Meet Explorer Tiger Scout – a cheerful orange tiger in a golden skirt, green safari vest, cotton safari hat with leaf, brown sneakers, tiny binoculars, and a little fabric map. This pattern creates a fully dressed amigurumi just like the photo, with removable hat, vest, shoes, and accessories.
Please note: I strive for accuracy in every pattern, but occasional errors can happen. Thank you for understanding and for enjoying my designs.
Abbreviations (US Terms)
- MR – magic ring
- ch – chain
- st(s) – stitch(es)
- sc – single crochet
- hdc – half double crochet
- dc – double crochet
- sl st – slip stitch
- inc – increase (2 sc in the same st)
- dec – invisible decrease (2 sc together)
- BLO – back loop only
- FLO – front loop only
- R – round or row
Notes: Work amigurumi parts in continuous rounds unless stated. Use a stitch marker and stuff firmly as you go.
Materials
- DK or light worsted weight yarn (cotton or acrylic) in:
- Orange (main tiger color)
- Cream (muzzle and soles)
- Dark brown (stripes, nose, binoculars)
- Charcoal or dark gray (binocular tips)
- Golden yellow or mustard (skirt)
- Olive/grass green (vest and leaf, optional strap)
- Beige (hat)
- Hook: 2.5–3.0 mm (or size to get a tight fabric)
- 8 mm safety eyes – 2 pcs
- Small buttons: 2 for vest, 1–2 for dress closure if desired
- Fiberfill stuffing
- Yarn needle and sewing needle
- Stitch markers, pins, scissors
Gauge & Finished Size
- Approximate gauge: 6 sc = 1″ / 2.5 cm in the round with orange yarn.
- Finished height: about 8.5–9″ (21–23 cm) tall including hat, using DK yarn and a 3.0 mm hook.
Exact gauge is not critical, but keep stitches tight so stuffing doesn’t show.
Construction Overview
The tiger is worked from the top of the head down to the body in one piece. Arms, legs, tail, ears, and muzzle are made separately and sewn on. The golden skirt is a separate ring sewn around the body at the waist. The vest, hat, shoes, binoculars, and map are removable accessories so you can pose your explorer.
Tiger Body & Head (one piece – orange)
Use orange yarn. Stuff firmly as you go.
R1: 6 sc in MR (6)
R2: inc around (12)
R3: (sc, inc) x 6 (18)
R4: (2 sc, inc) x 6 (24)
R5: (3 sc, inc) x 6 (30)
R6: (4 sc, inc) x 6 (36)
R7: (5 sc, inc) x 6 (42)
R8: (6 sc, inc) x 6 (48)
R9–R16: sc around (48)
Insert safety eyes between R10 and R11, 7–8 sts apart. Begin stuffing the head firmly.
R17: (6 sc, dec) x 6 (42)
R18: (5 sc, dec) x 6 (36)
R19: (4 sc, dec) x 6 (30)
R20: (3 sc, dec) x 6 (24)
Stuff the head completely; shape it round.
R21: BLO sc around (24) – this forms a neck ridge.
R22: (3 sc, inc) x 6 (30)
R23: (4 sc, inc) x 6 (36)
R24–R29: sc around (36) – straight torso. Keep stuffing.
R30: (4 sc, dec) x 6 (30)
R31: (3 sc, dec) x 6 (24)
R32: (2 sc, dec) x 6 (18)
R33: (sc, dec) x 6 (12)
Finish stuffing, especially the base so she stands nicely.
Fasten off, weave yarn through the last 12 sts and pull tight to close. Weave in end.
Arms (make 2 – orange with brown stripes)
Start with orange.
R1: 6 sc in MR (6)
R2: (sc, inc) x 3 (9)
R3: (2 sc, inc) x 3 (12)
R4–R6: sc around (12) – hand
R7: (2 sc, dec) x 3 (9)
Change to dark brown for a stripe.
R8: sc around (9) – brown
Change back to orange.
R9–R10: sc around (9)
Change to dark brown.
R11: sc around (9)
Change to orange again.
R12–R14: sc around (9)
Stuff the lower half of the arm lightly, leaving the top flatter for easier sewing.
Flatten the opening and sc through both layers across (4–5 sc).
Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing.
Legs (make 2 – orange with brown stripes)
Use orange.
R1: 6 sc in MR (6)
R2: inc around (12)
R3: (sc, inc) x 6 (18)
R4–R5: sc around (18) – round foot
R6: (4 sc, dec) x 3 (15)
R7: sc around (15)
Change to dark brown.
