What You’ll Make
You’ll crochet a small oval monster with a front “mouth pocket,” simple eyes, skinny arms and legs, a hanging cord, and a stuffed heart topper. The lips form a secure slit-style pocket that fits a key set or a couple of folded bills—great for school runs, gym lockers, or gift giving.
This project is worked mostly in single crochet with basic increases and decreases. If you can make a magic ring and count stitches, you’re all set.
Materials
- Yarn (Worsted/Medium #4 cotton recommended for durability)
- Body color: light green or lime (~30–40 g)
- Lips & cord: bright red (~25–30 g)
- Eyes (whites): white scraps
- Pupils: black scraps (or small felt circles)
- Optional: a little polyfill for the heart (a pinch)
- Hook: 3.5 mm (E-4) for a firm fabric. If you crochet loosely, use 3.25 mm.
- Notions & Tools
- Tapestry needle
- Stitch markers
- Scissors
- 1 small split key ring (optional, to attach keys at the bottom loop)
- Fabric/white glue (optional) to fix pupils
- Measuring tape
- Finished size: approx. 11–13 cm (4.5–5 in) tall body (not including cord/heart), but size varies with yarn and tension.
Gauge (not critical): ~16 sc × 18 rows = 10 × 10 cm using 3.5 mm hook in the round. Aim for a dense, non-holey fabric so small items don’t slip out.
Abbreviations (US Terms)
- ch – chain
- sc – single crochet
- hdc – half double crochet
- dc – double crochet
- sl st – slip stitch
- inc – increase (2 sc in same stitch)
- dec – invisible single crochet decrease over next 2 sts
- st(s) – stitch(es)
- MR – magic ring
- FO – fasten off
- RS/WS – right side / wrong side
All rounds are worked in a spiral unless stated. Use a stitch marker to mark the first stitch of each round.
Construction Overview
- Front Oval (Body Panel A) and Back Oval (Body Panel B) are worked separately.
- Mouth Pocket is created by attaching a Lower Lip and Upper Lip pieces to Panel A, leaving a slit between them.
- The Eyes are sewn above the mouth.
- Panel A and B are seamed together, leaving a small opening at the bottom for a key loop/leg start.
- Arms, Legs, Bottom Loop, Hanging Cord, and Heart are added last.
Working in flat panels keeps the pattern beginner friendly and the finished pouch stable.
Pattern
A) Body Panel A (Front Oval – Lime Green)
Round 1: MR, 6 sc into ring (6)
Round 2: inc around (12)
Round 3: (sc, inc) × 6 (18)
Round 4: (2 sc, inc) × 6 (24)
Round 5: (3 sc, inc) × 6 (30)
Round 6: (4 sc, inc) × 6 (36)
Round 7: (5 sc, inc) × 6 (42)
Round 8: (6 sc, inc) × 6 (48)
Rounds 9–16: sc around (48 each round)
Round 17: (6 sc, dec) × 6 (42)
Round 18: (5 sc, dec) × 6 (36)
Round 19: (4 sc, dec) × 6 (30)
Round 20: (3 sc, dec) × 6 (24)
Round 21: sc around (24)
FO leaving a long tail for sewing later. Flatten to an oval. Place a marker across the front to remember the centerline; this helps you position the mouth.
Note: If you prefer a shorter or taller monster, add or remove a couple of straight rounds (Rounds 9–16).
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B) Body Panel B (Back Oval – Lime Green)
Make exactly the same as Panel A through Round 21. FO; leave a tail for seaming.
C) Eyes (Make 2 Whites – White)
Round 1: MR, 6 sc (6)
Round 2: (inc) × 6 (12)
Round 3: sc around (12)
Sl st to the next st, FO leaving a tail for sewing.
Pupils (Make 2 – Black):
MR, 4 sc, pull tight, sl st to first sc, FO with short tail (or cut small 6–7 mm felt circles).
D) Lips – Lower Lip (Red)
The lips are slightly padded crescent bands. You’ll make two curved strips that are joined to the body only along their back edges so a pocket forms between the two lips.
Row 1: Ch 26. Working in the back bump of chains: sc in 2nd ch from hook and each ch across (25). Turn.
Row 2: ch 1, sc in first 3 sts, inc, sc 7, inc, sc 7, inc, sc in last 3 sts (28). Turn.
Row 3: ch 1, sc across (28). Turn.
