Introduction
Meet the Cottagecore Painter Mouse—an amigurumi sweetheart in a lavender A-line dress with delicate texture, a soft butter-yellow cardigan, sunny Mary Jane shoes, and a lavender beret topped with a tiny painter’s palette. She carries a small sketchbook-style tote, perfect for plein-air days by the window
Please note: I strive for accuracy in every pattern, but occasional errors can happen. Thank you for understanding and for enjoying my designs.
Materials
- DK-weight 100% cotton yarn (or similar) in:
- C1 Lavender mouse (head, body, ears, tail, dress)
- C2 Warm beige or light taupe (nose embroidery; optional whiskers)
- C3 Butter yellow (cardigan & shoes)
- C4 Cream (tote base)
- C5 Brown (handles & sprig embroidery; mouth line)
- C6 Pastels for palette dabs (rose, mint, peach)
- Hooks: 2.5 mm (amigurumi) and 3.0 mm (dress skirt & cardigan edging for drape).
- Eyes: 8 mm safety eyes OR crochet small black circles.
- Stuffing (polyfill), tapestry needle, stitch markers, scissors.
- Optional: thin white cotton strand for whiskers (yarn, not wire).
Abbreviations (US Terms)
- MR – magic ring
- sc – single crochet
- inc – increase (2 sc in one stitch)
- dec – invisible decrease
- sl st – slip stitch
- ch – chain
- hdc – half double crochet
- dc – double crochet
- tr – treble crochet
- BLO / FLO – back loop only / front loop only
- sk – skip
- rep – repeat
- st(s) – stitch(es)
- Rnd – round
- Row – row
- RS – right side
Texture Cluster used in Skirt (TC3): (dc, ch 1, dc) in same st. On next round, work into ch-1 spaces to create a soft leaf/chevron look.
Gauge & Notes
- Target gauge: ~8 sc = 1 in (2.5 cm) worked tightly.
- Work in continuous spirals unless a join is specified.
- Stuff gradually for smooth silhouettes.
- All accessories are yarn-only to keep the model safe for display.
Construction Overview
- Head, ears, body, arms, legs/feet, tail.
- Dress (bodice in the round; skirt textured), cardigan (flat raglan then joined), shoes, beret with palette, tote.
- Final embroidery and assembly.
Head (C1)
Rnd 1: MR, 6 sc [6]
Rnd 2: inc around [12]
Rnd 3: (sc, inc) ×6 [18]
Rnd 4: (2 sc, inc) ×6 [24]
Rnd 5: (3 sc, inc) ×6 [30]
Rnd 6: (4 sc, inc) ×6 [36]
Rnd 7: (5 sc, inc) ×6 [42]
Rnd 8–18: sc around [42]
Place safety eyes between Rnds 13–14, 9 sts apart.
Rnd 19: (5 sc, dec) ×6 [36]
Rnd 20: sc around [36]
Rnd 21: (4 sc, dec) ×6 [30]
Rnd 22: (3 sc, dec) ×6 [24] — start stuffing.
Rnd 23: (2 sc, dec) ×6 [18]
Rnd 24: (sc, dec) ×6 [12]
Rnd 25: sc around [12]; fasten off leaving a long tail for sewing.
Nose & Mouth (C2/C5): Satin-stitch a small oval nose centered 2 rnds below eyes (spanning ~3 sts). With C5, a short vertical stitch and a tiny curve for a smile.
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Ears (make 2, C1)
Rnd 1: MR, 6 sc [6]
Rnd 2: inc around [12]
Rnd 3: (sc, inc) ×6 [18]
Rnd 4: (2 sc, inc) ×6 [24]
Rnd 5: sc around [24]
Rnd 6: (3 sc, inc) ×6 [30]
Rnd 7: sc around [30]; sl st, fasten off with long tails.
Flatten into discs (no stuffing). Sew high on head with a slight forward tilt.
Body (C1)
Rnd 1: MR, 6 sc [6]
Rnd 2: inc around [12]
Rnd 3: (sc, inc) ×6 [18]
Rnd 4: (2 sc, inc) ×6 [24]
Rnd 5: (3 sc, inc) ×6 [30]
Rnd 6–8: sc around [30]
Rnd 9: (4 sc, inc) ×6 [36]
Rnd 10: sc around [36]
Rnd 11: (4 sc, dec) ×6 [30]
Rnd 12: (3 sc, dec) ×6 [24] — natural waist
Rnd 13: sc around [24]
Rnd 14: (2 sc, dec) ×6 [18] — start stuffing.
