Introduction
Meet the Campus Film Club Bear: a retro–uni teddy in gray-brown herringbone trousers, an oatmeal tee with an “FC” chest patch, a moss-green cardigan, crisp white sneakers, and a matching moss baseball cap. The headline accessory is a tiny Super-8 style camera crossbody with a hinged side panel and a reel you can remove—100% crochet, no plastic. This original pattern is written from scratch to match the pictured look exactly so your finished bear turns out the same.
Please note: I strive for accuracy in every pattern, but occasional errors can happen. Thank you for understanding and for enjoying my designs.
Form & Proportion Analysis
- Height: ~10 in (25 cm) using DK cotton and a 2.5 mm hook.
- Head: Rounded-oval; widest around head Rnds 15–19. Eyes (8 mm) placed low and wide between Rnds 13–14, ~8 stitches apart. Muzzle is a separate shallow oval with a tiny nose and smile.
- Ears: Small round ears, set high; slightly forward tilt for a friendly expression.
- Body: Compact cylinder with gentle taper at neck; natural waist near Body Rnd 12 so the tee and cardigan sit cleanly.
- Arms/Legs: Slim tubes; hands softly rounded; feet set into white sneakers with a neat midsole ridge and simple lace bars.
- Outfit specifics:
- Trousers: Straight-leg, gray-brown; subtle herringbone effect using alternating BLO/FLO and surface lines.
- Tee: Oatmeal; “FC” felt-look patch (duplicate stitch) at left chest.
- Cardigan: Moss green, V-neck, two-button front, rib hem/cuffs.
- Cap: Moss baseball cap with curved brim.
- Camera Bag: Warm charcoal body with tan faceplate, side hinge, carry handle, lens cone, tiny red “record” dot, and a strap crossing left shoulder to right hip.
Fabric density targets ~8 sc per 1 in (2.5 cm) for the bear; garments are slightly looser for drape but stay tidy. Arms are attached a touch forward so the camera strap lies naturally. Legs are perpendicular and parallel for stable standing when leaned against a prop.
Materials
- DK-weight 100% cotton yarn (approx. colors):
- C1 Teddy brown (head, body, limbs, ears)
- C1b Cream (muzzle)
- C2 Oatmeal (tee)
- C3 Moss/olive (cardigan + cap)
- C4 Gray-brown (trousers)
- C5 White (sneakers)
- C6 Light gray (midsole stripe & tee collar line)
- C7 Charcoal + C7b Tan (camera body/faceplate)
- C8 Red (record dot)
- C9 Cocoa/black (nose/mouth embroidery, “FC” letters)
- C10 Silver/steel (camera dial highlights; optional)
- Hooks: 2.5 mm (amigurumi), 3.0 mm (cap brim/cardigan rib optional).
- Safety eyes: 8 mm black (or crochet circles).
- Stuffing, tapestry needle, stitch markers, scissors.
Abbreviations (US Terms)
- MR magic ring
- sc single crochet
- inc increase (2 sc in one st)
- dec invisible decrease
- sl st slip stitch
- ch chain
- hdc half double crochet
- dc double crochet
- tr treble crochet
- BLO / FLO back / front loop only
- st(s) stitch(es)
- rep repeat
- Rnd / Row round / row
- RS right side
Gauge & Notes
- Gauge: ~8 sc × 9 rnds ≈ 1 in (2.5 cm) in spiral rounds with 2.5 mm hook.
- Work in continuous spirals unless a join is specified.
- Stuff gradually and firmly; shape cheeks and shoe toes while warm from blocking steam.
- All accessories are yarn-only to keep the piece 100% crochet.
The Bear
Head (C1)
Rnd 1: MR, 6 sc [6]
Rnd 2: inc around [12]
Rnd 3: (sc, inc)×6 [18]
Rnd 4: (2 sc, inc)×6 [24]
Rnd 5: (3 sc, inc)×6 [30]
Rnd 6: (4 sc, inc)×6 [36]
Rnd 7: (5 sc, inc)×6 [42]
Rnds 8–18: sc around [42]
— Place safety eyes between Rnds 13–14, 8 sts apart.
Rnd 19: (5 sc, dec)×6 [36]
Rnd 20: sc around [36]
Rnd 21: (4 sc, dec)×6 [30]
Rnd 22: (3 sc, dec)×6 [24] — begin stuffing.
Rnd 23: (2 sc, dec)×6 [18]
Rnd 24: (sc, dec)×6 [12]
Rnd 25: sc around [12]; fasten off leaving a long tail.
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Muzzle (C1b)
Rnd 1: MR, 6 sc [6]
Rnd 2: inc around [12]
Rnd 3: (sc, inc)×6 [18]
Rnd 4: sc around [18]; sl st to finish. Lightly stuff and sew centered 1–2 rounds below eyes. Embroider a tiny cocoa triangle nose and short smile with C9.
Ears (make 2, C1)
Rnd 1: MR, 6 sc [6]
Rnd 2: (sc, inc)×3 [9]
Rnd 3: (2 sc, inc)×3 [12]
Rnd 4: sc around [12]; flatten (no stuffing) and sew high on the head with a slight forward tilt.