R8: sc around (15)
Change to orange.
R9–R11: sc around (15)
Change to dark brown.
R12: sc around (15)
Change to orange.
R13–R16: sc around (15)
Stuff the legs firmly but keep the top 1 round softer.
Flatten the opening and sc through both layers across (7–8 sc) to close.
Fasten off with a long tail for sewing.
These legs will sit slightly angled forward when sewn to the bottom of the body.
Tail (orange with brown stripes)
Start with orange.
R1: 6 sc in MR (6)
R2–R3: sc around (6)
Change to dark brown.
R4: sc around (6)
Change to orange.
R5–R6: sc around (6)
Change to dark brown.
R7: sc around (6)
Change to orange.
R8–R10: sc around (6)
Lightly stuff the tail (do not over-stuff so it stays flexible).
Flatten opening and sc through both layers (3 sc).
Fasten off with a tail for sewing.
Ears (make 2 – orange)
R1: 4 sc in MR (4)
R2: inc around (8)
R3: (sc, inc) x 4 (12)
R4: sc around (12)
R5: (2 sc, inc) x 4 (16)
R6: sc around (16)
Do not stuff.
Flatten the ear and sc through both layers across (8 sc).
Fasten off, leaving a long tail.
Muzzle (cream)
R1: 6 sc in MR (6)
R2: inc around (12)
R3: (sc, inc) x 6 (18)
R4: sc around (18)
Fasten off with a long tail. Lightly stuff when sewing to the face.
With dark brown yarn, embroider a rounded triangle nose at the top center of the muzzle and a short vertical line down, then a small curved smile on each side.
Face & Stripe Details
- Pin the muzzle centered between the eyes, with the top edge just under the eyes. Sew in place and lightly stuff before closing.
- With black/brown yarn, embroider a small vertical line above the nose if you want a tiny “bridge.”
- For cheek stripes: on each side of the muzzle, embroider three short slanted lines using dark brown yarn.
- For forehead stripes: embroider three short vertical or slightly curved lines across the forehead.
- Optionally add a tiny white stitch in the corner of each eye for sparkle.
- On each arm, the color changes already suggest stripes; if you like, add one more embroidered line between them.
- On the tail, you have built-in stripes from the color changes; you can add one extra short band if you want it darker at the tip.
Golden Skirt (dress skirt)
Use golden yellow/mustard yarn. The skirt is worked separately and then sewn around the body at the waist so it flares out as in the photo.
R1: ch 36, join with a sl st to the first ch to form a ring (36).
Take care not to twist.
R2: ch 1, sc in each st around, sl st to first sc (36).
R3: ch 1, (sc, inc) x 18, sl st to first sc (54).
R4: ch 1, (2 sc, inc) x 18, sl st to first sc (72).
R5–R8: ch 1, sc in each st around, sl st to first sc (72).
R9 (optional hem): ch 1, working in FLO, hdc in each st around, sl st to first hdc (72).
Fasten off and weave in end.
Slip the skirt up over the legs onto the body so it sits roughly at the lower third of the torso. Sew the top edge of the skirt neatly around one round of the body (around R26–R27), keeping the gathers even.
Safari Vest (olive green)
Worked flat in rows and then seamed.
Back
Ch 19.
Row 1: sc in 2nd ch from hook and across (18).
Rows 2–10: ch 1, turn, sc in each st across (18).
Fasten off.
Left Front
Ch 11.
Row 1: sc in 2nd ch from hook and across (10).
Rows 2–10: ch 1, turn, sc in each st across (10).
Fasten off, leaving a tail.
Right Front
Repeat as Left Front.
Vest Assembly & Edging
- Lay the back piece flat. Place the two fronts on top, aligning the shoulders.
- Sew the top 4 sts of each front piece to the corresponding shoulder stitches of the back.
- Sew the side seams, leaving about 3 rows unsewn at the top for armholes.
Edging:
Attach green yarn at the bottom edge of the vest.
- Work sc evenly up the front edge, around the neck, and down the other front edge, then across the bottom hem. Place 1 sc in each row edge and corner, adjusting as needed to keep the edge flat.
- Fasten off and weave the end.
Sew two small buttons vertically on the right front. On the left front, you can either leave it plain (the vest sits open) or crochet tiny chain loops opposite the buttons for functional closures.
Safari Hat (beige)
Use beige yarn.