Rnd 15: (sc, dec) ×6 [12]
Rnd 16: dec around [6]; close.
Sew head to body with ladder stitches, keeping the chin slightly forward.
Arms (make 2, C1)
Rnd 1: MR, 6 sc [6]
Rnd 2: (sc, inc) ×3 [9]
Rnd 3–11: sc around [9]
Rnd 12: (2 sc, dec) ×2, sc 1 [7]
Stuff lightly at hand only. Flatten the top and whipstitch to the body slightly forward under the shoulder line.
Legs & Feet (make 2, C1 for legs; C3 for shoes)
Foot Base
Rnd 1 (C3): ch 6; sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc 3, 3 sc in last; rotate, sc 3, inc in last [12]
Rnd 2: inc, sc 3, inc ×3, sc 3, inc ×2 [18]
Rnd 3: BLO sc around [18]
Upper & Toe
Rnd 4–5: sc around [18]
Rnd 6: (4 sc, dec) ×3 [15]
Rnd 7: (3 sc, dec) ×3 [12] — rounded toe complete.
Ankle & Leg
Rnd 8: switch to C1; sc around [12]
Rnd 9–12: sc around [12]
Rnd 13: (sc, dec) ×4 [8]
Rnd 14–16: sc around [8]; fasten off.
Stuff and sew legs in parallel, soles flush to the shelf edge.
Tail (C1)
Ch 18; sl st back along chain for a neat cord. Sew at the lower back center (optional if hidden by dress).
Mary Jane Shoe Strap & Edge (C3)
- Strap: On each shoe, join yarn at outer ankle, ch 7–8 (fit your foot), sl st to inner ankle; fasten and weave in.
- Sole ridge: Surface sl st around Rnd 3 (BLO edge) for a crisp sole line.
Outfit
Lavender Dress (C1)
Bodice (worked top-down in the round):
Rnd 1: ch 54, join to ring without twist [54]
Rnd 2: sc around [54]
Rnd 3: (sc 8, inc) ×6 [60]
Rnd 4: sc around [60]
Rnd 5 (divide for armholes): sc 8, ch 4, sk 10, sc 24, ch 4, sk 10, sc 8 [44 including ch-spaces]
Rnd 6–7: sc around, placing 2 sc in each underarm chain (adds 8 sts) → [52] then [52]
Rnd 8: sc around and sl st to join; fasten off. The bodice ends roughly at the natural waist.
Skirt (switch to 3.0 mm for flow):
Rnd 1 (setup): Join C1 at any st; (sc, ch 1, sc) in next st, sk 1 repeat around. Ensure an even number of ch-1 spaces (adjust by skipping the final stitch if needed).
Rnd 2: (TC3 into each ch-1 sp) around.
Rnd 3: (sc in dc, ch 1, sc in next dc, ch 1) working across the TC3 to prepare spacing.
Rnd 4: (TC3 in each ch-1 sp) around.
Rnd 5: Increase round for gentle flare—(TC3 in next sp, ch 1, TC3 in same sp) every 8th space.
Rnd 6–8: continue alternating Rnd 3 and Rnd 4, maintaining the new count.
Rnd 9 (hem): sc in each st and each ch-space for a tidy edge; sl st and fasten off. Skirt should fall just above the shoe straps.
Butter-Yellow Cardigan (C3)
Open-front, cropped-hip, simple texture; worked flat as a top-down raglan and joined underarm. Use 3.0 mm only for final edging if your tension is very tight.
Yoke
Row 1: ch 41.
Row 2: sc in 2nd ch and across [40].
Row 3 (place raglan incs): sc 6, inc, sc 2, inc, sc 20, inc, sc 2, inc, sc 6 → [44].
Row 4: sc across [44].
Row 5: repeat raglan inc row in same positions → [48].
Row 6: sc across [48].
Divide for sleeves
Row 7: sc 7, ch 4, sk 10 (right sleeve), sc 14 (back), ch 4, sk 10 (left sleeve), sc 7 [32].
Row 8–12: sc across [32] to hip length.
Front bands & hem
Row 13: ch 1, turn, sc evenly around entire cardigan edge (front-hem-front-neckline) picking up ~90–100 sts; sl st to first sc to close the edging round (only the edging is joined).
