A Cute, Practical Project for Every Mug

These flat duck coasters are as functional as they are adorable. Each coaster is built from two simple circles—a larger body and a smaller head—joined with a neat single-crochet edging so the piece looks like a single duck silhouette. A slim orange beak and a tiny embroidered eye bring it to life while keeping the surface flat for cups and glasses. This pattern uses basic stitches, clear round-by-round counts, and beginner-friendly tips so you can succeed on your very first try.

Because coasters touch heat and condensation, we’ll use cotton yarn for good absorbency and durability. Gauge isn’t critical; simply aim for a smooth, flat circle. You can make one coaster in 20–30 minutes, then batch a full set for gifts, markets, or seasonal décor.

Materials (Beginner-Friendly)

• Yarn (Worsted/Medium #4 cotton recommended)
  1. Yellow (main): body and head — about 20–25 g per single-layer coaster
  2. Orange: beak — a small scrap
  3. Black: embroidered eye — a small scrap
• Hook: US H/5.0 mm (or G/4.0 mm if you crochet loosely)
• Notions/Tools: tapestry (yarn) needle, small scissors, stitch marker (optional)
• Optional Finishing: fabric or craft glue for non-slip dots, or a few dots of clear silicone/fabric paint on the back; light spray starch if you like crisp edges

Safety note for household use: avoid beads or safety eyes on coasters; keep the top surface flat so cups sit securely.

Abbreviations (US Terms)

• MR – magic ring
• ch – chain
• sl st – slip stitch
• sc – single crochet
• hdc – half double crochet
• dc – double crochet
• inc – increase (2 sts in the same stitch)
• sc2tog – single-crochet two together (decrease)
• st(s) – stitch(es)
• rep – repeat
• FO – fasten off

Finished Size & Gauge

• Finished size (single layer): body circle ≈ 11–12 cm (4¼–4¾ in) diameter; full width (beak to tail) ≈ 13–14 cm (5–5½ in).
• Gauge: not critical. Circles should lie flat. If they ruffle, go down a hook size; if they cup, go up a size or add a round.

How the Coaster Is Built

1. Body: a 5-round flat dc circle (60 sts), perfect coaster size.
2. Head: a 2-round smaller dc circle (24 sts) for cute proportion.
3. Edging: one continuous round of sc goes around the head and body, joining them where they overlap so everything becomes one flat coaster.
4. Beak: a slim orange wedge worked directly on the head’s edge (keeps the top surface flat).
5. Eye: a tiny embroidered dot—safe and flat.

Notes for a Flat, Smooth Coaster

• A classic flat dc circle grows by +12 sts per round.
• Keep your tension even. If your circle waves (ruffles), your increases are too generous or your tension is loose—drop hook size. If it cups, go up a hook or add one more increase round on the body.
• For truly flat edges, you can add a final crab stitch (reverse sc) border after joining; this locks the edge and looks clean.

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Step-by-Step Pattern (Round-by-Round)

Part A — Body (Yellow)

Round 1: MR, 12 dc into ring. Pull tight, sl st to first dc. (12)
Round 2: ch 2 (does not count as a st), 2 dc in each st around, sl st to first dc. (24)
Round 3: ch 2, (dc in next st, 2 dc in next st) rep around, sl st. (36)
Round 4: ch 2, (dc in next 2 sts, 2 dc in next st) rep around, sl st. (48)
Round 5: ch 2, (dc in next 3 sts, 2 dc in next st) rep around, sl st. (60)
FO. Weave the center tail snugly so it never loosens during washing.

Want an extra-large duck? Work Round 6: ch 2, (dc in next 4 sts, 2 dc in next st) around to 72 sts, then follow the rest as written.

Part B — Head (Yellow)

Round 1: MR, 12 dc, sl st to first dc. (12)
Round 2: ch 2, 2 dc in each st around, sl st. (24)
FO, leaving a 12–14 in (30–35 cm) tail if you prefer to sew the head in place; if you’ll only join with the edging, a short tail is fine.

