Free Pattern: Two-Leaf Tulip – Crochet & Knitting

Introduction

This project shows you how to knit the exact two-leaf tulip pictured: a plump, yellow tulip head with three soft points at the top and a single green stem sprouting two full leaves that sit diagonally to the left and right. Everything is knitted (no wire or crochet), slightly stuffed for a cushy look, and finished with neat seams so the flower holds its shape.

The finished tulip measures about 12–14 cm (5–5½ in) from the bottom tip of the stem to the top of the middle petal when knitted in worsted/aran yarn. The pattern is written for beginners with row-by-row/round-by-round instructions, clear stitch counts, and friendly tips. Use it as a desk decoration, a gift topper, or add a brooch back for a spring pin.

Materials

Yarn (non-fuzzy wool or wool-blend recommended for shape):

Flower: 15–20 g yellow worsted/aran (Category 4).
Stem & Leaves: 15–20 g leaf green worsted/aran.

The sample in the photo was worked in a slightly haloed wool blend; a similar smooth worsted will produce the same size and structure.

Needles & Notions

4.0 mm (US 6) double-pointed needles (DPNs) or a long circular for magic loop (for knitting small tubes and i-cord).
3.75–4.0 mm (US 5–6) straight or circular needles for knitting flat pieces.
Stitch markers (3–4), scrap yarn or stitch holders.
Tapestry needle, scissors.
Small amount of polyester fiberfill for gentle stuffing (a few pinches only).
Optional: brooch back or a small magnet if you want to turn it into a pin or fridge magnet.

Gauge

Not critical, but a fairly firm fabric is important so the pieces keep their shape. Aim for about 20–21 sts × 28–30 rows = 10 cm/4 in in stockinette on 4.0 mm needles with worsted yarn. If your fabric looks loose, go down a needle size.

Abbreviations & Techniques (US terms)

k knit
p purl
st(s) stitch(es)
rnd(s) round(s)
RS/WS right/wrong side
CO cast on
BO bind off
pm/sm place marker/slip marker
kfb knit into the front and back of the same stitch (inc 1)
m1L / m1R make one left/right (optional equivalent to kfb where noted)
k2tog knit 2 together (right-leaning decrease)
ssk slip, slip, knit (left-leaning decrease)
CDD centered double decrease: slip 1 knitwise, k2tog, pass slipped st over (dec 2; forms a crisp center line)
p2tog purl 2 together
i-cord a small knitted cord made on 2 DPNs; work a row, slide to the other end without turning, pull working yarn behind, knit again.

Skills used: casting on, knitting in the round with DPNs or magic loop, i-cord, simple increases/decreases, picking up stitches, light seaming, and neat finishing.

Overview of Construction

Knit the stem as an i-cord from the top down so the upper end can tuck into the flower.
Pick up stitches on opposite sides of the stem to knit each leaf flat from base to tip with a centered ridge—this matches the raised line you see on the photo. Leaves are lightly stuffed and seamed for gentle fullness.
Knit the tulip head in the round as a tube, then divide into three petals and shape each to a soft point.
Assemble: stuff lightly, draw in the flower’s base around the top of the stem, sew leaves closed, and tidy the shape.

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Pattern

1) Stem (worked as i-cord, green)

Using two 4.0 mm DPNs and green, CO 4 sts.

Work i-cord for 40 rows (about 7–8 cm / 3 in). This creates the main stem length.
Fasten off by cutting the yarn, leaving a 20 cm tail for sewing later. Do not stuff the stem; the i-cord is firm on its own.

Where to place the leaves: on the stem, measure about 3 cm (1¼ in) down from the top (the end where the yarn tail is still attached). Mark this spot with a removable marker or a scrap of contrasting thread. You’ll pick up stitches here for each leaf after knitting them.

Set the stem aside for a moment.

2) Leaves (worked flat from the stem outward, green — make two)

Each leaf is knitted flat. You’ll pick up 3 sts along the side of the i-cord at the marked height, then increase to full width, and finally decrease to a pointed tip with a neat centered ridge formed by CDD.

The instructions below are for one leaf. Repeat on the opposite side of the stem for the second leaf, starting at the same height so the leaves sit symmetrically.

Leaf A – Pick Up and Begin
Hold the stem with the top facing up. With a single 4.0 mm needle and green, pick up 3 sts along one side of the i-cord at the marked height (pick up 3 bumps stacked vertically over ~1 cm). Turn so the stem sits to the right; you will now knit away from the stem.

We will number rows from here:

Row 1 (RS): kfb, k1, kfb – 5 sts.
Row 2 (WS): purl – 5 sts.
Row 3 (RS): kfb, k3, kfb – 7 sts.
Row 4 (WS): purl.
Row 5 (RS): kfb, k5, kfb – 9 sts.
Row 6 (WS): purl.
Row 7 (RS): kfb, k7, kfb – 11 sts.
Row 8 (WS): purl.
Row 9 (RS): kfb, k9, kfb – 13 sts.
Row 10 (WS): purl.

At this point the leaf has reached its full width and looks like the broad base in the photo.

Shape the Leaf with a Center Ridge
Work the following decrease sequence; stitch counts are after each RS row.

Row 11 (RS): k5, CDD, k5 – 11 sts.
Row 12 (WS): purl.
Row 13 (RS): k4, CDD, k4 – 9 sts.
Row 14 (WS): purl.
Row 15 (RS): k3, CDD, k3 – 7 sts.
Row 16 (WS): purl.
Row 17 (RS): k2, CDD, k2 – 5 sts.
Row 18 (WS): purl.
Row 19 (RS): ssk, k1, k2tog – 3 sts.
Row 20 (WS): p3tog – 1 st.