Body (C1)
Rnd 1: MR, 6 sc [6]
Rnd 2: inc around [12]
Rnd 3: (sc, inc)×6 [18]
Rnd 4: (2 sc, inc)×6 [24]
Rnd 5: (3 sc, inc)×6 [30]
Rnd 6–8: sc around [30]
Rnd 9: (4 sc, inc)×6 [36]
Rnd 10: sc around [36]
Rnd 11: (4 sc, dec)×6 [30]
Rnd 12: (3 sc, dec)×6 [24] — natural waist
Rnd 13: sc around [24]
Rnd 14: (2 sc, dec)×6 [18] — stuff firmly
Rnd 15: (sc, dec)×6 [12]
Rnd 16: dec around [6]; close.
Sew head to body with ladder stitches; keep chin slightly forward.
Arms (make 2, C1)
Rnd 1: MR, 6 sc [6]
Rnd 2: (sc, inc)×3 [9]
Rnds 3–11: sc around [9]
Rnd 12: (2 sc, dec)×2, sc 1 [7]
Lightly stuff the hand end; flatten the top and sew slightly forward beneath the neckline.
Legs & White Sneakers (make 2)
Sole (C5)
Rnd 1: ch 6; sc in 2nd ch, sc 3, 3 sc in last; rotate, sc 3, inc in last [12]
Rnd 2: inc, sc 3, inc×3, sc 3, inc×2 [18]
Rnd 3: BLO sc around [18]
Upper (C5)
Rnd 4–5: sc around [18]
Rnd 6: (4 sc, dec)×3 [15]
Rnd 7: (3 sc, dec)×3 [12] — toe formed.
Midsole stripe (C6)
Surface sl st 1 ring along the Rnd-3 ridge.
Leg Tube (C1)
Rnd 8: switch to C1; sc around [12]
Rnds 9–12: sc around [12]
Rnd 13: (sc, dec)×4 [8]
Rnds 14–16: sc around [8]; fasten off long tails.
Stuff and sew both legs parallel so soles sit level.
Lace bars (C6): embroider two horizontal bars and a small bow on each shoe.
Clothing
Oatmeal Tee with FC Patch (C2 + C6 trim)
Rnd 1: ch 56, join to ring [56]
Rnd 2: sc around [56]
Rnd 3: (sc 6, inc)×8 [64]
Rnd 4: sc around [64]
Rnd 5 (divide sleeves): sc 9, ch 4, sk 12, sc 22, ch 4, sk 12, sc 9 [48 incl. chains]
Rnd 6: sc around, working 2 sc in each ch-4 to close underarm gaps [56]
Rnds 7–8: sc around [56]
Rnd 9 (neck rib look): join C6; sc around loosely and sl st to finish.
Sleeves (each): pick up 22 sc around the armhole with C2.
Rnd 1: sc around [22]
Rnd 2: (sc 5, dec)×3 + sc 1 [19]
Rnd 3: sc around; sl st and fasten.
“FC” Patch (C9 on small C2 rectangle)
Rectangle: ch 8; Row 1: sc 7; Row 2: sc 7; sew to left chest. Duplicate stitch block letters F and C using C9.
Moss Cardigan (C3)
Worked bottom-up, flat for body; sleeves in the round.
Back Panel
Row 1: ch 36; sc in 2nd ch and across [35]
Rows 2–22: sc across [35] (≈ to natural waist + a little ease)
Left Front
Row 1: ch 20; sc across [19]
Rows 2–22: sc across [19]; on Rows 18–22, dec 1 at neck edge each row → [14]
Right Front
Work as Left Front mirrored.
Shoulders & Side Seams
Sew fronts to back at shoulders (6–7 sts each). Seam sides from hem upward, leaving armholes 10 rows high.
Sleeves (worked in armhole, C3)
Pick up 28 sc evenly around.
Rnd 1–2: sc around [28]
Rnd 3: (sc 6, dec)×4 [24]
Rnd 4–5: sc around [24]
Rnd 6 (cuff rib): BLO sc around; sl st and fasten.
Front Bands & Hem Rib
- Hem: join at bottom edge; work BLO sc across the full lower edge for 2 rows.
- Front bands: work up one front edge, around neck, and down the other front edge with BLO sc for 2 rows.
Buttons (2, C3 or C6): MR, (sc, hdc, sc); sew on right band; crochet button loops on left band with small chain arcs.
Herringbone Straight-Leg Trousers (C4)
Create a light herringbone by alternating BLO and FLO rows in the legs and adding a center crease with surface stitch.
Waistband
Rnd 1: ch 48, join [48]
Rnd 2: sc around [48]
Rnd 3: BLO sc around [48] (casing ridge)
Hips/Thighs
Rnd 4: (sc 7, inc)×6 [54]
Rnds 5–6: sc around [54]
Divide for Legs
Mark the join; count 27 sts opposite.
— Right leg: sc 27; join to first of these 27 [27]. Rnds 1–6: Row-feel herringbone: alternate BLO sc round then FLO sc round [27]. Rnd 7 (hem): sc around; sl st and fasten.
— Left leg: attach to remaining 27 sts; repeat.