This 24-st head against a 60-st body creates the cute duckling proportion seen in the photo.

Part C — Position the Head

Lay the body flat on a table. Place the head so it overlaps the upper-left edge of the body by about ¼ of the head’s diameter. Pin or clip in place. The beak will go on the left edge of the head.

Part D — Join & Outline (Yellow)

We’ll make one tidy round of sc that travels around the head and body, joining them where they overlap.

1. Start on top of the head. Join yellow with a sl st on the top center of the head. ch 1.
2. Around the head: sc in each st around the head. (24 sc)
3. Join head to body: As you reach the lower part where head overlaps body, sc through both layers (head st + the body st directly under it) for 8–10 sts, depending on your overlap.
4. Around the body: After the overlap section, continue with sc in each body st all the way around. (60 sc)
   • Optional tiny tail: along the back-right curve of the body, work 1–2 increases (2 sc in same st) spaced a stitch apart. This gives a subtle tail bump like in the photo.
5. Finish the join: When you return to the overlap on the upper-left, sc through both layers for another 8–10 sts to match the first join section. Sl st to the first sc. FO.

Don’t worry about the exact outline stitch total; aim for an even, smooth edge.

Optional firm border: Work 1 round of crab stitch (reverse sc) around the entire edge, starting anywhere. This locks the rim and adds a clean corded finish that lies flat under cups.

Part E — Flat Beak (Orange)

A low-profile beak is best for coasters. Work directly into the head’s edge.

Row 1: Join orange with sl st to a stitch on the left side of the head (slightly below the horizontal center). ch 2, then hdc, dc in the same st; turn.
Row 2: ch 1, sc2tog across the two tall stitches you just made (hdc+dc), then sl st into the next head stitch to anchor. FO and weave tails to the back.

Prefer a pointier beak? Make a tiny triangle separately: ch 3, sc in 2nd ch from hook, hdc in next ch, FO with a tail, and sew the long side to the left edge of the head so the point faces left. Keep your stitches flat.

Part F — Eye (Black, Embroidered)

Using black yarn and your tapestry needle, add a small French knot or a few tiny back-stitches to form a dot one stitch behind the beak and slightly above center. Weave ends securely on the wrong side. (Avoid beads or safety eyes on coasters.)

Optional: Double-Thick Coaster

Want extra thickness and heat protection?

1. Make two bodies (Part A) and two heads (Part B).
2. Stack them with wrong sides together so you have a front duck and a mirror-image back duck perfectly aligned.
3. Work Part D but sc through all matching layers everywhere, including the overlap sections.
4. Add the beak and eye only on the front layer.
   The result is a sturdy, reversible coaster about twice as thick.

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Finishing & Blocking

• Weave in ends on the wrong side, splitting yarn plies as you weave for extra security.
• Steam or spray block lightly and pin to shape. Let dry completely for a crisp, flat finish.
• Non-slip option: add a few small dots of clear silicone or fabric paint to the back; let cure fully before use.

Care & Washing

• Cotton coasters are machine-washable on gentle or hand-washable.
• Air dry flat to preserve shape.
• Avoid harsh bleach; if you used silicone dots, hand wash for longevity.

Troubleshooting (Beginner Q&A)

My circle ruffles (waves). What now?
Try a smaller hook or slightly tighter tension. You can also replace Round 5 with (dc in next 4 sts, inc) to reach 72 sts—sometimes a bigger circle relaxes the wave once blocked.

It cups like a shallow bowl.
Go up a hook size or add a round to the body. Give it a quick steam block and gently press flat.

The head isn’t sitting where I want.
Pin before you start the join. If the overlap is too small, your duck looks disconnected; if too deep, the head looks tiny. Aim for about ¼ of the head’s diameter overlapping the body.

My edging looks bumpy.
Edging bumps often mean uneven tension. Slow down, insert your hook perpendicular to the edge, and keep your stitch height consistent. A final crab-stitch round can mask small irregularities and add structure.