Cut yarn leaving a long tail (20–25 cm) to seam the leaf later. Pull the tail through the last stitch to secure.

Leaf B – Mirror
Rotate the stem and, at the same height on the opposite side, pick up 3 sts and repeat Rows 1–20 for the second leaf. Leave a similar long tail for seaming.

Tip for a soft, puffy look: when you seam each leaf you’ll tuck in one small pinch of stuffing. That’s how the photo’s leaves keep their rounded profile without wire.

3) Tulip Head (yellow, in the round)

The tulip is a simple tube divided into three equal petals and shaped to points.

Using yellow and 4.0 mm DPNs (or magic loop), CO 36 sts. Join to work in the round, pm for the beginning.

Rnd 1–16: knit all stitches – 36 sts throughout.

After 16 rounds you have a gently rounded cylinder. The length from the base to the start of shaping is roughly 6 cm / 2⅜ in, which matches the photo’s proportion.

Divide for Three Petals
Place extra markers to split the 36 stitches into three sections of 12 sts each: [12 | 12 | 12]. You will work each section flat to a point, one at a time, leaving the other stitches on the needle or moved to holders.

Petal 1 (work flat on 12 sts)

Row 1 (RS): ssk, k8, k2tog – 10 sts.
Row 2 (WS): purl.
Row 3 (RS): ssk, k6, k2tog – 8 sts.
Row 4 (WS): purl.
Row 5 (RS): ssk, k4, k2tog – 6 sts.
Row 6 (WS): purl.
Row 7 (RS): ssk, k2, k2tog – 4 sts.
Row 8 (WS): purl.
Row 9 (RS): CDD – 2 sts.
Row 10 (WS): p2tog – 1 st.
Fasten off Petal 1, leaving a short tail to weave in later.

Slip the next set of 12 held sts to your working needle.

Petal 2

Repeat Rows 1–10 of Petal 1 on these 12 sts. Fasten off.

Petal 3

Repeat again on the final 12 sts. Fasten off.

Now the tulip head has three soft points with little “valleys” between them, just like the photo.

Tidy the top by weaving each petal tail down the back of the petal for 2–3 cm so it doesn’t show.

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Assembly & Finishing

A) Shape and Close the Flower Base

Thread a long strand of yellow (or use the cast-on tail if long enough) onto a tapestry needle.
Work a running/gathering stitch through the cast-on edge (inside one leg of each stitch) all the way around the base of the flower.
Insert a very small amount of stuffing into the flower—just enough to make it plump but not ballooned.
Insert the top of the green stem about 1–1.5 cm into the base of the flower. Pull the gathering thread firmly to cinch the base closed around the stem, then secure with several knots and weave the end neatly inside the flower.

This creates that firm flower–stem join you see in the picture with no green calyx showing.

B) Seam and Shape the Leaves

Each leaf was left with a long tail.

Fold the leaf right sides together. Using the yarn tail, mattress stitch along one side from the tip toward the base for about ⅔ of the length.
Insert a tiny tuft of stuffing to give the leaf a soft profile. Continue seaming to the base.
Anchor the last stitches to the stem where the leaf meets it, taking a couple of secure stitches around the i-cord.
Repeat for the second leaf, checking that both leaves sit at the same height and angle outward slightly as in the photo.

The centered CDD line forms a gentle ridge down each leaf. Lightly pinch along the ridge after seaming to accentuate it.

C) Finish the Stem

If you want a pointed bottom, thread the stem’s cast-on tail through the last two rows and pull to taper slightly. Weave in securely.

Blocking & Care

Light steam blocking (hovering the iron, never touching acrylic directly) or a gentle mist with water helps the petals relax and the leaves lie smooth.
Shape the three petal points with your fingers while the piece is damp; let air-dry flat.
Hand-wash only if necessary; squeeze in a towel and let dry.

Optional Add-Ons

Brooch/Pin: Stitch a brooch back to the upper stem or the back of the leaves.
Magnet: Glue a small rare-earth magnet to felt and stitch the felt discreetly behind the leaves.
Bouquet: Knit several tulips and stitch stems together; wrap with ribbon for a spring decoration.

All options are family-friendly and suitable for decorative use.

Troubleshooting & Beginner Tips

If the petal points look too sharp, stop one step earlier (after Row 7 of each petal) and BO 4 sts instead of working the CDD. That gives a slightly rounder point.
If you see stuffing peeking through, your gauge is too loose—go down a needle size.
When picking up 3 sts for a leaf, pick them in a straight vertical line; this prevents the base from twisting and gives the tidy, stacked look seen in the photo.
The i-cord can curl slightly. A quick steam and gentle tug straightens it.
Keep stuffing minimal. The photographed tulip is softly filled; over-stuffing will distort the leaf and petal edges.

Quick Reference (Stitch Counts)

Stem: i-cord 4 sts × 40 rows.
Leaf base: pick up 3 sts → increase to 13 sts; then decrease to tip (counts: 11, 9, 7, 5, 3, 1).
Tulip head: CO 36 sts, knit 16 rnds, divide into 3 × 12 sts; each petal decreases to a single stitch.

You Made It!

Your Two-Leaf Tulip should now match the photo: a yellow tulip bloom with three tidy points, a slim green stem, and two curved, textured leaves that sit just below the flower. The construction choices—i-cord stem, leaves with a centered ridge, and three separately shaped petals—were selected specifically to replicate the look of the image while keeping the knitting simple and beginner-friendly.

Enjoy your knitted flower!