Introduction

If you’ve been wanting a first knitted toy that looks impressively polished but uses only beginner techniques, this donkey is perfect. The body is worked from the feet up as a continuous piece, so there’s very little seaming. The arms are knit separately and sewn on, while the ears, muzzle, tail, and mane are quick add-ons that bring tons of personality. Finally, you’ll dress your donkey in a removable mini sweater and comfy shorts—great for gifting and play.

Finished size: ~10.5–11 in (27–28 cm) tall using DK yarn.
Construction overview: Feet → legs → join for body → neck → head; separate pieces for arms, ears, muzzle, tail, and mane. Clothes are removable and knit in the round with tiny sleeves/legs picked up later.

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Materials

Yarn (DK / light worsted, ~22 sts = 4 in / 10 cm in stockinette on US 6, but we’ll use smaller needles for a dense toy fabric):

• Main Grey (MG): 120–140 m (head, body, arms, ears outside, feet, tail)
• Cream/White (CR): 30–40 m (muzzle, ear linings)
• Navy/Dark Blue (NV): 15–20 m (mane and tail tassel)
• Light Grey (LG): 40–50 m (sweater main)
• White (WH): 25–30 m (sweater motif)
• Bright Green (GR): 50–60 m (shorts)

Acrylic, cotton, or superwash wool all work. Choose something soft and durable for toys.

Needles

• US 3 (3.25 mm) circular (32–40 cm) or DPNs for toy pieces
• US 4 (3.5 mm) circular/DPNs for clothes
• Optional: US 2.5 (3.0 mm) for snug ribbing on clothes

Notions & Tools

• Stitch markers (at least 6), scrap yarn
• Tapestry needle, scissors
• Polyester fiberfill stuffing
• Safety eyes 6–8 mm or black yarn for embroidery (use embroidery for children under 3)
• Small amount of black/charcoal yarn for nostrils and mouth
• Ruler or tape measure

Gauge (not critical but helpful)
Toy pieces: ~6.5–7 sts per inch in stockinette on US 3 with DK (dense so stuffing doesn’t show).
Clothes: ~6 sts per inch on US 4.

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Abbreviations & Techniques

• CO: cast on
• BO: bind off
• K: knit
• P: purl
• Rnd(s): round(s)
• St(s): stitch(es)
• PM/SM: place/snap (slip) marker
• Kfb: knit front and back (increase 1)
• M1L/M1R: make 1 left/right (increase 1)
• K2tog: knit 2 together (right-leaning decrease)
• SSK: slip, slip, knit (left-leaning decrease)
• [ ] x N: repeat instructions in brackets N times
• I-cord: knit cord on 2–3 sts

Skills you’ll use: working in the round on DPNs or with magic loop; simple increases/decreases; picking up stitches; duplicate-stitch embroidery; basic mattress stitch for tiny seams.

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Pattern: Donkey Plush

All toy pieces are on US 3 (3.25 mm) with DK yarn unless noted. Work in the round unless otherwise stated.

Feet (make 2) → continue as Legs

With MG, CO 8 sts. Distribute across DPNs or magic loop. PM for start of rnd.

• Rnd 1: Kfb around – 16 sts
• Rnd 2: K1, Kfb around – 24 sts
• Rnd 3: K2, Kfb around – 32 sts
• Rnd 4–8: Knit even 5 rnds – 32 sts (this forms the foot length)

Shape toe/ankle

• Rnd 9: K2, K2tog around – 24 sts
• Rnd 10: K1, K2tog around – 16 sts
• Rnd 11: Knit – 16 sts
  Stuff the foot firmly before the opening narrows further.

Legs

• Rnd 12: Kfb, K1 around – 24 sts (gentle calf)
• Rnd 13–22: Knit 10 rnds – 24 sts
• Rnd 23: K2tog, K2 around – 18 sts
• Rnd 24–32: Knit 9 rnds – 18 sts

Leave Leg 1 on the needle; break yarn on Leg 2 leaving a 10 in tail. You now have two legs of 18 sts each.