R1: 6 sc in MR (6)
R2: inc around (12)
R3: (sc, inc) x 6 (18)
R4: (2 sc, inc) x 6 (24)
R5: (3 sc, inc) x 6 (30)
R6: (4 sc, inc) x 6 (36)
R7: (5 sc, inc) x 6 (42)
R8: (6 sc, inc) x 6 (48) – crown finished
R9–R11: sc around (48) – hat side
R12 (start brim): BLO (sc, inc) x 24 (72)
R13–R14: sc around (72)
Fasten off and weave in ends. Slightly steam/block the brim if needed so it curves gently downward.
Leaf Decoration (green)
Ch 7.
Working back along the chain:
- Row 1 (one side): starting in 2nd ch from hook: sc, hdc, 2 dc in next ch, hdc, sc, sl st in last ch.
- Without turning, work along the unused loops of the starting chain: sc, hdc, 2 dc in next, hdc, sc, sl st to the first st.
Fasten off leaving a long tail. Sew the leaf to one side of the hat where the brim meets the crown.
Shoes (make 2 – cream & brown)
Sole – cream
Ch 8.
R1: sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc 5, 3 sc in last ch; rotate to work on opposite side of chain: sc 5, 2 sc in same st as first (15).
R2: inc in first st, sc 5, inc in next 3 sts, sc 5, inc in last 2 sts (22).
R3: BLO sc around (22).
Change to brown for uppers.
Upper – brown
R4–R5: sc around (22).
R6 (shape toe): sc, dec, sc 6, (dec) x 4, sc 6, dec (16).
R7: sc around (16).
Change to cream for the ankle edge.
R8: sc around (16), sl st to first sc.
Fasten off and weave in ends.
With cream yarn or embroidery thread, stitch simple laces across the toe: three horizontal bars with a little X in the middle if you like. Slip the shoes on after legs are attached.
Binoculars & Strap
Barrels (make 2)
First part in dark brown.
R1: 6 sc in MR (6)
R2: (sc, inc) x 3 (9)
R3–R5: sc around (9)
Change to charcoal/dark gray.
R6–R8: sc around (9)
Fasten off one barrel and weave in the end. Fasten off the second barrel leaving a long tail for joining.
Hold the two barrels side by side and sew them together along the middle few stitches so they sit snugly next to each other.
Center Band
With dark brown, ch 12, join with a sl st to form a small ring.
R1: ch 1, sc in each ch around, sl st to first sc (12).
Fasten off leaving a tail.
Slide this band over both barrels to sit across the center. Stitch in place so it doesn’t slip.
Strap
With green or brown yarn, ch 60 (or length needed to cross the tiger’s body diagonally).
Fasten off.
Sew each end of the strap to opposite sides of the binoculars’ center band. Test the length on the tiger so the binoculars rest around her waist/upper skirt in front, then secure.
Little Map (optional accessory)
With light beige yarn:
Row 1: ch 21, sc in 2nd ch from hook and across (20).
Rows 2–10: ch 1, turn, sc in each st across (20).
Fasten off.
Border: attach cream yarn at a corner, work sc evenly all around, placing 3 sc in each corner. Sl st to first sc and fasten off.
With green yarn, embroider simple lines and shapes to suggest rivers and hills. Slightly curl one corner so it looks like a used map.
Assembly
- Attach Legs: Position legs at the very bottom of the body, slightly forward so she stands balanced. Sew securely around the closed top edges.
- Attach Tail: Sew the tail to the center back, just above the legs. Curve it slightly to one side.
- Attach Arms: Sew the arms on either side of the body at about the level where the head joins the body (around R22–R23). Angle them slightly forward to hold the binoculars.
- Attach Ears: Sew ears to the top of the head, slightly forward and to the sides, matching the photo’s placement.
- Dress & Vest: Pull the golden skirt into place and sew the top edge to the body if you haven’t already. Put on the green vest, closing with buttons if you made button loops.
- Shoes: Slide shoes onto the feet; they should fit snugly around the crocheted legs.
- Hat: Place the safari hat on the head so the leaf decoration sits slightly to one side. You can tack it in place with a few stitches or leave it removable.
- Binoculars & Map: Hang the binocular strap diagonally across the body (from one shoulder to the opposite hip). Place or stitch the little map to her hand or leave it as a loose accessory.
Finishing & Customization
- Add more or fewer stripes to customize your tiger’s personality.
- Embroider tiny rosy cheeks with a bit of pale pink yarn.
- Make a second, smaller pair of binoculars by working the barrels 1–2 rounds shorter.
- Change the vest color or buttons to match different explorer outfits.
Your Explorer Tiger Scout is ready for adventures with her map, binoculars, and safari outfit.
