What You’ll Make

The finished worm measures about 5.5–6.5 in (14–17 cm) from tip to tail with worsted yarn and a 3.5–4.0 mm hook. The hat is removable and shaped with easy rounds plus a trick to “pinch” the crown so it looks like a real cowboy hat.

If you’re brand new to amigurumi, this project is perfect: one main stitch (single crochet) worked in a spiral, minimal sewing, and fast results.

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Materials

Yarn (Worsted/Medium #4):

• Body: Light pink (≈ 20–25 g)
• Hat: Medium brown (≈ 12–15 g)
• Face details: A scrap of black (for eyelids/eyebrows)

Hook: 3.5 mm (E-4). If you crochet tightly, you can use a 4.0 mm (G-6); aim for a dense fabric so stuffing doesn’t show.

Stuffing & Structure:

• Polyester fiberfill (a small handful)
• Optional for poseable bends: 1–2 pipe cleaners/chenille stems or a length of floral wire wrapped with tape

Notions & Tools:

• Safety eyes 8–10 mm (2 pieces) or small black buttons/felt circles
• Stitch marker or scrap yarn
• Tapestry needle
• Scissors
• Straight pins or clips
• Optional: hot glue/fabric glue for felt pupils, blush/makeup for cheeks

Safety note: If gifting to a child under 3, embroider eyes instead of using safety eyes or buttons.

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Abbreviations (US Terms)

• MR – magic ring
• ch – chain
• sc – single crochet
• hdc – half double crochet
• dc – double crochet
• sl st – slip stitch
• inc – increase: 2 sc in the same stitch
• dec – invisible single-crochet decrease over next 2 sts
• st(s) – stitch(es)
• FO – fasten off
• BLO – back loop only

Work in a continuous spiral unless a round says to join. Keep a marker in the first stitch of each round.

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Size & Gauge

Gauge isn’t critical, but a firm fabric is best for amigurumi. If you can see stuffing through the stitches, go down a hook size. With worsted cotton or acrylic and a 3.5 mm hook, the tube below will fit standard 8–10 mm safety eyes proportionally.

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Pattern Overview

1. Worm Body: crocheted as a tube from the tail upward. Two easy ways to make curves:

• Beginner (quick): insert a pipe cleaner (wire) and bend after stuffing.
• No-wire option: add 1–2 short-row wedges along the tube; this builds gentle, permanent bends while staying soft.

1. Cowboy Hat: flat brim + crown in the round. A simple pinch and a few anchor stitches create the classic cowboy shape.
2. Face: safety eyes plus embroidered eyelids for that chill cowboy expression.

📌Thank you for reading the article.

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Step-by-Step Pattern (with Stitch Counts)

Part A — Worm Body (Pink)

Tip: If using a pipe cleaner, fold the ends inward to blunt them. You’ll insert it after Rounds 12–14.

R1: MR, 4 sc into ring (4)
R2: inc in each st around (8)
R3: sc 8 (8)
R4: (sc, inc) × 4 (12)
R5–R8: sc 12 (12 each round)

Short-Row Bend (optional; makes a gentle curve):
With the marker at the start of the round, sc 6, ch 1, turn, sc 6 back. Ch 1, turn, sc 6 again. Now place your marker back in the next live stitch and continue working in the round as usual. Those two little back-and-forth rows create a soft bend.

R9: sc 12 (12)
R10–R14: sc 12 (12 each)

If using safety eyes, place them between R13–R14, 2–3 sts apart. Don’t add the backs yet if you want to adjust the expression.

Second Bend (optional): Repeat the short-row wedge from earlier (work the 6-st mini rows) anywhere in R10–R14 to add another curve.

R15–R20: sc 12 (12 each) – light stuffing as you go; keep the top 2–3 rounds unstuffed for closing neatly.

Shape Slightly Narrower Head (optional):
R21: (sc, dec) × 4 (8)
R22: sc 8 (8)
R23: dec × 4 (4), FO. Weave the tail through the final 4 front loops and pull to close.

Prefer a flat top under the hat? Stop after R21 or R22, then weave the tail through front loops of all sts and draw closed—this gives a flatter “forehead” for the hat to sit on.

Wire method: Slide the pipe cleaner in before closing, then stuff around it lightly so the body remains flexible.

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Part B — Cowboy Hat (Brown)

The hat is worked bottom-up in two sections: crown (sides) and brim. BLO rounds create crisp shaping lines.

Crown

R1: MR, 6 sc (6)
R2: inc around (12)
R3: (sc, inc) × 6 (18)
R4: BLO sc 18 (18) – forms a subtle crease for the crown base
R5–R6: sc 18 (18 each)

For a taller crown, add one extra sc 18 round.

R7 (taper slightly): (sc, dec) × 6 (12)
R8: sc 12 (12)

Rim of Crown:
R9: BLO (sc, inc) × 6 (18) – this BLO round makes a step where the brim will flare. Do not FO.

Brim

R10: (sc, inc) × 9 (27)
R11: (2 sc, inc) × 9 (36)
R12: (5 sc, inc) × 6 (42)
R13: hdc around (42) – gentle flare
R14: (dc in next 2 sts, 2 dc in next st) × 14 (56)
R15: sl st loosely around to smooth the edge; FO and weave ends.