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Join for Body

With Leg 1 ready to knit:

• Rnd 1 (Join): Knit across 18 sts of Leg 1, CO 4 sts with backwards loop, knit across 18 sts of Leg 2, CO 4 sts, join to work in the round. PM at center back (between the two 4-st bridges). Total: 44 sts.
• Rnd 2–11: Knit 10 rnds even – 44 sts

Waist shaping

• Rnd 12: K9, K2tog around [4x] – 40 sts
• Rnd 13–16: Knit 4 rnds – 40 sts
• Rnd 17: K8, K2tog around [4x] – 36 sts
• Rnd 18–20: Knit 3 rnds – 36 sts

Add stuffing up to the waist.

Chest/upper body

• Rnd 21: K5, M1R, K4 around [4x] – 40 sts
• Rnd 22–26: Knit 5 rnds – 40 sts

Neck

• Rnd 27: K3, K2tog, K5 around [4x] – 36 sts
• Rnd 28: K2, K2tog, K4 around [4x] – 32 sts
• Rnd 29: K1, K2tog, K3 around [4x] – 28 sts
• Rnd 30: K2tog, K2 around [7x] – 21 sts
• Rnd 31: K2tog, K1 around [7x] – 14 sts

Stuff the body firm but squeezable. Add a little extra at the top so the head sits securely.

Head

We’ll increase quickly from the neck.

• Rnd 1 (increase from 14): Kfb around – 28 sts
• Rnd 2: K3, Kfb around – 35 sts
• Rnd 3: K4, Kfb around – 42 sts
• Rnd 4: K6, Kfb around [6x] – 48 sts
• Rnd 5–12: Knit 8 rnds even – 48 sts

Position eyes between Rnds 7–8, about 8–9 sts apart centered at front. If embroidering later, mark placement with pins.

Shape head top

• Rnd 13: K6, K2tog around – 42 sts
• Rnd 14: Knit
• Rnd 15: K5, K2tog around – 36 sts
• Rnd 16: Knit
• Rnd 17: K4, K2tog around – 30 sts
• Rnd 18: K3, K2tog around – 24 sts
  Start stuffing the head firmly, sculpting a gentle oval.
• Rnd 19: K2, K2tog around – 18 sts
• Rnd 20: K1, K2tog around – 12 sts
• Rnd 21: K2tog around – 6 sts

Break yarn, thread through remaining 6 sts, pull tight, and secure.

Arms (make 2)

• CO 8 sts with MG.
• Rnd 1: Kfb around – 16 sts
• Rnd 2–6: Knit 5 rnds – 16 sts (hand)
• Rnd 7: K2, K2tog around – 12 sts (wrist)
• Rnd 8–20: Knit 13 rnds – 12 sts (sleeve/upper arm)
  Stuff lightly (don’t overfill so arms drape nicely).
• Rnd 21: K2tog around – 6 sts. Cut yarn, draw through 6 sts and pull closed. Leave a tail for sewing to body.

Ears (outer 2 in MG, inner 2 in CR; worked flat)

Outer Ear (make 2)
CO 8 sts in MG. Work in stockinette (RS knit, WS purl).

• Row 1 (RS): K all
• Row 2 (WS): P all
• Row 3: K1, M1L, K to last st, M1R, K1 – 10 sts
• Row 4: P
  Repeat Rows 3–4 4 more times – 18 sts.
  Work 4 rows even in stockinette.
  Shape tip:
• Next RS: SSK, K to last 2, K2tog – 16 sts
• WS: P
  Repeat the last two rows 4 more times – 8 sts.
  BO knitwise leaving a long tail.

Inner Ear (make 2)
Work the same as outer ear until 16 sts (one less increase repeat). Skip the 4 even rows. Shape tip as above until 6 sts remain; BO. The inner ear is slightly smaller so it nests inside.

Assembly for Ears: Center the cream piece on the grey. With CR tail, whipstitch edges lightly to tack, then with MG tail, seam to the head later.