Row 4: ch 1, sc 4, inc, sc 8, inc, sc 8, inc, sc 4 (31). Turn.
Row 5: ch 1, sc across (31). Turn.
Row 6: ch 1, dec, sc across to last 2 sts, dec (29). Turn.
Row 7: Repeat Row 6 (27).
Row 8: ch 1, sc across (27). Do not FO.
Lip Edging (for fullness): ch 1, rotate and sc evenly around the entire piece, placing 1–2 extra sc at each corner so it doesn’t curl (about 60–66 sts total). Sl st to first sc. FO leaving a long sewing tail.
This makes a soft, slightly arced band for the lower lip.
E) Lips – Upper Lip (Red)
Make exactly as Lower Lip Rows 1–8 + edging. FO with long tail for sewing.
Tip: If your lips seem too long or short for your oval, add or remove 2 chains at Row 1 for a custom fit.
F) Arms (Make 2 – Lime Green)
Arm Cord: ch 20. Sl st in 2nd ch from hook and each chain back to start (19 sl st). FO with tails for sewing.
G) Legs (Make 2 – Lime Green) + Bottom Key Loop
Leg Cord: ch 24. Sl st in 2nd ch from hook and next 18 ch (19 sl st), ch 6 to form a tiny foot loop, sl st in the 3rd ch from hook then sl st down remaining chains to the start. FO.
Make a second leg in the same way.
Bottom Key Loop (Optional but handy):
ch 10, join with sl st to form a ring; Round 1: ch 1, sc 12 around ring, sl st to join, FO with tail. This loop will be anchored between the legs or at the lower seam so you can clip on a small split ring.
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H) Hanging Cord (Red)
Method 1 (Simple Chain):
Attach red yarn to the top center of Panel A. ch 70–90 (choose length you like). Sl st back along the chain to the start for a sturdy strap. FO leaving a small tail to hide later.
Method 2 (I-Cord look with crochet):
For a thicker cord, ch 3, then work sc in back loop only of each stitch for the whole length; the strip naturally rolls.
I) Small Stuffed Heart (Red)
Make 2 Heart Halves and join:
Half A
Row 1: ch 2, 2 sc in 2nd ch (2). Turn.
Row 2: ch 1, inc in each st (4). Turn.
Row 3: ch 1, sc, inc, inc, sc (6). Turn.
Row 4: ch 1, sc 2, inc, sc 3 (7). Turn.
Row 5: ch 1, sc 3, inc, sc 3 (8). Turn. FO.
Half B
Repeat Rows 1–4 only (7). Do not FO.
Row 5 (Join the lobes): ch 1, sc 3, inc, sc 3 (8). Ch 1, rotate, sl st across to the top of Half A, ch 1, and sc around both halves to form one heart, placing 2–3 sts at the tip. Lightly stuff before closing. Sl st to first sc, FO with a long tail for sewing.
Sew the heart to the tip of the hanging cord.
Assembly & Finishing
1) Plan the Face
Lay Panel A flat (RS up). Place Upper Lip about 2–3 rounds below the top edge of Panel A and Lower Lip about 2–3 rounds beneath that, leaving a 1.5–2 cm (⅝–¾ in) gap between the inner edges of the two lips. Test with a key: the gap should be snug but accessible.
2) Attach the Lips (Create Pocket)
- Pin the Upper Lip first. Using the long red tail and a tapestry needle, whipstitch the back long edge only of the upper lip to the body (Panel A). Do not sew the inner lip edge—this is the mouth opening.
- Repeat for the Lower Lip, sewing its back long edge only to Panel A, aligned so the slit remains centered and horizontal.
- To make a deeper pocket, add a second line of hidden stitches along the outer curve of each lip, catching a couple of body threads—this tacks the lips down while preserving the slit.
3) Eyes
- Sew the two white circles just above the upper lip, touching or with a tiny gap for a goofy look.
- Stitch or glue black pupils slightly inward for that “smiling” expression.
- Optional: With black yarn, add a small backstitch smile line at each corner of the lips.
4) Arms & Legs
- Position Arms at the sides of Panel A, roughly level with the mouth. Stitch the inner ends to the body with a few firm passes.
- Position Legs 1–2 rounds up from the bottom of Panel A so they dangle freely after seaming.
5) Front & Back Seam
- Place Panel B behind Panel A, WS together, matching stitch counts.
- With lime yarn, sc seam around the oval through both layers.