Front crease: with C9, surface backstitch a straight line down the middle of each leg.
Moss Baseball Cap (C3; brim on 3.0 mm)
Crown
Rnd 1: MR, 6 sc [6]
Rnd 2: inc around [12]
Rnd 3: (sc, inc)×6 [18]
Rnd 4: (2 sc, inc)×6 [24]
Rnd 5: (3 sc, inc)×6 [30]
Rnd 6: (4 sc, inc)×6 [36]
Rnd 7: sc around [36]
Rnd 8: BLO sc around [36]
Rnd 9: sc around [36]; sl st.
Brim (3.0 mm)
Row 1: rejoin at front center; ch 1, sc 12 across.
Row 2: ch 1, turn; sc2tog, sc 8, sc2tog [10]
Row 3: ch 1, turn; sc2tog, sc 6, sc2tog [8]
Row 4: ch 1, turn; sc2tog, sc 4, sc2tog [6]; edge with sl st.
Seat low above the eyes; tack at two points.
Super-8 Camera Crossbody (C7 body, C7b faceplate, C6 strap, C8 record dot, C10 highlights)
Main Box
Base Panel
Row 1: ch 16; sc in 2nd ch and across [15]
Rows 2–9: sc across [15] (≈ 4×6 cm)
Gusset/Wall
Row 1: ch 38; Rows 2–3: sc across [37]
Sew gusset around base panel with whipstitch through FLO for crisp edges → shallow tray.
Top Panel (Lid)
Row 1: ch 16; sc across [15]
Rows 2–8: sc across [15]
Hinge: align lid to one long edge of base; join with a row of sl sts through both edges to form a flexible yarn hinge.
Faceplate (C7b)
Row 1: ch 14; 6 rows sc. Sew centered on lid’s outside.
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Lens & Controls
- Lens Cone: MR (C7), 6 sc; Rnd 2–3: sc around [6]; Rnd 4: (sc, inc)×3 [9]; stuff lightly; sew to faceplate front-right.
- Dial: MR (C10), 5 sc; sew near top left.
- Record Dot: MR (C8), 4 sc; sew near dial.
- Handle: ch 10 in C7; sl st back to create a firm strap; attach to top.
Side Panel & Reel
- Reel (removable): MR (C7b), 6 sc; Rnd 2: (sc, inc)×3 [9]; embroider three spokes in C10; leave flat.
- Side Door: Row 1: ch 10; 5 rows sc in C7b; sew as a flap on one short side of the box (opposite the hinge). Tack a tiny chain loop and a picot nub to close.
Strap
Ch 80–90 in C6; sl st back to make a sturdy cord. Sew to side walls so camera hangs across chest (left shoulder to right hip).
Assembly & Dressing
Order
- Put on the oatmeal tee (neckline stretches).
- Pull on trousers; align front crease.
- Dress the cardigan; add two crochet buttons and loop closures.
- Attach arms if you waited for dressing; angle slightly forward.
- Put on sneakers and embroider lace bars.
- Seat the baseball cap low; ensure ears peek.
- Hang the camera crossbody; set the removable reel inside or stitch it to the side door.
Embroidered Details
- Brows: tiny upward ticks in C9 above the eyes.
- Cardigan buttons: tiny MR (sc, hdc, sc) circles in C6 or C3.
- Herringbone boost: add a diagonal surface backstitch on alternate rounds at the outer thigh to amplify texture.
Blocking, Styling & Care
- Hover-steam cardigan bands, cap brim, and trouser hems to set shape (do not press flat).
- Shape the muzzle gently while warm; let cool to stay rounded.
- Spot clean; air dry.
- For photos, lean the bear against a book stack or a vintage camera; keep the strap angled at ~45° for a natural drape.
Troubleshooting
- Head wobble: Add a neck peg (6 sc around × 4–5 rnds) between head and body before sewing.
- Cardigan pulls at chest: Increase front-band row count by one or add 2 ch to each loop.
- Cap too big/small: Add/remove one crown increase round (±6 sts) or change hook by ±0.25 mm.
- Trousers too tight: Start with ch 50 at waistband and keep leg halves even (25/25 instead of 27/27).
- Camera lid floppy: Work one extra row on the lid lip or add a surface ridge around the lid edge.
Quick Reference (Counts at a Glance)
- Head: max 42 sts; eyes between R13–14, 8 sts apart; close at 12.
- Muzzle: 18-st oval.
- Ears: to 12 sts, flattened.
- Body: max 36 → waist 24 → close at 6.
- Arms: 9-st tubes → taper to 7.
- Legs/Shoes: sole 18; leg tube 12 → 8.
- Tee: ring 56 → divide sleeves with 12-st gaps; sleeves 22 → 19.
- Cardigan: back 35 sts × 22 rows; fronts 19 sts taper to 14; sleeves 28 → 24; rib bands 2 rows BLO.
- Trousers: waist 48 → legs 27/27; hem straight.
- Cap: crown to 36; brim 12 → 6.
- Camera: base 15×9 rows; gusset 37×2 rows; lid 15×8; lens 6→9 sts; strap ch 80–90.