Muzzle (worked in the round; CR)

• CO 6 sts.
• Rnd 1: Kfb around – 12 sts
• Rnd 2: K1, Kfb around – 18 sts
• Rnd 3: K2, Kfb around – 24 sts
• Rnd 4–7: Knit 4 rnds – 24 sts (oval snout)
• Rnd 8: K2, K2tog around – 18 sts
• Rnd 9: K1, K2tog around – 12 sts

Cut yarn leaving a long tail. Lightly stuff just before sewing; keep it soft so it sits nicely on the face.

Tail

Make a 6–7 cm I-cord with 3 sts in MG. Knot off. Add a small NV tassel by lark’s head knotting 6–8 short strands to the tip; trim evenly.

Mane

Cut 20–30 short strands of NV (about 6–7 cm each). After assembly, you’ll latch them along the centerline of the head from the crown toward the neck, then trim into a shaggy fringe.

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Assembly & Finishing for the Toy

1. Arms: Position each arm so the top meets Round 22–24 of the body, approximately 7 sts apart across the chest. Stitch around securely with the arm tails using whipstitch or mattress stitch.
2. Ears: Pin ears at a slight outward angle, about 4–5 sts from the top seam on each side. Sew along the ear base and a little up the sides so they stand.
3. Muzzle: Center between the eyes, lower edge about 3 rounds above the neck. Stuff a pinch and sew around the edge, easing so it lays smooth.
4. Face embroidery (if using yarn eyes or for extra detail): With black yarn, duplicate stitch small horizontal dashes for nostrils on Rnd 2–3 of the muzzle, and a tiny “V” for the mouth. Add a couple of short stitches at the outer corners of safety eyes for expression if desired.
5. Tail: Sew securely at the back between the two leg joins.
6. Mane: With a crochet hook or tapestry needle, attach NV strands along the centerline. Knot each strand to itself (lark’s head). Trim to a cute tuft.
7. Final shaping: Distribute stuffing, roll the toy between your palms to even it out. Hide any ends inside the stuffing.

Your base donkey is finished! Next, dress it up.

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Pattern: Mini Sweater (removable)

• Work on US 4 (3.5 mm) with LG and WH.
• Knit body bottom-up in the round, then split for a simple crew neck; sleeves are picked up and worked downward.

Motif: Simple triangle repeat over 6 sts x 6 rnds (carry floats loosely). You can also knit it solid if you prefer.

Body

With LG, CO 44 sts. Join in the round, PM.

• Rib: (K1, P1) for 4 rnds
• Rnd 5 (setup for motif): Knit
• Rnd 6–17: Work 12 rnds of the triangle fair-isle with LG/WH (or knit plain LG if you want it easier). Keep floats under 1 cm. Maintain 44 sts.

Separate for armholes & neckline (worked flat):

• Row 1 (back start): K11, BO 2, K18, BO 2, K11.
  You now have Back 22 sts (center), Fronts 11 sts each.

Back:

• Work stockinette 6 rows even in LG.
• Shoulder BO: BO 7 sts at start of next 2 RS rows; BO remaining 8 sts straight across for back neck. Cut yarn.

Left Front (as worn):

• Rejoin yarn to one 11-st section. Work 4 rows stockinette.
• Neck shaping: On next RS, K to last 3, K2tog, K1 – 10 sts.
• Work 1 WS row.
• Repeat neck dec every RS 2 more times – 8 sts.
• Shoulder: BO 8 sts.

Right Front:

• Mirror the left front (use SSK at neck edge for symmetrical decreases).

Side/underarm seams: With LG tail, sew 2-st gaps closed at each underarm.

Neckband

With US 3 (3.25 mm) and LG, pick up and knit around the neckline approximately 36–40 sts evenly.

• Work (K1, P1) rib for 3 rounds, BO in rib.