Row 14: sc around again for a thicker band; sl st, fasten off.
Sleeves (each, in the round):
Pick up 18 sc evenly around armhole.
Rnd 1–2: sc around [18]
Rnd 3: (sc 4, dec) ×3 [15]
Rnd 4: sc around [15]; sl st and fasten off.
Roll the cuff once to mimic the photo.
Lavender Beret with Palette (C1 + C6 + C3)
Beret
Rnd 1: MR, 6 sc [6]
Rnd 2: inc around [12]
Rnd 3: (sc, inc) ×6 [18]
Rnd 4: (2 sc, inc) ×6 [24]
Rnd 5: (3 sc, inc) ×6 [30]
Rnd 6: (4 sc, inc) ×6 [36]
Rnd 7: (5 sc, inc) ×6 [42]
Rnd 8: sc around [42]
Rnd 9 (lip): BLO sc around [42]
Rnd 10: (5 sc, dec) ×6 [36]
Rnd 11: sc around [36]; sl st, fasten off.
Top nub: MR, 5 sc; sl st to first; leave a tail and stitch to center top, slightly forward.
Painter’s Palette Appliqué (C3 base + C6 dabs)
Base (C3): ch 9; Row 1: sc in 2nd ch and across [8]. Row 2: inc, sc 3, hdc, dc, hdc, inc [10]. Row 3: sc 3, hdc 2, dc 1, hdc 2, sc 2 (shape into kidney). Sl st around for a neat outline; fasten off.
Paint dabs (C6 colors): MR, 4 sc, close; make 3 small circles (rose, mint, peach). Sew dabs onto palette and then sew palette to the right-front of the beret.
Set the beret low over the forehead; tack in 2–3 points to keep position. Tuck the ears slightly under the brim edge.
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Sketchbook Tote (C4 base, C5 details)
Body (make 2 flat panels)
Row 1: ch 17; sc in 2nd ch and across [16].
Rows 2–10: sc across [16]. Fasten off both.
Join: Hold panels together; sc around all four sides to seam (3 sc in each corner).
Handles (C5, make 2): ch 22; sl st back for a firm strap; sew ends to the inside top edge ~6 sts apart.
Sprig Motif: With C5, surface backstitch a slim stem and two leaves on the front panel (centered, bottom-left quadrant).
Whiskers (optional, C2)
Split the cotton yarn to two plies and embroider two short whiskers per side at nose level—keep subtle and soft.
Assembly & Dressing
Order of Dressing
- Slide on the dress: bodice first, then tug skirt gently to seat at waist.
- Add cardigan, rolling cuffs once.
- Put on the shoes and stitch Mary Jane straps if you prefer fixed straps.
- Position beret; stitch palette side slightly lower for a jaunty angle.
- Hang the tote from one hand; add a few invisible stitches to the palm if you want it to stay posed.
Blocking, Styling & Care
- Hover steam to relax the dress skirt so the texture sits like soft leaves.
- Shape the beret lip and top nub while warm, then let cool.
- Spot clean with mild soap; air dry.
- For window-sill photos, lean the mouse lightly against the frame. The feet are flat enough to balance with minimal support.
Troubleshooting
- Head wobble: Crochet a short neck peg (6 sc around × 4–5 rnds) and stitch between head and body before final closure.
- Dress skirt too stiff: Switch skirt to a 3.0–3.25 mm hook or add one more “increase round” (repeat Rnd 5) for extra flare.
- Cardigan pulling across chest: Add +2 chains to each underarm on Row 7 and pick up +2 more stitches on sleeves.
- Beret too large/small: Add or remove one increase round before Rnd 8, or change hook size by ±0.25 mm.
Quick Reference (Counts at a Glance)
- Head: max 42 sts; eyes between R13–14, 9 sts apart; close at 12.
- Ears: discs to 30 sts, unstuffed.
- Body: max 36 → waist 24 → close at 6.
- Arms: 9-st tubes, taper to 7.
- Legs/Feet: shoe base 18 sts; leg tube 12 → 8.
- Dress: bodice ring 54 → divide with 10-st armholes; skirt uses TC3 texture; one flare round at Rnd 5.
- Cardigan: yoke base 40 sts; divide leaving 10-st sleeves; body 32 sts; sleeves start 18 → taper to 15.
- Beret: crown to 42; lip BLO; palette appliqué with 3 mini color dots.
- Tote: panels 16×10 rows; handles ch-22.
