Rnd 18: k around
Rnd 19: (k7, k2tog) around – 64 sts
Rnd 20: k around
Rnd 21: (k6, k2tog) around – 56 sts
Rnd 22: (k5, k2tog) around – 48 sts
Rnd 23: (k4, k2tog) around – 40 sts
Rnd 24: (k3, k2tog) around – 32 sts
Rnd 25: (k2, k2tog) around – 24 sts
Rnd 26: (k1, k2tog) around – 16 sts
Rnd 27: (k2tog) around – 8 sts
Cut yarn, draw through remaining sts, pull tight. Lightly stuff the very tip if you want a firm point, or leave empty for a softer bend.
The hat brim should cover the top of the head, with ears sewn just under the brim so they flop downward.
Shoes (strap detail)
The navy feet already read as shoes. To add Mary Jane straps:
With B and tapestry needle, work duplicate stitch across the top of each foot:
- Make a small horizontal line from inner to outer side.
- Add a tiny vertical stitch at the outer end for a button.
Accessories
Crescent Moon Shoulder Bag (with single strap)
Bag body worked flat in C (mustard).
CO 12 sts.
Rows 1–10: knit every row (garter stitch rectangle).
Shape into crescent:
Row 11 (RS): k3, k2tog, k2, ssk, k3 – 10 sts
Row 12: knit
Row 13: k2, k2tog, k2, ssk, k2 – 8 sts
Row 14: knit
Row 15: k1, k2tog, k2, ssk, k1 – 6 sts
Row 16: knit
BO all sts.
Fold the piece along the long edge to create a fat crescent pouch. Sew side edges and bottom, leaving top curve open. Add a few stitches along the inner curve to round off the shape.
Single strap
With C, CO 3 sts and work i-cord for about 4–4½ in (10–11.5 cm). BO.
Sew one end of strap to the top of the crescent, near the outer point. Sew the other end of the strap to the front of the bodice on the bunny’s right shoulder so it looks like the strap rises from the bag, crosses diagonally upward, and disappears there. Do not add a second strap side; this keeps the “missing side” detail from the photo.
Tack the bag body lightly to the front of the skirt so it lies flat.
Broom
Handle
With D (brown), CO 5 sts and work i-cord for about 4 in (10 cm). BO, weave in ends.
Bristles
With C (mustard), cut several strands about 3 in (7.5 cm) long. Fold each in half and latch them through one end of the handle like fringe, using a crochet hook or tapestry needle.
Gather the bristle base tightly around the handle with a strand of D, wrapping several times and knotting securely. Trim ends to the same length to form a neat broom.
Sew the handle into one of the bunny’s hands so the broom stands vertically as in the picture.
Assembly & Finishing
- Attach ears
Pin ears to sides of the head, just below the hat line, so they hang down and curve slightly forward. Sew securely with A along the base of each ear. - Dress the bunny
Slide the witch dress up from the feet, ease it over hips, and position the ribbed bodice just under the chin. Smooth skirt evenly around. - Attach arms
With dress in place, pin arms to body at the top of the bodice, slightly angled outward. Sew firmly using A, taking a few stitches into the dress so it stays in position. - Add hat
Set hat on the head so brim sits straight and covers the top of the ears. Tack hat at the sides and back with a few hidden stitches, leaving the front free for a natural look. - Add bag and broom
Position crescent bag over the skirt on the bunny’s left side (or match your photo). Strap rises diagonally to the right shoulder and ends there. Secure strap and bag with small stitches. Sew broom handle into the right paw, with bristles resting near the feet. - Final shaping
Check that the bunny stands balanced, with feet flat and legs straight. Adjust stuffing by massaging the body and head. Smooth dress, arrange ears symmetrically, and tweak the hat tip for a charming witchy tilt.
Your Moonlight Coven Bunny is now ready for Halloween nights and cozy autumn shelves, with her floppy ears, starry dress, crescent bag, and tiny broom in hand.