- When you reach the very bottom, you may:
- Option A (loop opening): Insert the Bottom Key Loop between panels and stitch it securely as you seam.
- Option B (tiny gap): Leave a 1–1.5 cm opening if you’d like an additional slot for clipping a ring. Secure edges with extra stitches so it won’t stretch out.
- FO and weave in all tails securely.
6) Hanging Cord & Heart
- If you made the cord separately, stitch its base firmly to the top center of the monster (through both panels).
- Sew the heart to the free end of the cord. You can also pass the last chain through a bag handle and button the heart through a loop to anchor it.
7) Blocking (Optional)
Light steam-block the lips only (hover the iron; don’t press) to smooth the curves. Cotton behaves nicely and holds the shape.
How to Use the Mouth Pocket
Slide keys, coins, or folded cash between the upper and lower lip pieces. Because each lip is anchored only at the back, the opening naturally closes against the body, keeping items secure while still easy to access.
Troubleshooting & Beginner Tips
- Pocket too loose? Add 1–2 rows of sc to the inside edge of each lip or sew a short elastic thread invisibly along the inner edge.
- Pocket too tight? Move the lips a row farther apart, or use a larger hook for the lip pieces only.
- Wavy oval edges? Ensure you placed regular increases in early rounds and kept stitch counts accurate. Gentle steam helps.
- Crochet rolling or twisting cords? That’s normal; it adds character. If you want them flatter, replace sl-st cords with short sc rows (ch desired length; work one row of sc back).
- Child safety: Avoid small detachable parts for children under 3. Stitch pupils instead of gluing felt.
Customization Ideas
Colors & Themes
- Froggy Friend: Lime body, pink lips, and big white eyes placed slightly apart.
- Alien Buddy: Neon body, purple lips, add a third tiny eye in the middle.
- Holiday Gift: Red body, white lips, green heart; tuck in a small candy cane or note.
Size Adjustments
- Want a bigger pouch? Work the ovals up to 60–66 sts at the widest point (add rounds using the same increase pattern), and lengthen the straight section by 2–4 rounds. Enlarge the lips by adding 4 chains to Row 1 and echoing the same increase logic.
Extra Security
- Whipstitch a small lining rectangle (felt or fabric) behind the slit before attaching lips. This creates a pouch-within-a-pouch look and helps tiny coins stay put.
- Add a snap (hand-sewn) under one corner of the upper lip if you want a light closure without hardware showing.
Use It Your Way
- As a key keeper by the door: hang by the heart cord.
- As a bag charm: clip the bottom loop to your tote and keep metro cards in the mouth.
- As a gift card holder: tuck a note inside the lips and write a tiny message on a tag attached to the heart.
Care Instructions
Hand-wash in cool water with mild soap, reshape the lips gently, and air dry flat. Cotton yarn is durable and can handle frequent use without pilling.
Round-by-Round Recap (Quick Reference)
- Body Panels (A & B): MR6 → inc to 48 by Round 8 → straight R9–16 → dec to 24 by R20 → R21 sc (24).
- Eyes: MR6 → inc to 12 → 1 round even. Pupils: MR4.
- Lips (each): ch 26 base; shaping increases rows to 31 sts, minor decreases, border all around.
- Arms: ch 20, sl st back.
- Legs: ch 24, sl st back with small 6-ch foot loop.
- Bottom Loop: ch 10, join, sc 12 around.
- Cord: ch 70–90, sl st back.
- Heart: two small halves joined and lightly stuffed.
Keep this cheat sheet beside you while crocheting; it’s perfect for checking counts without scrolling.
Friendly Notes on Sizing & Yarn Choice
Cotton or cotton-blend yarns make the pocket more grippy so items don’t slide out. Acrylic works too, but the lips may springier—add the optional inner edge stitch row if needed. Switching to a 4.0 mm hook gives a slightly larger, softer pouch; a 3.25 mm hook makes it firmer and smaller.
Ethical & Safe Use
This free pattern is for personal use, teaching, gifting, and handmade sales in small batches. Avoid adding small detachable elements for babies and toddlers. When sharing online, please credit this tutorial so other beginners can enjoy learning, too.
You Did It!
Your “Kissy Monster Key Holder Pouch” is ready to smooch your keys and keep little essentials safe. Tag your makes with a fun name like #KissyMonsterPouch so other crafters can find inspiration—and enjoy customizing colors and expressions for every season.
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