Cowboy Pinch: Pinch the front and back of the crown inward. Add two tiny tacks with matching yarn (or one hidden stitch through inside layers) to hold the dent. Steam lightly if you want the brim wavier; shape while it cools.

Optional brim support: Work R15 with fishing line or a thin 20–24 ga craft wire held alongside your yarn. Encasing the filament in slip stitches keeps the brim crisp.

📌Thank you for reading the article.

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Assembly & Finishing

1. Stuff & Shape the Body

• If using wire, insert and trim so the ends stop well inside the body. Fold 1–1.5 cm of each end to blunt, wrap with a bit of tape or yarn, then stuff lightly around it.
• If no wire, add a little extra stuffing to the back of each short-row wedge; this enhances the curve.

1. Close the Top
   Draw the tail through the front loops of the last round and pull snug. Flatten slightly if you want the hat to sit low on the “forehead.”
2. Place the Eyes

• Insert 8–10 mm safety eyes between R13–R14 (or roughly 2–2.5 in down from the top if you changed length), spaced 2–3 stitches apart.
• Snap on backs after you’re happy with the position.

1. Embroider the Eyelids
   With black yarn or embroidery thread, backstitch a short curved line above each eye for that charming, sleepy-cowboy look. Secure ends inside.
2. Add the Hat

• Pop the hat on the head. If you want it removable, leave it as is.
• Prefer a permanent hat? Put one or two tiny whip stitches on the inside of the brim to catch the top of the head. Invisible and secure!

1. Final Styling

• Gently bend the worm into a playful S-curve.
• Add a dab of blush to the cheeks, or embroider a small mouth line under one eye for extra expression.

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Photo-Free Troubleshooting (Beginner Help)

• Gaps in fabric: Use a smaller hook or tighter tension. Amigurumi should feel firm.
• Visible step when finishing the brim: Work the last slip stitches loosely and block the brim with a quick steam pass (hover, don’t press).
• Wavy brim too floppy: Add the optional fishing line/wire in R15, or switch R13 to dc and R14 to 2 dc in every st for a stiffer flare.
• Short-row confusion: If turning rows mid-round feels tricky, skip them and use a pipe cleaner; you’ll still get a perfect bendable worm.

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Variations & Creative Ideas

Quick Size Changes

• Chunky Cowboy: Use bulky (#5) yarn with a 5.0–5.5 mm hook. Keep stitch counts the same; you’ll get a plush ~8–9 in worm.
• Mini Keychain: Use DK (#3) yarn and a 3.0 mm hook. Stop the tube after R15 and attach a split ring to the back of the hat.

Personality Swaps

• Sheriff Wiggles: Add a thin black hat band (ch 22, sl st around crown) and embroider a tiny star badge on the side of the hat.
• Rodeo Queen: Make the hat in cream and add a contrasting band with a surface slip stitch in gold.
• Book Buddy: Sew a flat magnet inside the hat and one inside the belly; the worm will “hug” a metal bookend or fridge.

Different Faces

• Wink: Embroider one closed eyelid (a longer curve) and use a single safety eye for the other side.
• Kawaii: Place eyes farther apart and add small pink embroidered cheeks.

Educational & Gift Uses

• Pop your business card under the hat band when gifting at craft fairs.
• Pair the worm with a mini “adoption certificate” for kids’ parties.
• Great stash-buster: each worm uses very little yarn—perfect for leftover pinks and browns.

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Care & Safety

• Hand wash cool, reshape the hat, and air dry flat.
• If you used wire in the body, do not microwave or machine wash.
• Embroider features for babies and toddlers; avoid any small parts.

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Round-by-Round Cheat Sheet

Body (tube):
R1 4 • R2 8 • R3 8 • R4 12 • R5–8 12 • (optional short-row wedge here) • R9 12 • R10–14 12 • (optional wedge here) • R15–20 12 • R21 (sc, dec) ×4 = 8 • R22 8 • R23 dec ×4 = 4 → close.

Hat:
Crown—R1 6 • R2 12 • R3 18 • R4 BLO 18 • R5–6 18 • R7 (sc, dec) ×6 = 12 • R8 12 • R9 BLO (sc, inc) ×6 = 18.
Brim—R10 (sc, inc) ×9 = 27 • R11 (2 sc, inc) ×9 = 36 • R12 (5 sc, inc) ×6 = 42 • R13 hdc 42 • R14 (2 dc, inc) ×14 = 56 • R15 sl st around → FO. Pinch crown; tack to hold.

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Why This Pattern Works for Beginners

• One main stitch: 95% is single crochet.
• No complex shaping: increases and decreases only; optional short rows are clearly marked and can be skipped.
• Small, quick win: finish your first Cowboy Worm in an evening.
• Flexible finish: removable or sewn-on hat, wire or no wire—choose what fits your skill and supplies.

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Friendly Notes on Yarn Choice

Cotton makes a crisper hat brim; acrylic gives a softer, plush look to the body. If you want extra stitch definition for the hat, use cotton for the hat and acrylic for the worm—mixing fibers is absolutely fine. Choose colors you already have or explore dusty rose + caramel, bubblegum + chocolate, or peach + coffee for on-trend combos.