Sleeves (pick up & knit downwards)

For each armhole:

• With US 4, pick up 22 sts evenly around the armhole.
• Rnd 1–8: Knit (or continue fair-isle for a band if you like).
• Rnd 9: K2, K2tog around – ~16–17 sts (if count doesn’t divide evenly, decrease to reach 16).
• Rnd 10–12: Knit 3 rnds.
• Switch to US 3, (K1, P1) 3 rnds, BO in rib.

We’ve matched the photo’s cozy fit with a straight body and gentle sleeve taper.

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Pattern: Shorts (removable)

Worked in the round on US 4 with GR.

Waistband

• CO 44 sts, join in the round, PM.
• (K1, P1) rib 4 rnds.
• Rnd 5–12: Knit 8 rnds even – 44 sts.

Divide for legs

• Leg A: K22, slip remaining 22 to holder. CO 2 sts (bridge at inner thigh). Join to work 24 sts in the round.
• Leg A Rnds 1–10: Knit 10 rnds.
• Rnds 11–12: Switch to US 3, (K1, P1) 2 rnds. BO in rib.
• Leg B: Return 22 held sts to needles, join yarn, CO 2 sts and knit 24 sts in the round.
• Work as for Leg A.

We keep them shorts-length like the image; knit more rounds for longer shorts.

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Finishing the Clothes

• Weave in all ends on the WS.
• Block lightly if using wool: soak, squeeze, and lay flat so the sweater’s colorwork relaxes and the ribbing lies neat. Avoid heavy blocking on acrylic.
• Dress your donkey: shorts first, then arms into sleeves, sweater over the head, and done!

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Helpful Tips for Beginners

1. Dense fabric matters: Using a smaller needle than the yarn’s ball band keeps stuffing from peeking through. If you can poke a finger through the fabric, go down a needle size.
2. Even stuffing: Add fiberfill in small wisps. Pack the feet and head firmer than the limbs; this helps the toy stand and keeps features defined.
3. Colorwork comfort: For the sweater motif, spread stitches on the right-hand needle every few stitches to keep floats relaxed. If stranded knitting feels stressful, simply knit the sweater in one color—the fit remains perfect.
4. Safety considerations: For babies/toddlers, embroider eyes instead of using plastic safety eyes. Stitch them securely with several passes.
5. Magic loop vs. DPNs: Use whichever feels easier. For tiny circumferences (arms, legs), a 32–40 cm circular with magic loop is very manageable.
6. Seam invisibly: Mattress stitch (purl bumps to purl bumps) gives invisible seams. Work a few stitches, then snug the yarn gently.
7. Stitch counts sanity check: If you lose or gain a stitch, fix it promptly—M1 to add, K2tog/SSK to subtract—at an underarm or back seam where it won’t be noticeable.

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Easy Variations

• Striped sweater: Replace the colorwork with 2-row stripes in LG and WH (no floats!).
• Overall shorts: Add two 18-st I-cord straps that button at the front.
• Different animals:
  1. Horse: Shorter ears, brown body, black mane.
  2. Zebra: Black/white body stripes (duplicate stitch), black mane and tail.
• Weighted feet: Pop a couple of stainless steel beads or a small pouch of rice inside each foot (well wrapped) before stuffing for a sitting toy that doesn’t topple.

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Styling & Care

Pose your donkey on a nursery shelf, gift it for birthdays, or use it as a gentle desk companion. The removable clothes invite imaginative play—consider knitting a second outfit in seasonal colors. Hand-wash cool with mild detergent, press in a towel, and dry flat. Comb the mane gently with fingers; trim any fuzzy ends.

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Troubleshooting FAQ (Beginner-Friendly)

My increases leave holes—what can I do?
Use M1L/M1R for nearly invisible increases: lift the strand between stitches and knit it through the back loop. Save Kfb for when a tiny bar is okay (like shaping on toys).

The head wobbles.
Pack a little extra stuffing at the very top of the body before you start head increases, and make sure you worked all the neck decreases. You can also run a securing stitch through the neck seam after finishing.

Colorwork looks tight.
Every 3–4 stitches, spread the stitches on the right needle before knitting the next one. This sets float length correctly.